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andypurce

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Everything posted by andypurce

  1. Does anyone know where I can purchase the corner pieces for the chrome window locking trim for both front and rear screens on my Z? I have searched known sites but to no avail. Thanks
  2. Being unaware of this thread before today I am pleased (!!!) to come across it and find that the maddening three hours I have just spent trying to match up my TTT front LCA to my modified brake and hub setup was not an unusual occurrence. I had already turned over the ball joint when I first installed it on the LCA but then when I presented it to the assembled brake/coilover I came across the problem. As I am lowering the car overall and fitting Roll Centre Adjusters my arm "just" fits - but its a feeler gauge gap! My front setup is cropped & welded strut casings; Otomoto HSD coilovers 55mm, 6.5kg springs, helpers, Koni 1220 Sport shocks; Toyota 4Runner 4 pot callipers, TTT 5-lug aluminium hubs; BMW E36 Vented 280mm rotors. The Rotors sit quite a way back on the stub shaft to align with the 4Runner calliper centreline (the callipers are straight bolt-ons to the standard lugs and the Rotors required a very slight skim but still well within the tolerences). Hence the close fit to the LCA. I am going to grind them back a little to allow reasonable for full movement changes - hate doing it to a new part but ce'st la vie!
  3. I am building a turbo L28 engine stroked and bored to 3.1 litres with an upgraded turbo. I have the 1983 CAS dizzy driving my Microtech ECU and Igniter box. I don't have the wiring harness for the dizzy that has the Green, black, red, white wires from the dizz going to Gr/Ye, Black, Bl/Wh, Gr/Bl wires in the EFI harness. I have read every post on this and there are some that describe the connections that correspond on the dizz end to the colours BUT there isn't one that correlates with another, in other words there are CONFLICTING posts. So I really need to get the correct way round. Here are the options I have seen. Looking at the dizzy four spade male connector box with the screw hole for fastening the harness on the top left corner.(see pic): One post says starting at top left going clockwise: Red, Green, Black, white. Second post says (same rotation) : Green, Red, Black, White. Also, if I am reading the FSM correctly it agrees with post one above. Can anyone Please help and confirm which is correct? Many thanks guys. Andy
  4. Wow, that worked a treat! I needed to brace the one side with a 2 ton press jack but two good whacks and its was off. Snap ring OK. Cheers friend. BTW these are 27 spline shafts - 30mm dia.
  5. Thanks - very helpful. I think it is a snap ring (shows one in the exploded view I have from the Z32 manual). That explains why it says it can't be dismantled but then shows slide hammer. Will get the big 'Omma out !!
  6. I am fitting the Techno Toy rear end conversion to my 260z. I have sourced the donor components from a z32 300zx but decided to shorten the axles myself as the cost of sending over and back to US from Aus was prohibitive. I have read all I can about this subject but i get conflicting opinions from both the threads on here and elsewhere and as there are a number of different axles / spline assemblies it is very type specific. My setup has an R230 VLSD with the 5 spoke diff stub axle outputs. These match to the 5 spoke CV shafts which are different lengths due to the Diff offset in the 300zx (RHS is longer). I have found a shop which will make me up new shafts, not a problem (I can't re-use the shafts I have as they narrow down in the section where I would need to cut the new splines). My problem is dismantling the wheel side CV assembly. The diff side is no problem - snap ring off, turn the assembly, balls drop out etc... But the manual says the wheel side cannot be dismantled then proceeds to say it can be taken off the shaft by using a slide hammer pulling on the wheel stub nut to pull the assembly off the shaft. Now, I may be missing the point completely but I can't see any way looking at the assembly that this can be done without breaking the circlip that holds the splined end into the ball race? The assembly casing looks close welded to me. Does anyone know how this can be done? Also, how do you re-install it ? Does the casing come apart when you give it enough welly? This latter action is the only way I can see that the shaft can be exposed and the cir clip then taken off ( and re-installed) but I can't see a joint on the assembly. If this is a factory sealed unit and thus can't be taken apart at all then does any Z'der in Aus know a CV manufacturer who will make new complete axles? Pics attached. Thanks all.
