1vicissitude

Definitely interested razzmuss. Please do post up progress.

Achillies ATR-K will also be offered in 225/50/15. Also, 245/45/15. 140tw with target performance a r888. 245/45/15 are $155 each.

98blackbell, did you remove the factory brake valves on the car? The NP valve and the rear prop valve? I assume that can't be good to have the pressure go through so many divisions. Could that be the issue?

Since the day I purchased my car the brakes have been questionable. I have very limited pedal travel and the brakes lock up 75% with very little effort and travel. I'm inclined to think they don't lock up all the way, but I never get the chance to push this because the car stops so quickly from the quick engagement. When I slam the brakes I can feel the front rotors slipping, granted to "slam the brakes" is like .75" pedal travel. I was planning on overhauling the entire brake system when I install my t3 wilwood front brake set. I discovered today that my car actually has a bm57 z32 master cylinder installed, and my booster is so large it is touching the clutch master (assuming 10"). There a number of issues with the install. - F and R off the brake master do not land at the np valve where they do stock, I believe the PO has this backwards. This also explains why I don't think I'm achieving 100% lockup, the rear is biased too heavy because front/rear are swapped. - The bm57 has an integrated prop valve if I'm not mistaken. That means I need to delete the np valve and the rear prop valve, right? Do I just replace these with distribution fittings? - Is the bm57 z32 bmc and larger booster even a good choice for the Toyota calipers I have at all 4 corners right now? Thanks Car is a 72 240z, Toyota disk swap all 4 corners, z32 bmc, 10" booster.

Joe, Do you make a CV kit for the r180? Could you please PM me the cost. Thanks

Will any US vendor be stocking the race and race sport header?

Yeah, that's about twice what I see them selling for locally. No thank you.

Hey guys I'm looking to buy a stroker crank. I'm located in Southern California. Thanks -Robert

Just wanted to point out, you have something backwards. The p90/p79 are the short valve heads, hence why when they are shaved and cam tower shims are used you install the longer valves. Ferrera still makes the shorter valves you need.

You don't have to spend 10k at Rebello. If you already have your carbs taken care of a street 3.0 build will come in right around the 6k mark. I was quoted around 8,900 for a 3.2 with me providing the stroker crank and engine, this included carbs. Ofcourse you can spend more, like for a full race prep. Even the cheapest build from Rebello will likely surpass CA datsun's best. They have the worst reviews ever, guy sounds like a crook. Many members in my group have strong feelings of hate towards Al, and we are local. Can't imagine how hard he'd screw people that are paying for freight when it takes him 4 tries to get an engine right, guy won't even cover shipping when they screw up.

Not super helpful, but I think you are correct. Even borla lists different bore spacing after 50mm throttle size is passed.

There are places that will turn down Nascar take offs, but in the machining process all the coating is taken off. An uncoated ti valve is not going to last long at all. Do you plan replacing valves every couple races? We're talking maybe 1000 miles... https://m.facebook.com/jarvisperformance Pvd coating are used on ti valves to increase wear. This coating is too hard for regular valve seats. This is why beryllium copper is used, it will survive the abuse of the hard coating. Super expensive and the dust made when grinding is extremely deadly. A very expensive proposition...

Heavier? Darn, usually custom means their lighter than replica cast wheels... Still these in 16x9.5 would be sexy.

There are revalved p30s. Are you open to coilovers? Feal suspension will make you a custom set with swift springs and tailor the valving to your needs for $1400 without top mounts. Odi has made a great reputation for himself revalving and building rally and dirt bike suspension. Plus as a driver he is doing very well in Formula drift. He really knows his stuff, coilovers of this level are usually much more expensive. His business started and thrives on him revalving other brands suspension for increased performance. Then there is always the really pricey stuff. AST said they would make me a custom set for 3000. Anyone of the high end brands like Penske, HVT, Motion Control, etc can whip you up something very nice. Just bring bags if money.

I have to agree with this. The only car I know of running 12:1 on pump (Bryan Blake) is also running ITBs and a standalone. Complete control over timing and fuel, along with the much better flow and atomization with the modern EFI, I'm sure has a lot to do with his success. (and not to forget the very tight quench he runs .022" iirc and a bigger cam than most street cars ~.590") Will be great if you pull it off, general wisdom is like 10.5 on pump from most I have spoken with. Your cam will be a huge determining factor in this working or not, how is way above my general knowledge but a good cam grinder should be able to juggle cylinder pressures to help avoid detonation. Getting that engine tuned with carbs sounds like awfully long and expensive dyno session...

I'm really liking the combo with the Cusco bar visually. I'm curious which is more rigid, the flat Cusco with its two bends or the straight round t3 bar... my assumption is the straight t3 bar. I really like this design. I think the tabs are welded to a more rigid part of the firewall. http://www.bryanf.com/240Z/images/Engine-Left-Side.jpg

Not to take away from the roller rockers... But what about coatings for the cam journals and rockers? Certain dry film coatings help to retain lubricants and aid in friction reduction. Anyone ever try anything?

After spending 10k on this head (assuming that's the final cost), what's another 3k for a fully counterbalanced crank? It can built to Rev to whatever in this price bracket.

I am assuming these are going to be way out of my budget, but please do post up when you hear back. VERY curious how much a set would cost and how well it has been tested. I find it both shocking and worrisome something so awesome hasn't been blowing up the forums...

Never seen this before, any info on them? Didn't see anything on the site.

Thanks dreco So it's 70% stiff and kinda harsh on the street? Does it get more comfortable on lesser settings? Sweet car BTW

Interesting. These guys made a roller rocker setup for the BMW m20. http://racehead.com.au/products-page/bmw/bmw-m20-roller-cam-conversion-kit/

I have been curious if there are any nice interior bits made for these cars. I'm very familiar with the Japanese eunos roadster aftermarket (miata) and there is a plethora of beautiful interior bits from all over the world. Is anything made like this for the s30z? This stuff is pricey, but some of these parts rival fine jewelry. I can'tell help but think there has to be an ultra niche parts builder for this platform. Pics for examples and inspiration.

Thanks slowpoke. I wish you knew your spring rates, that sounds like what I'm after.

I'm starting this thread to see if I can muster up some feedback on the BC coilovers that recently came to market. The thread for their creation doesn't really have any installed reviews. Could those who have installed the coilovers please share what rates you went with how the ride is so far? Thanks