Mudge

IMH, not yet fully experienced opinion, the rear brakes stock are already too powerfull. Biggest advantage to disks in back is easier maintenance, but no parking cable? ouch

Sometimes stock computers have thier limits, alot of the time they can be worked around though. One of the biggest limits in my experience so far though is only RPM related, and in a turbo car thats probably not going to matter a bit. Going stand alone is usually so fargin costly though, tuning it yourself is the way to go. As for mail order stuff, with dyno data he should be able to do ok with it if hes worth his weight in beans, as for blind mail order tuning, that is a total crap shoot, some are happy with it some are not, potentially dangerous for a non-NA car though. Good luck with the car.

Dont be supprised if they warp or the welds go bad, or just plain rust through. Saving money is nice, but for only ~$200 I think thats a steal, because I am unfortunately used to $500+ header setups.

Looking at Tunercat.com I find that there are two seperate PCMs, I think RevB was a late 95 thing? 16181333 or 16188051 94 - 95 Y, F & B CAR 5.7L, LT1 (FLASH) (incl. 'Rev B') My 94 Camaro has 8051, I dont know for sure what the 1333 is, maybe thats the Vette. If you need a for sure answer, www.LT1Edit.com is a good place to ask, as best I seem to recall though that LT1 Edit would not work with the LT1 Vettes because of the master computer issue, but I could be wrong, I appologize for my poor memory.

I can't really comment on ring wear, which may well be an issue if this is going to spend much time on the street and not be torn down once a year (or whatever), but I know of 4" stroke cars doing 7k RPM just fine. I would think ultimately it depends on how much you care about wear and tear, but Grump has a ton more experience in this area, I can only comment on what I've seen, never built a 422/434 etc

Gas is about 6 pounds a gallon, although the above data says 6.9 pounds, hmm.

Even a first gen Camaro wont handle big ponies without a cage, they start twisting and eventually cracking the body. So, yes you need the cage at some point Probably the first thing you will notice is the doors start to get sticky.

Ok, got the car idling decently again, and able to stab the gas and have it return to idle instead of staying at that RPM and only slowing going back down. Measuring from the pivot rod, to the carbs, I found that each was off by 1/8" or so, so I see that the whole geometry is somehow wacked out to start with. Looks like a single nut in the pivot area on the furthest front carb could be the cause, but I didn't mess with it. What I decided to do, was back out the idle speed screws all the way, and measure as accurately as I could the distance between both, which was about 2 3/4mm. Once I did that and put the idle speed screws back into place (seated to the 2 3/4mm mark) the car started up fine, and idled just fine even at 600 RPM which most of the rest of the time would be impossible. I didn't let it heat up all the way to finish with the idle speed screws, but brought it to 120º or so, so on a later drive tonight I will set the final adjustment there. Hopefully I should pickup some main jets within a week, and be able to report in 10-14 days with, I hope some good news. I was getting very close to giving up and going for some SU carbs, when I read about them they have only 1 freaking needle/jet, sounds easy!

I think it was a mistake to ignore the main jets, after going through the book again and re-reading web stuff. Whats that saying, stupid is as stupid does? So, once I re-fix my idle, I'm going to work on the mains as my excuse for the remainder of the RPM.

I listed the link above, studs are already installed in the spacers.

It should not be exactly the same, because the LT1 Vette has a seperate, master computer. As for the PCM wiring itself, it should probably be the same. I have a pinout diagram of the PCM somewhere and they should be identical, the PCMs are the same part numbers so far as I know.

Most of solid gains are either high RPM extended use, or under the curve (low RPM), but they do make more top end power as well, its just not a huge amount. From what I can recall, a flat solid is about like a hydraulic roller in terms of performance.

Not really, you also need to look at the duration, which you've listed, which eventually will tell you total overlap which is what is going to bleed off cylinder pressure at low RPM. This is whats going to make that lumpy idle, aka crappy running but sounds so bad-ass. I didn't notice if you said roller or flat, but 235-245 for a solid IMO is "small time", you almost can't find solids that small, they should idle great at 900, maybe less if you wanted but I dont see a reason why.

Moby, if you are using Engine Analyzer or such, you can try to estimate by looking at the vacuum numbers it pulls. Most cam MFGs for cars, list either seat to seat, or .050 numbers, some bike guys use .040 or something? Anywho, the solid cam thing, they sometimes use a slower opening ramp to help with spring life, since solid cams are hard on springs. Generally you'll be doing valve lash every 5k-10k miles, and replacing them probably once a year if you play it safe, I've heard of 2 years though (dont know the mileage though either). Are you going to run oil restrictors? A solid cam is so tempting, but I really dont know that I'd want to take that step. A generic rule of thumb I've heard is that a solid will idle like a hydraulic cam 10º (.050) smaller but make power like 10º larger.

Silver, so far as I know, is not an easy 'color' to work with. Good luck with the project, I will probably be doing a Scheib job myself soon.

Sorry to see you 'go' Mike

Yep, prenup - knowing someone for 4 months isn't exactly enough to really know, and is it ever? Better safe than sorry.

If you thought that was bad... http://docmudge.tripod.com/Accident-NoClothes-13sec.mov

10.4:1 is not going to be a happy turbo engine, he should rebuild it first, 355 probably with forged pistons, the stock pistons are cast hypereutectics. Next problem, is figuring out how to tune the thing, because he has a 1 bar MAP sensor, there is a way around it with the stock PCM, but its going to take some time to get there. Your going to need EPROM burning equipment, and Tunercat, along with a cable of course. Without a seperate injector controller box, or DFI or other aftermarket setup, he will not be able to run above 50# high impedance injectors. Also, how much power are you looking at? Chances are the stock fuel pump is not going to do what you want, I say that especially since your looking at twin turbo instead of a single. TT kits can be had for about 4k for the LT1 engines. Your looking at a pretty big job, I like NA better, especially since the car is setup best for NA where Ford uses low compression setups, Chevy does not, in general.

Bob H I believe was looking into this, as there was a huge theft of about 20 intercoolers from a local yard in FLA? Maybe he will see this thread.

AFRs really should be ported, and not by AFR.

Looks nice, except for those doors, give me function not style.

Still playing with the carbs, today I took a look at noticed that the links were not the same length on the same side, they were off by about a centimeter, which is alot. So I started to fix that, and then the car wants to idle at 2500 RPM, fabulous Then I see why, the pivot point which attaches to the link is at an angle on one side, whoever put this together I have each carb pulling about the same amount of vacuum and am back to 50/50 jets, BUT the idle wanders up and down so I am just about fed up with carbs, damn I hate these things. So, nothing fabulous to report, just a bunch of stuff pissing me off Clearly I need an exaust gas analyzer or a color-tune. From there I'm guessing that the solution might be a 60 in the idle side which worked fine, and a 35-40 in the secondary idle side, but until that point, its all guesswork which is not very fruitfull.

Nice, I know that gas station too I'd rather have an "inneficient" 383 than pay $4.50 for gas though, once you tune an NA car you are done. Yes, call me lazy Len, I still want to know where that yard is, I want to get some stuff in a couple weeks hopefully

Mike, I could be wrong, but that kid looked middle age.