JoeK

Back from paint

Funny. When 2020 went to hell, I thought I’d at least get a lot done on the car. But no. Instead I just spent all my spare time playing Warzone, a video game. I haven’t touched the car in over a year, but 3 days ago I decided to get back at it. Driver side rear fender now cut and welded for ZG flare. Feels good to be back at it. Of course I’m also tasked with some big home improvement projects over the summer, but hoping to get some momentum picked up on the project. Would like to get it off to paint soon.

If your in California, be sure to get a 1975 or older S30. Otherwise you’ll have to deal with smog inspections. While there may be ways around that, it can get old. Always start with the best car you can afford.

Mine looks exactly the same. I guess I’m one of those that didn’t notice. My car isn’t particularly low and the end links aren’t getting any shorter either. Guess I’ll add some spacers, anyone think 1/4” thick will be enough?

I finished mine recently. I thought the hardest part was figuring out the wiring for the steering column combo switch. That the headlights are negative interior didn’t help things but I just reversed that and ran the power through the switch. Getting one of those laminated wiring diagrams for your year car will really help as well.

Thanks for the tip. Here is a Rockauto link https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2001,mustang,4.6l+v8+dohc,1372643,electrical-switch+&+relay,back+up+lamp+switch,4240

For a ‘71

Anybody happen to have a fairly clean passenger side front fender, in the SF Bay Area?

That Sikky part looks like it would fit if I put it on before the trans was in the car. Now it looks a really tight, but very tempting to try it. Of course, the next is option is as the man from Idaho says, a switch in the dashboard or center console. Ofcourse, the switch is crazy easier too, since at this time my wire to the reverse lights is inside the cabin.

Is there a way to make the backup lights work? ‘71 240z with LS1 and T56 and JCI mount. The reverse sensor is too close to the tunnel for the plug to fit in it. Am I missing something?

Mostly see electric power steering on Z’s

Looking through my build thread here, it’s looks like I have added much of what I’ve been doing. Thought I’d toss up a pic of my exhaust. It’s dual 2.5” to a single 3” to a single Spintech muffler. Now that it’s running I’m pretty happy with how it sounds. Also did a wiper motor upgrade. And did some traveling in Europe with the family as well as some camping trips in the vintage trailer.

Success. Or at least a ton better. I didn’t have anything on the vacuum port at the rear of the intake, below the MAP sensor. Was throwing code P0108 which is the MAP sensor circuit so I put my finger over that port and it smoothed out. https://youtu.be/-lIyYaD96pE I believe my egr cover is leaking a lot of air in, which is causing the big air noise in that area and likely the still rough idle. Increasing throttle is slow and stumbles a little still, which would also make sense if a leaking egr cover. But overall I’m pretty darn thrilled, and have some new motivation to get her on the road. Still a long way to go for that but the light is bright at the end of the tunnel.

Thanks for the advice. I wish it were that simple. I did have it plumbed with the corvette filter/regulator originally but figured out what your talking about and reconfigured it. I am retaining the regulator in the fuel module and using a regular straight filter. I have a tee right before the filter and go back to the return line. This didn’t make much sense to me but I understand now that the regulator is actually on the return line on the module so anything over the 58psi blows through. I did order a fuel pressure gauge and should be able to put it in tomorrow, depending on when the Amazon truck shows up. Maybe putting the return loop after the filter would ensure I’m not losing any pressure to the filter.

Got started, though it runs terribly. A couple weeks back I tried to start it but no go. No power to the fuel pump, which I traced to no power to the pcm, which turned out to be a blown fuse in the engine bay relay panel. Once I got power to the fuel pump, it still wouldn’t start, which turned out to be a bad fuel pump. Dropped the tank last night put the new fuel pump module in. Now it starts right up, but idles horribly and dies. Also has a noise that sounds like pulleys rubbing that I have yet to track down. Posted on ls1tech to see if I can get some direction there. Not sure where to start, but I ordered an OBD2 scanner, and some new plugs. The way it surges, it seems like it doesn’t have enough gas. https://youtu.be/z89RhxHcLBQ

I’ve been trying to tie up the rest of the wiring around the car. Wondering that locations others have come up with for the main body/frame ground location. I want a good solid ground but don’t want to grind paint off and have it rust later. Like many things, I’m likely over thinking this.

I used the JCI Kit, which I believe is not the same as you used. Still seems odd, but is is what it is. I haven’t done anything about it yet, working in other things, but I do have the old GTO shifter and plan to make that switch.

I picked up the Harbor Freight metal bandsaw/chopsaw. With a 25% off coupon it was right around $200. After a couple hours of tuning it up, it is pretty much flawlessly square cuts every time. Or angles, since I did a complete pie cut exhaust using it.

I expected the F-Body shifter would fit through the factory 240z hole, which was the main reason I converted to the f-body shifter. But it didn't. I had to cut the tunnel and have already butchered up my center console as well. The MGW short shifter I have currently installed only comes with one straight arm, and they don't make a jogged one. I don't have a stock f-body shifter either, though I know they can be had for cheap. I do have the the stock GTO shifter though, so as long I can switch out that offset lever in the trans with out having the take the trans out of the car, I think I''ll be golden. I put the f-body offset lever in there myself when i was rebuilding the trans, I just don't remember if had to slide back the trans tailpiece when I did it.

Got some seats. Put them in the car, only to realize the shifter is out reach. My trans is out of a GTO, which originally had an offset shifter which puts the stick about 3" further back. Of course, when I rebuilt my trans, I set it up to use an F-body shifter. Now I’ll have to get back into the trans to change the offset lever back to the original, so I can put the GTO shifter back on. I just hope I don’t have to pull the trans to do it. But that 3" feels like it’ll put the stick shift in a pretty comfortable position. Been working on the exhaust. Nearly done, just need to fabricate up one more mount. Then to finish up the wiring, add fluids and turn the key.

The GTO T56 shifter is offset like that by a few inches. Wonder if it would work for you. Here is an example. https://www.ebay.com/i/123583308582?chn=ps I have the GTO T56 in my build, its the MN12. I converted it to a F-Body MGW short shifter which required me to change the offset lever, which was part #93 in the Tremec T56 parts schematic. You may just need that offset lever for the GTO, then could use the GTO shifter, which isn't a short throw. I just bolted seats in my car 2 days ago, and realized the MGW shifter is also too far forward, so may go back the GTO shifter. Your build is looking great, btw, and continues to inspire me.

That's a big milestone for sure. It's a great feeling and will surely lead to enjoyable new aspects of the build. Looking forward to continuing to follow along.

Techno Toy Tuning is a dealer and they are well known for good customer service

My. Motor and trans mounts are rubber, and all my suspension is poly. So we'll see how that feels, someday...

Its feeling like what I'll be doing is a single 3". Since my collectors are 2 1/2", I'll run 2 1/2" pipe to the Y, which will be just shy of the differential. 3" out of the Y, then into a 3" in 3" out muffler. Thinking it'll be the biggest Spintech I can fit in the space where the old muffler sat. I'm doing away with the front differential cross-member, so can tuck a little higher. The lowest part of the exhaust should be closer to centered on the wheels, which will give me some peace of mind going over speed bumps. Seems like going with a single will be less fab and less parts, while still getting the performance I want. I'm still on the fence regarding the universal cats, but leaning away from them. Its always something I could add in if i felt like it. Spintech also makes hangers that are pretty simple with rubber isolators. I'm hoping I might be able use some of the existing exhaust mount points.