1vicissitude

Have any of you ever tried fitting the greddy style rb26 plenum onto a triple weber setup? The rb26 throttles have a DCOE flange if I'm not mistaken. At first glance it looks like it could work as a nice air box for the triples, but I'm not really sure if the spacing is correct.

24whp over the shorties is pretty good. That wide a change in the afrs probably means there was considerable power picked up across the rpm range. I wouldn't be too quick to judge them just off peak numbers. Good long tubes on an f body can cause some pretty severe afr changes as well when coming from the factory junk. That said, the collectors don't look to be the best. I'm sure a true 4-1 ,something like a burns, would yield further results. I really wish some pictures of their mounts would be released. Seems kind of weird to have a product like this and not make pictures or information available for people to view.

Nope. I think it must be one off.

Yeah, the bevel and radius on the inside really makes it look more finished compared to the zforce plank.

This has to be the nicest round tail light panel I have came across. Curious, does anyone knows anything about it?

Hrmmm, that is what I was afraid of haha. Although i found a picture olf the car at a different angle and I am not to sure I actually like the kit all that much. From the side it just looks like an aggressive 240zg styled car, from the front it looks very heavily boso styled, which I am personally not a fan of. I guess this side picture was just deceiving.

Any pictures or updates on the motor and trans mounts?

So I am quite sure this car goes without introduction to many of you zed heads, but I am curious if anyone has the details of this build saved anywhere? I have been to their website, but sadly the car has been turned into a totally over the top boso car. http://mizuno-works.com/ I am mostly curious about some of the body parts used on the build. The rear spoiler looks kind of like the Marugen Shoukai or IMSA 3pc, but it appears to be at a more of a laid back angle. I have seen this now on two cars, the other black with corvette lights. I think the spoiler further laid back looks worlds nicer than either of the ones I previously mentioned. Next, the flares. They look styled after the ZG flair, but are much better shaped and the front doesn't look disproportionate like the traditional ZG flare does. I dislike how traditional front ZQ flares are so shallow they always have fender gap, and how at the top of the arch in the wheel well it just looks unshapely. While these on the green car are not perfect, the arch seems slanted towards the front of the well, they look much better in my opinion. Lastly, the lip for the Gnose. I have seen a few JDM cars with beautiful lips on the bottom of the Gnose, but I have no idea who makes any of them. I strongly dislike the IMSA style lip, even though I have seen them cut up to be slightly less offensive. They just ruin the clean understated beauty that the Gnose posses. I have seen a few smaller simpler lips for the Gnose that help to lessen the Gnose's overbite, like the one on this green car, but have never seen them for sale or know who makes them. So basically, are these one off pieces, discontinued, or are they just made by small obscure JDM shops that are hard for us in the U.S. to track down? I have been checking places like RHDjapan and yahoo.jp auctions, but I have yet to find anything that matchs these profiles. I am hoping those of you who are well versed in the JDM s30z scene can help shed some light on this for me.

Yeah it looks decemt, the trans mount looks pretty stout with its multiple anchor points. Only downside is it looks like the exhaust needs to run low past the trans mount with no provisions for it. Maybe oval exhaust pipe will be a workable solution?

I spoke with whoever runs their facebook page. CXracing is also working on a set of longtubes and a driveshaft for a complete kit. If it fits right, should be a great value. Their 240sx kit with an aluminum oil pan, driveshaft, engine and trans mount, and longtubes is only $1,500. That is a heck of a deal. Their products have been hit or miss though. Someone would have to be the ginea pig.

So I have been reading into custom piston for a bit now. Trying to asses the cost- to-benefit ratio of pursuing such a build, and then i just came across this. It's a mold kit for the combustion chamber that uses a 3d scanner to make a model of the piston. http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/metalcutting-machining/racing-create-custom-pistons-243247/ Now I had been planning on using a p90 head skimmed the traditional 2mm, but this combustion chamber molding has caught my interest. Has anyone gone through the process of this? Any of the wiser people on here have insight on the benefits of having a perfectly shaped piston head vs the typical flat top shaved head combo? Would creating pistons like this for an unshaved p90 have benefits? Higher detonation resistance? More efficient combustion? More power?

