kiwi303

I'm starting to set to and fab up a casting mould for a cast aluminium RB rear sump pan, But since I don't have a 200ZR pan on hand to take sizes off, could someone run a ruler over their stock RB pan and fill in the numbers on the picture below for me? A: B: C: D: E: F: G: Thanks

I believe a blown exhaust gasket between the head and exhaust header can make sounds like that.

780 000 Japanese yen = 8 525.4 U.S. dollars As I understand it, Japanese tax on old cars makes Cailfornia look like a Libertarians dream state. You have top be RICH to think about owning an old car, much cheaper to flick over a new one on time payment every few years or private lease one.

I have a pair of HIF44's, Tag number FZX1454R, from an 1984 Landrover sitting on my shelf in the shed right now They're simply the 44mm Metric version of the Imperial 1.75" HIF6 SU For a while I ran a single SU on a 3Y 4cyl 2.0L toyota motor on my Hilux.

Best I've every had at a bar, GlenMorae, or GlenMorey or something like that. Best I buy for myself, Laphroaig 300ml, I can't afford the 745ml on a regular basis... On the other hand, I'm more likely to have Tullamore Dew Irish than Scotch.

Is that the inverse of "Broaching"? Exterior vs interior.

I could understand a little water/coolant in the catch can if you have a minor crak that lets a little water through into the oil which then evaporates when the oil is over the boiling point of water, to then condense and collect in the catch can. But not as much as 10 oz with no milky oil signs...

browse the Jaguar forums, Jags and Diamler Soveriegn 6's had 2" carbs. Landrover V8's used HIF6 1.75"

Zclub.org.nz (NZ Z owners club forum) Lifestyleblock.co.nz (small farm, life style block site, I often get asked Q's about guns on there by non-hunters wanting pest destruction tips, It also got me approached by a magazine editor to do a magazine series on guns on small blocks ) Fishnhunt.co.nz (hunting, guns, lots of dirty humour ) Caudata.org (Pet axolotl data, only had it a month and still learning how to care for it) MissNL.ca (only 2 posts in the entire forum and one is mine and the other is essentially a "Me too" Bladeforums.com (not there much, only when I have a metallurgy or Heat Treat Q.) Ellen-Muth.net (Actress fan site, one of my friends who loves the actress dragged me there and now I frequent the off topic lounge section to chat, I've only ever seen the actress in one series, most of the other forumites there have the complete set of everything she's acted in...) Theres about 2 dozen I am a member of, but for much of them, I forget about them, and only remember when i run into the site again on a google search.

Find the "Exotic soundsing V*" sticky and check the pictures in there. There are a Buick, a coulpe of Northstars, some Buick V6's, and I think a couple of chevs like that.

first time checking this thred since I'm not very interested in FWD cars, nissan or not, and it looks like I wasn't missing anything of any import. That being said, an over steering RWD beast breaking the tires loose is IMO more fun and an easier drive than a torque steering FWD. Certainly easier to throttle steer.

true, but still, wouldn't oil flow from the pump ensure the oil gets pushed through ant out the drain?

My former boss at the last job I was at had an A8, Nice handling and good performance, but not a home mechanics car by any means. After it got sideswiped on th emotorway, instead of getting given another one of similar age/miles/condition by the insurance company, he opted to take the cash value and run. Ended up trading in his older Porsche early 90's 911 for a newer Carrera 4 using the cash from the A8 insurance to make up the difference.

I presume there must be a reason why I've never seen a turbocharger with it's shaft axis vertical... But what would that reason be? Seal leaks? poor oil flow? Surely if it's about oil flow, that wouldn't be a problem since the pump is actively pushing the oil around and hence through the turbo... I was doodling around looking at turbo manifolds, and I wondered about fitting a turbo straight up and down, with a downdraft style filter on it. Having the downpipe starting off pointing down would also mean only one bend necessary to go along the underside of the car, rather than two, one from the exhaust flange down and then another to send the pipe along under the body. The intake compressor housing could also be rotated to have the air exhaust pointing to the fore of the car towards the intercooler, eliminating another pipe bend. So why have I never seen this done?

The 2wd RB20DET trans here is the FS5W71C, Same as fitted to RB30e commodores as well. Since read on here your KA24DE trans is a FS5W71C, I can't see why the kits shouldn't be interchangable. The only real difference I would expect to find is the bell housing casting.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143481 a little clip from inside that thread: "I have a datsun rebuild book, a reprint of quite an older manual, it has firing order for L20A which apparently was not sold in the states, it did not however have anything on the L20E or L20et engines. Im wondering if they are slightly different setup." You might be able to PM the grinch, or it may pay to ask on http://www.zclub.org.nz and see if any of the other NZ crew have a 2.0 Fairlady manual. I just have a Haynes 2.8 manual.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Told-Vl-Turbo-Oil-Pump-t263895.html Interesting pics 2/3rds of the way down the 1st page. I went and opened my RD28 pump, the RD28 uses a VL/RB30 style gear set, but my vernier calipers measure it as 14.7mm rather than 11mm. the actual mating surface betweeb pump gear and cranksaft is only 5mm thick however. Pics coming later if anyone wants them just for comparison to the RB ones.

Holden GM IRS in the HSV does a good job holding up to hurling a lardy tub of a 4 door full size sedan around with 300KW under the bonnet. There are HP adder kits fitting turbos to Holden HSVs and Commodores for 750+Hp with no mention ever made of upgrading the diff. Someone on here has been fitting one to their aussie Z, and has a write up, being a GM unit, they must be found in other GMs stateside, such as the Monaro/Ponty GTO, and the G8.

I've already picked up a few bits to have a go at making a rear pan casting, One benefit of living coastal, just look at the number of shops in the trades section of the phone book offering ali casting! lots of that on boat fittings and niknaks.

I could have a look round here in NZ... lots of LD28's around the place. I actually have an RD28 pump available, but I don't think it would fit an LD.

90's and early 00's Holden 3.8 cars... is it time for a group buy from an aussie wrecker for a full container of holden bits? The Commodore S was a RWD 3.8 with an eaton M90

I went through one of those phases as a school kid of having toy fighters and swotting up on all the facts of WWII and so, Still have a 12 book set of the complete battle by battle analysis of WWII. I'd pick the F6F over the F4U, but I'm biased towards British Spitfires.

Actually only the Prototype Mitsubishi A6M Zero-sen had a Mitsubishi engine (760hp), Production models had a larger 14 cylinder twin row (two circles of 7 cylinders) Nakajima Sakae type 12 with 950 Hp, later a Nakajima Sakae type 21 with 980Hp. Putting that in perspective... RIPS had more power bolted into his Z's engine bay, and now his Rail than the Zero fighter had! with a bit less than half the cylinders and a LOT less displacement

As far as electronics goes, I'm wondering how much is tied up to the rest of the chassis, if the engine ECU runs the stereo and air con and throws a hissy fit if it can't find everything it expects, then they'd need a standalone to run rather than bring the stock ECU to the Z.

All I can think of offhand is to pull the valve cover and check the lash pads. Has one worked loose from the recent valve job?