Mudge

Yeah, the general "rumor" is that gear drives at high RPM (NA) cars is hard on the valvetrain. If your car has a knock sensor, then dont use one or get rid of the KS. Its been done on an LT1 using a "silent" Peet Jackson gearset, still makes noise of course, brought the knock sensor into play, and was removed after a few months. The timing cover also had to be clearanced for it.

The LS1 has more potential, makes more power in stock form, but less people have done it. Its also a good bit more costly, and apperantly more difficult. Happy searching

Clifton, thanks for the tips. I know the brake thing, on the Camaro I definately would get brake fad (duh), but on the Z I dont yet have enough tire, to handle even my current brakes. I need a bias valve because the rear is TOO POWERFULL, they slide and there is no way I can stand on my brakes, steel lines, 195/60 -15x7" setup, 300 treadwear, not enough grip. Someone else with 225 wide Kumho V700s said he could stand on the brakes with no problem, but those tires blown mine away. 400+ HP would be crazy power, was thinking of a T3/4 hybrid, part of the reason is I need to start with something that will fit the stock manifold... Long term, sure more power and monsterous wheel/tires would be great, but also I dont want to put myself in a car that is faster than me, I made that mistake with the Camaro jumping to nearly 500 HP, and it really cripples a driver with my experience level. People who haven't been on a track will likely never understand that until they do, if you want to learn how to be fast, then put your butt in a slow car, and you WILL learn to carry the car around the track, because any screw up will hurt your times in a big way, and it will teach you the line. Otherwise, I just end up doing a drag race, with some crappy cornering between my next WOT run...

I dont know the T5 series of shifters, but for T56 stuff the Pro 5.0 is widely considered the best, without a doubt, for clean shifting. Not the shortest throw, but the cleanest, sounds like the best to me. They can be shaved down as well if one desired a shorter throw, or you can buy a "short stick."

Either way, depending on how they look, they seem to go for ~$100. I may be hunting for a set myself soon, will not know for another week though.

Most likely a trans cooler, and maybe an oil cooler.

Dale, do you mind letting us know how much you find the 6.0L for?

1988 LT option dropped and Z28 model dropped and replaced by IROC-Z. Total Production -88 IROC Camaros: 27,811. The base IROC motor (305 cid) had the TBI injection and dealership sticker price $17,076. Only 12,116 people ordered 350 IROC. B2L/L98 (350 Cid TPI V8) option for the CAMARO cost $1,045. Serpentine belt now on Camaro V-8's. Long-lived LG4 carbureted 305 replaced by the new LO3 throttle body injection 305 (170@4000 255@2400). All Camaro TPI motors bumped up 5 hp due to slightly higher lift/longer duration cam profiles, additional valve seat angle, exhaust port/exhaust manifold changes. 305 TPI powered cars on -88: 195@4000 295@2800. http://www.fbody.com/members/matias/camaro.htm I'm going to assume they got the 'good' 350 instead of the TBI 305(?)

The Camaro was TPI from 85-92 so the Cruiser should likewise be. There is some difference from 89-92 but not schooled on these engines, other than they make mean TQ from the long runner intake.

Thanks. Now I either need to sell my flat top shortblock, or find pistons, but that sounds like more trouble/cost than just grabbing a whole engine.

The comment when the RT/10 first came out, was "how does an all aluminum engine come in at 700 pounds..."

Since the cruisers later were getting what the Camaros were, I figured that they had the TPI option, guess not.

The 6.0L heads (iron block car), are rumored to flow like LS6 heads (same gutting ability). If you can get one reasonably priced I WANT TO KNOW because I would consider it! 36x cubes of LSx power! Heck yeah.

Cody, sorry to hear about your continued troubles I have heard some nasty shop stories, that really bites... Worst one so far is a few days ago, a local guy supposedly has injector problems on his 91 car, cost to replace/labor, $2,000 ! Obviously he is doing it himself, and buying a $100-$200 set of injectors.

I think the discussion was that they decided not to make it or something? I believe it would be ungodly expensive though, but a header would rock.

If this is a 240Z, you need a pump that can run injector PSI which I believe is 30psi in these cars. May want new fuel lines to boot, might even be neccessary, especially if your going to make power, compared to 130ish HP of a 240.

Yeah, he looked a bit nervous, but wow, 1980s flashback!

Wow, whats cheap? That would be an awesome swap.

watch the second guy http://media.ebaumsworld.com/index.php?e=robotdance.wmv

I like the 240Z more, but a 260Z was an almost-buy for me. I'd rather NOT deal with smog period, than try to carry everything over and certify it, much of that is just because I like HORSEPOWER. I want to put whatever stinking race cam in there I want.

Follow the posted links, but basically you'd just have to carry over ALL smog equipment from the donor vehicle, charcoal canister etc

I said that as SOON as I saw that pic LoL, looks like "the flame-r" is back!

Thats more what I thought Thankfully I can do my own, but Tunercat doesn't have OBD II support yet, I now hear MARCH, but I dont know (even if this is true) what will be supported first. It will be one heck of a fast car, no doubt!

If the bores check out, you wont need to re-bore it. There is a good chance a cleanup of the walls with a glaze breaker, and new rings/bearings/seals will be "just as good" as a real rebuild. I never added up all the parts but if you do it yourself and have the tools, I'd say ~$500. A fair number of people thrash on junk yard blocks just fine though, so if you think its fine, the walls look good, you can crack the oil pan and look at the bearings - if looks good, do with it what you will. Ultimately 120k is not that much if the engine was cared for and it hasn't been sitting for years and years.

To a point, especially if your going to pump out more power later. Sometimes stronger means heavier though too, but if your going for more later, now is the time, true. This is the page I was thinking of, not sure how much it would help. http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/ar/ar99928.htm DONT FORGET CamaroZ28.com if you need answers that is the place to be, or Jason Cromer in FLA, he knows his parts.