  7. I need the wiring, including connectors, for the output from a late 280zx. Turbo electronic distributor. This is the dizzy with the single circular 360deg plate with 6 x output marks at 60deg intervals which connects to the 280zx ECU and is driven by a splined driveshaft not a straight tongue. I need the 4 pin (female) connector for the dizzy end with it along with a length of the wiring. The other end is not important but preferable if you can split it out from the loom. Alternatively I would be happy to purchase a complete "engine section" wiring loom as I can use this in stead of adding bits to my 260z loom. Can pay by PayPal or EFT. Thanks Andy
  8. I am looking for a complete set of switches / warning lights for the centre console of a 260z/280z. With harness preferably but without is OK.
  9. I am looking for the 2 x plastic side panels that go into the rear compartment. Must be for a 2+2 (either 260z or 280z). They each have perforated holes in the lower corner and cut-outs to fit. I will take items with minimal damage as long as they are not split or cracked. Also, need them to be shipped to Australia. Thanks.
  10. Bought a crank with pistons, rods and bearing from Dave Rebello. CLOSED
  11. Thanks for the advice. Great thread BTW! Think i have settled on the Arizona setup along with moustache bar etc... Will let you know how it goes .
  12. Hi How did you settle on buying the techno LCAs? I am looking to buy also but am not sure which ones are the best / value for money and performance. The ArizonaZ ones look tremendous but as long as they do the job and provide the scope of adjustment needed then I am happy to get any type. What's your view? Thanks
  13. E30 head coming on a treat now. Will hopefully be flow-benching soon. Building a flow bench setup using a vacuum cleaner for the suction!! Does anyone have flow figures for the E31/E88 and N42 heads?
  14. Update on the L26 re-bore. The sonic test showed more than enough wall thickness for a 3mm oversize so the 86mm bore is done, cylinders honed and new flat top pistons fitted. Interesting note: One of the brand new set of ITM pistons was 1/1000 undersized to the other 5!! So this cylinder is bored out 1/1000 less than the others. Getting it back tomorrow and looking forward to fitting new main journals and re-installing the crank. The L28 crank I have is a beaut. On the dial gauge all of the crank pins and main journals were within tolerance as was the centre bending offset. Fantastic for a 30+ year old crankshaft! Just porting the head intake and exhaust runners at the moment and grinding / balancing the conrods to within 1-2g of each other for a lovely smooth bottom end.
  15. Wanted! 83 Turbo 280zx Distributor/Oil pump drive spindle (splined). I am installing a Microtech ECU on a F54/N42 setup in my 1974 260z 2+2. I have an '83 Turbo distributor (the very neat and simple later one with the flat plate crank angle sensor with 6 x sensor slots firing the pickup). I need however to find a splined type driveshaft for this as the one that came with the engine is the normal single gear parallel type. Otherwise does anyone know of an adaptor. Also, would buy the wiring harness that goes with this if anyone has one for sale? Cheers all
  16. Wanted LD28 long stroker crankshaft for 3.1 liter conversion. Would be happy with either original or kameari copy. Seller would need to ship to Australia please.
  17. Forgot to say that the EFI turbo setup on the L28 engine will be controlled by a Microtech custom ECU with Bosch coil-on-plug fed by an igniter box.