Pretty cool stuff. Although if you are interested in Kameari parts I have noticed if you order through places like rhdjapan the parts are much more affordable than going through other better known US sources of their parts. Here the spl head is only $4,156.47 haha http://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-l-type-spl-cylinder-head-upgrade-camshaft-pistons-springs-l6.html

Great ideas so far. What about finding the optimal place for a hood vent? If you could locate a good low pressure zone on the hood, a proper extractor could be very helpful in reducing lift. If the location ended up being behind the radiator, a nice shrouded exit behind it under the hood feeding the extraction vent would be a nice addition. Should be easy enough to whip up with the kydex or abs. Thinking something a la c6r. As far as the flat under tray goes, have you seen this DIY attempt? With the plastic rain gutter he ended up adding it was very effective, simple by design, and the wear edges were easily replaceable. A great home brew IMO. http://www.timeattackforums.com/forums/aero-dynamics/4604-flat-floor-ideal-height-introduction-my-mk2-golf-aero.html I agree a nice wing with spoiler would be nice. Hard to beat a nice straight trailing edge with a gurney flap. I would start with a simple piece of aluminum on the trailing edge of the car attached by hinges with turn buckles to support the edge of the spoiler. This way the AOA is easily tested and changed. Different lengths could be pretty easily swapped out as well. I assume due to the gas tank location on a s30 it would be best to have the diffuser hanging out past the rear of the bumper by a foot or two to allow a decent extension and room for the proper AOA. This would also dictate a longer spoiler, and for the wing up rights to be longer and laid back some. Also, have vortex generators been tested for flow separation over the hatch? This could really help the aforementioned wing + spoiler + diffuser combination. Knowing where the separation occurs would be also benefit where to mount the spoiler. If the air is already separating by the end of the window on the hatch, mounting the spoiler right under the windows edge should be better than at the end of the hatch.

Seriously, those flares are awesome. I'm not even a fan of any of the OTS flares, they all are disproportionate in one way or another. These are perfect. I'm not even a fan of large wheels on these cars, but your flares have me rethinking everything. Great work. The dash upholstery is looking mighty fine too.

Wow had no idea cutting was involved. Cool video. Thanks for sharing. Although I have a 240z and prefer the 260z lights. I don't think I'd let myself cut sheet metal for them though. I just prefer the chrome bezels. Wonder if 280s would fit with the 240 shroud? Who needs reverse lights anyways!

Oh wow, that's not bad for cutting + welding the hubs and installing camber plates. Didn't realize they were down here. Thanks guys. update: Well for Mckinney to install the megan kit it's $900, paint not included. Humph. $2100 for megans hurts my head lol. I'd feel like a fool paying nearly the same for Megans as koni race + GC combo. Not even comparable. Guess it's time to buy a welder and start practicing.

Ah, well I seem to have been totally mistaken, the prices on the site seemed misleading. Either way, as Johc said himself, it is irrelevant now. Being that the Porsche shop bought them out and they now bill at $120 an hour, I can't imagine that being an affordable solution anymore. Again, sorry if it seemed like I was stepping on your toes Johc. Just trying to find a affordable solution and the prices on your site (now old site??) scared me away. BTW for anyone interested, THmotorsports has the 8610s for $179.38 with free shipping, so with ~$20 gland nuts = $800 koni 8610s. Plus they are in IL, not even sales tax for us out of staters. I also understand just taking this to be done by some random guy with a welder is a bad idea, and I saw that thread with the horrifically shady job done. This is why I started the thread, to see suggestions from southern CA residents about where they had their work done. I get the whole Beta or bust mentality, specially with Johnc providing such a wealth of information to the board, but surely people in CA have used other fabricators as well, right? There are a lot of talented fabricators out here in our state, I find it hard to believe the only suggestion is Beta who isn't even really in the same game anymore. Of the replies Johnc and mutantz the only people out here in CA from the looks of your profiles, can i get some input from people actually out here? Would seem a lot more relevant.

Well I've been quoted similar from blackbird fabworx on the miata cage. Take it with a grain of salt. My only point was from the prices listed on the site (now I know they don't matter anymore) I'm positive there are places that do sectioning cheaper, t3 is an example. I have no intentions of knocking your shop Johc. If I were looking on turning this car into something competition worthy you would be the no brainer. In my experience paying a niche race shop to do basic work is the expensive way to go about it. Even paying $2,000 to get some $800 OTS konis into the car is hard to choke down, I see a $4,400 price and I'm expecting ASTs, Penskes, or Ohlins. I know you're a well respected knowledgeable guy in this community, and I totally get that. I meant no offense. I'm just looking for an affordable shop that I can have some camber plates welded on.

