1vicissitude

+35 okay. That makes a LOT more sense. You need negative offsets, or crazy wide wheels. Hop on the site willtheyfit.com It allows you to visualize how offset and width effect your fitment compared to your starting setup. You are going to have to go very wide, low offset, or a mix of both. Just remember, when width changes so does the measured offset. If you widened your 8.5" wheel, 12.7mm would extend in each directIon off wheel center, so the offset would then be +47.7mm. Or if you widened the outer lip only an inch, the offset would be reduced by 25.4mm, so it would then be +9.6mm. For example, the 17x9.5 -20 offset Rota I mentioned are 67mm further out to the fender than your setup now. With 275s that might not look too bad and wont break the bank.

Wait, a 18x8.5 -35 wheel is a half inch from the strut? People run x9" 0 offset wheels all the time, why is yours so close to the strut? That is ~42mm closer to the strut than yours. Somethings not right. It just doesnt add up. Are you sure your wheels are negative 35 offset? Do you know how to measure a wheels width and offset properly? A 18x8.5 -35 would need a big stretch and camber to fit stock fenders. However, they sit about the same as the ever popular Rota wheels in 17x9.5 -20. Upfront a 255 is just barelly poking out a zg flare with this size. If the YZ kit is truly only 3 or even 4 inches, I just dont see how your measurements are adding up. That said I have no experience with the kit, it looks huge though.

Sorry if this comes off a simple dumb solution, but if droop is your problem it sure looks like you could lower the car quite a bit. Ofcourse the maximum droop limitation will still be there, but if the car was lower there would be more travel before full extension. Curious, are the Konis you are running the longer or shorter ones? If I am not mistaken isn't there a longer version beside what people commonly section struts for? At your ride height, maybe that would be more ideal.

Wonder what the Zspecialist alt is from? Doesn't sound like they modified anything on it.

Thats what I was thinking, but I think the sutble z fender comes off the car a bit different. Hard to tell in the pic.

That trust header has surprisingly small primaries. Not sure I'd go that route on anything but a nearly stock motor.

Curious, is a 88.5mm bore good to 600+ hp? Hasn't there been issues with high hp big bore builds before on here?

R3VO- are those rear zg up front? Also, what size tire?

Just thought I'd update this. So I have emailed brandcarparts and the ebay seller selling these kits, no reply on all accounts. I emailed Stagg directly about the kit, no reply either. I emailed Vogtland about the spring rates and they denied having any springs for Datsuns period. Rather annoying... if Vogtland doesn't officially make datsun springs then wtf are these things? Some sort of knockoff?

These are universal, notice how there are no mounting screws?

At that price point, AST had quaoted me ~$3000 for a custom set made specifically for the 240z. Too rich for my blood, but in all honesty it's a pretty good deal.

I have always wondered if one of those big grills would work. Is that an aftermarket or OEM? Would have never thought to try these GMC grills because of the huge GMC emblem. I want a grill like a ~1965 riviera on a Z.

Is there a bar across the rear strut towers as well? I can't help but think that would make a notable difference.

I emailed them for some measurements. I do know they have adapters for various sized shafts. I am curious if it would work with spring/shock combos, and exactly how much lower they will make the car over the stock insulators. One down side, how on earth do you adjust camber when they are installed?

It is a darn shame we don't have bolt-in a aftermarket solution yet. My stupid rack is worn at center so the wheel kind of floats when driving straight. Afraid to buy refurb because the gears are NLA, so there is a good chance i'm going to end up with another wandering rack.

So i was scouring ebay for datsun related stuff like I normall do, and found these camber top hats. I am curious if anyone has tried them. $149.99 for bolt-in no modification needed is kind of nice. Looks like they would lower the car some too. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MK1-PillowBall-Bearing-Strut-Upper-Mount-For-Coilover-Kit-Mounts-Plates-240Z-/161203739866?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A240Z&hash=item25887ddcda&vxp=mtr

Pics of the cage? Anything forward of the firewall? I am guessing of course, but I assume a lot of the torsional movement is happening towards the front of the cabin and after the firewall.

I love reading Peter's posts, but have yet to see this site you speak of. Would you care to either post it or pm me with the url?

Saw the post in the wheel tire thread. I really like the blue car, it looks great and I am sure it is a ton of fun. I am surprised you got the 16x8.25 0et to fit with 245/45/16 with a shock/spring combo, did you have to modify anything else to fit? How much clearance does it have with the strut?

I emailed a couple sources about the spring rates, I will post them up once somebody answers. Edit: Disappointing. I have emailed brandcarparts, Stagg, and an ebay vendor selling this kit and not a single reply about the spring rates. Not even an acknowledgment, weird.

Wow -20 all around? Thanks for posting, I was dying to know. I posted about your car a page ago haha.

Well it is used mostly on fuel injected forced induction motors. The forced induction benefits from the reduction in intake air temps and denser air, which shouldn't be an issue in your carb'd N/A car. I know it is often said "meth/water injection is like running higher octane fuel" but this is a gross over simplification of what is taking effect. Personally i don't think you will notice much difference, and I certainly wouldn't run aggressive timing with all faith in the meth/water to keep it together. Parts and pumps fail, it also just might not work as well as you think. With those carbs and manifold I personally don't like the idea of spraying meth/water, they just don't have the atomization that a good set of injectors will. I would feel uncomfortable with the possibility of there not being a great mixture of fuel/water/meth before the combustion cycle. The company "Devil'sOwn meth injection" has a message board that would probably be of better help to you. They sell great parts for good pricing and the admins on that board offer tech help. There is also a ton of more technical information regarding meth/water injection on there. Great resource. Edit: side note, even if it did work well enough is the price of a kit ( $500+ ) and the cost of the water/meth refills really worth the hassle? You run through tanks pretty quick. Also, the controllers I have seen are either TPS based or Map/maf. Spraying all the time will be much more expensive than just buying premium fuel. Have you thought about mixing e85 in your tank or setting up a EFI system like a megasquirt? E85 will raise octane easily and cheaply, programmable EFI will allow you full control over your ignition to avoid detonation.

What are are you trying to achieve with the meth/water injection?

I really don't see you selling an unassembled motor for 5k out right. That is not far off from buying a ported 3.0 stroker with a good cam right from rebello (which would end up being a much nicer engine built by one of the best), or if someone wanted to cheap out datsunparts even has a stroker with a .490 lift cam built for $3,700 on ebay right now. Part it out piece by piece. Should be easy enough to price it all out with a bit of research.

Used crankshaft depot ones in my miata, so have tons of others. I've seen them take over 400whp in a 1.8l 4 cylinder without issue. They are fairly well balanced too. Just make sure to get the measurements and double check they'll work. Sometimes the description in the title isn't 100% accurate.