  18. Im Andy - ex Engineer from the mining and energy industries with a passion for cars. Just started on my retirement project which is to rebuild a 1974 260z 2+2 to original body characteristics but with upgraded engine and running gear. I will also be building a second engine for fitting into the car at a later date to race in track days and enter hill climbs in Australia. The car's present condition is quite good as the body has no rust that I can see (although all will be revealed when it gets blasted to get rid of the FORD!! Mica Blue respray that was done about 5 years ago. The original colour is Silver but I am not sure if it is 901 or 306 metallic (anyone have the years that these two colours were used??). I want to return it to its original colour. The interior is stripped apart from the dashboard which will come out soon as I want the shell absolutely clean to blast it. I have most of the interior components but will need to re-upholster the roof lining and carpeting completely. Seats are in reasonable condition as is the dash and door panels. The only bodywork I will fit to enhance the car will be a front air dam. With the car purchase of AU$5,000 and parts / tools I have already coughed up AU$17,000 and expect to spend another AU$20-25k by the time the car is in tip top condition. I intend to show it as a Sydney Z Club Member in future meets! This restoring game aint cheap! Having a road AND a race setup might be a bit extravagant but its my big hobby so I am in no rush but want to make a real good job of it. The outline of the project is as follows: Strip & rebuild L26 engine - A. repair and rework head. It is an E30 off a Skyline (I think) and was not in the best condition. I know this head hasnt got a good reputation for Zs but I think it's worth having a go with to maximise the high CR in a NA setup. So I have installed N42 valves, new seats and new valve guides. I will port and polish the head and fit 9000 RPM springs, lightened and balanced rockers, a Camtech 702 camshaft (high lift and long duration but still with some low end grunt) and then work on the chamber. It's a 37cc high quench head so with the larger valves installed will require some un-shrouding around the exhaust valve especially but also a little around the intake. No skimming (apart from a very minor cleaning skim) will be required. The porting will be done to try to keep reasonable flow velocities to assist with torque. B. Rebore the block - (Measuring the cylinder bores showed both taper and out-of-round was greater than tolerance limits so the block will be oversize bored to the max I can get). Having it sonic tested to see if the walls will take a 3mm oversize to 86mm pistons but my guess is that I will have to settle for less. Assuming a 1mm oversize pistons (flat top) and a 1mm metal gasket the CR will be about 11.23:1 using standard stroke conrods. This is high but we can get 98 Octane fuel here at the gas station and so shouldn't be a problem with good timing setup. All conrods will be worked on and balanced as a set. Pistons will be cast. © I will be fitting a modified timing gear kit by Kameari to replace the standard setup which should assist the accuracy of the timing along with the uprated springs and lightened rockers. (D) there will be other small mods such as upgrading the oil supply with a high rate pump and fitting a new dizzy, leads and coil setup etc... Install triple 40DCOE Webers onto a Canon manifold fed by a Holley 90GPH fuel pump regulated to 4psi. Not decided yet on the intake filtering but I might go for modifying the standard intake box repositioned with a RAM AIr attachment (which I will have to custom make). Fit a custom exhaust header and 6-2-1 piping. This lot came with the car and is 11/2" headers going into 2 x 13/4 " collectors into a single 2 3/4" exhaust. It's in good nick and the rear box looks fine. Fit uprated discs at the front and a rear disc conversion kit. Not sure if I really need ventilated rotors at this stage but will have a race set to fit to the hill climb setup in future. Suspension. I have not decided yet on what to do for the suspension. Ideally I would like to get hold of a modern system that can be controlled by the ECU for various conditions and then custom fit to the Z's chassis. Possibly a bit of a pipe dream! Otherwise I will get the best I can for the car from what's available at a reasonable cost (probable need 2 setups for road and race). Strip and rebuild L28(F54). I have purchased an L28 engine with an F54 Block and N42 head. The engine has a hot cam fitted already to the reworked (flowed) N42 head so I might keep this however, this engine will become a turbocharged unit. I am in the midst of reading Corky Bell's book Maximum Boost and learning all I can about turbos and how to get the best out of one. Also reading as much as I can in these forums (thanks!). I want to stroke the engine so will be after a LD28 crank and all of the kit to go with that if anyone has one for sale?? This will be a long term project but hopefully result in a beaut of an engine kicking out 400HP plus. I know it will be a lot of work and expense but will be worth it in the end and very rewarding to work on. That's about it for now. Will keep it updated.
  19. Does anyone know where to get a set of oversize (service) valve guides for the L series 6 cyl heads? I have 3 heads (2 x N42 and an E30) the E30 guide hole has been reamed out by prior owner to suit service guides. These are 0.2mm oversize (being 12.223mm-12.234mm diameter) and both intake and exhaust are 59mm long. Also be interested in anyone who has fitted 42mm Intake valves to an E30 head. I am interested as this is a high compression head due to the small chamber volume and mated to the larger valves could be good (when ported) for a good race camshaft.
  20. Anyone know where to get service (oversize) valve guides for L Series Cylinder head? Thee are 0.2mm over stock.

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