Maybe it does, looking at the list I don't see it. I'm just saying its like going to a ferrari mechanic for an oil change. Surely someone cheaper is capable of it. If anyone knows that someone, please let me know. If not, in the mean time I'll just start calling fab shops.

OldAndy- True, that is always an option. I have always wanted to learn. However, this will probably be my only welding prohect in the foreseeable future. I'm not looking to get it done for free by any means. Hope I'm not giving that impression. Blue- I fully intend to pay, just not absurd prices. I mean for $2,500 I could have had a baller 10pt cage made for my miata, $2,500 is not chump change. I'm not planning on buying the beta package. My whole point is if beta charges that much just for sectioning, I don't even want to guess how much it would cost for four 4 camber plates. I'm assuming the total package is more than my rust free well running z cost. I agree I just need someone to weld, which is why I asked here. Seeing if anyone from Socal had experience or any leads. I don't want it to turn out like that other guys a from a weeks ago. So if anyone knows a welder who has done this type of job before, please let me know.

I by no means intend to step on any toes, I'm aware of Beta and JohnC, but $4,400 for essentially the same thing I can get through t3 for $1700 after core exchange is not something I'm willing to pay for. I just don't see how $800 worth of Konis and 4 sleeves/hyperco springs equates to $4,400 before installation of camber plates. I mean realistically speaking thats like $2,500 in labor for just strut sectioning. My pockets don't run that deep and I don't think most normal fab shops would charge anything near that for strut sectioning. I was hoping for other suggestions. I'm not looking for full race car development, just coilover installation.

Hey guys, sorry if this is the wrong section. I didn't see a regional so I figured I'd post it here. So I am wanting to purchase a coilover setup, but I cannot weld or fabricate. I was just going to order the techno toy tuning set, but then realized I'm still going to need some place to weld the camber plates. This leaves me wondering since it will be at a shop already should I just buy the Koni struts and Ground control sleeves and have the shop do the whole thing? What have you guys done in the past that can't weld? How much should I expect to pay for strut sectioning and camber plate installation? I know this can change greatly shop to shop seeing as beta sells essentially the same coilover set for twice as much as T3. I'd greatly appreciate some prices for a point of refference. Does anyone have experience or know a shop that isn't ungodly expensive for strut sectioning and camber plate installation in the southern CA area? Or do any of you guys do work like this on the side?

I wonder if using a cone on a 6-1 collector would help resolve the issue of the collector having too much volume. Could be an interesting setup.

Well, it was the battery after all. Lesson learned, don't trust the autozone battery test. Thanks again for any input.

Well the Optima would read steady voltage on the miata's VDO volt gauge, would start it very strongly, and on the AEM EMS everything was also steady. I usually had it on a trickle that had an auto cut-off. Unfortunatly I can't test on this car anymore because the motor is dismantled. I have not tried another battery though. I was planning on buying one when it tested dead, but instead the positive test just left me puzzled. I pulled it straight out the car when it wouldn't crank anymore and brought it in for testing. I was 100% sure it would fail because it seemed like it was completely dead at the time of the test, but it came back ~12.87v. The battery ground and positive cable are 2 awg, look pretty new too. A lot of stuff in the bay has been replaced recently, I can tell just by the condition of the parts. The car has never been a garage queen so the newer appearance of a lot of misc parts leads me to believe a lot has been changed out. Albeit, the history of the car is largely unknown to me. Other than the carfax there was a language barrier between the previous owner and myself so I couldn't harass him over too many details. It seems to be firmly grounded. (this was my first guess after the battery didn't solve anything) I'm thinking of replacing the starter and cables anyways, it's cheap enough to be nearly inconsequential. More of an annoyance than anything. This way i can reaffirm all the connections as well and clean everything. I just wanted to double check there isn't something else that could be the cause of this. I suppose I can yank the battery out of the Accord and swap it in, but in all honesty I'm worried that there is some sort of short or something. Last thing I need is having all my cars stuck haha. (plus that darn battery was just replaced under warranty, it's a 12' on lease) I appreciate the replies so far fellas. Thanks.