kiwi303

+1 To the above, what you are is specified by labour laws, not by what the boss wants you to be, Calling a ball of manure a rose doesn't make it smell any sweeter, just as calling a non-exempt labourer exemt does not make him exempt either... Whatever Exempt may mean... Your Dept of Labour should have a free advice service, and if you what you describe is illegal labour practice, they should have a bunch of inspectors and lawyers pay your boss a visit.

Not a californian, so can't comment on the scenery, but as for transport... You mention rental car, for 10 days, how much per day is the rental? Here in NZ we get a lot of backpackers come in, do the tour of the country and fly out again, on a 10 day trip at $79 - $150 per day for a modest, fairly recent vintage, compact hatchback or sedan, buying a cheap reliable daily driver type car in the 7 to 10 year old range, old enough to be depreciated down to cheap, yet not so old to be an unreliable clunker or expensive classic, then selling that at the destination for pretty much the same as what you bought it for is a good saving over rental fees. It's a friendly bunch on here, I'm sure you could find a north cali local willing to find and test drive and do a mechanical check of a prospective car in north cali, and another in south cali willing to park up the car at there place for prospective buyers to look at after you fly home to NY again.

in those years the 924/944 was around and while pricer (it IS Porsche after all, pay for the name, not just the car) it did alright in the handling and power stakes.

Maybe it's a conspiracy! I'll just fetch my tin foil hat....

is this the same "Mustardo" there was a recent thread about on here?

yep, use the batter your local chippie uses, A nice beer batter is good. sprinkle the hot fried battered bar with sugar like a hot doughnut before eating. Moro bars are delightful. Bite the end of the battered bar and suck the innards out, that hot gooey semi liquid ooze of sweet nougat and caramel... Then roll the empty choclate coated interiored, sugared batter into a ball and pop it in your mouth Yummy it also sounds rather kinky when I read what I just wrote! My advice: Advice is worth what you pay for it, you are free to ignore ignore what is given freely, but it pays to pay for it because then you remember it every time you open your wallet.

This is an L20 A I am watching, if it's still around come May, I moght pick it up when I'm in the North Island at a conference. Notice the single downdraft, like an Arizona 4bbl manifold but with a smaller carb. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=273822334 I could have a full van on the trip home, I'll be picking up a Cleveland 302ci short block on the way back, and an L20B short block, with possibly this L20A and 4spd if it's still hanging around on Trademe at the time.

I've just found something that bugs me, the old forum, once you clicked "New Posts" listed what is new, and once it comes to the end, it carried on after a little note, listing what isn't new, but for which the threads had not been read. I found that useful, since I can be half way through a new posts list checking on what is new, and have to close the computer and go do something work related. The old way I could close up, come back some time later and do a new posts search and continue past the little note of when I last logged in, and continue reading back through the lists of unopened threads to the timestamp I desired. Now, the "View New Content" only lists what is new since the last login. If I have to log out and buzz of to work at something, when I come back, I loose all those notifications of the other threads I hadn't yet gotten around to reading. Is there some way of making the "View New Content", display a longer list of threads like the old "New Posts"?

Ah, I was going to grizzle about the loss of the hover-for-preview feature as well May as well keep my trap shut for now and get used to the new feel. My biggest issue is it's taking FOREVER to load compared to the old HybridZ.

I glide, infrequently. The local gliding club has a couple of GROB 103 Twin Astirs, and I go up occasionally. haven't soloed yet, or even made a concereted effort to go for my gliding pilots licence. I've also been up a number of times in Bantam B22 microlights, mainly through knowing the manufacturor they're nice small planes. I'm happier 30M underwater than 300+M in the air.

Who remembers the Mythbusters "Golf ball dimples" car? How many MPG would that honda pick up with it's dimpled bedliner exterior? ;D

MAYBE in Aussie, but not in NZ, and given the grumbles in the OZDat build page, unlikely in Aussie. Otherwise he would have been using a RWD plenum instead of having to adapt the FWD plenum from a sedan. Remember NZ and Aussie, and most places around the world, have FAR better diesel grades than US diesel. US trucking diesel until a few years back with the clean air acts and low sulphur act, would barely make the grade as light merchant marine fuel oil. NZ and Aussie got diesel utes where the US had petrol pickups. edit, I found 1, only one, reference to KA24 in a navara in Aussie on googles furst couple of pages, a Ebay.com.au auction for a gasket set for KA24 navaras, the rest were for south africa, or general references about the trucks. KA24 and frontier brings up LOTS of KA24 Navaras in the US under the different name.

Can you grab a 5cc syringe from a nurse somewhere? fill it to 5cc, empty it into the level piston top, and see how much is left after the water is level with the top. Rough, but close enough for the job.

According to the OZDat guy putting a KA20E SOHC head on a L20b block, only in 2 relatively low volume FWD sedans. It might be worth checkign the part number at Repco for the KA pump vs the L pump.

Lets see... On a farm, 1.5 hours from town/riots/mobs, in a country thats too small to be a target in a major war initial strike, plenty of guns, plenty of ammo, 4wd, petrol stocks, one lane gravel road 3km long to reach the house, which passes between a near vertical cliff face and a near vertical fall to a river gorge bottom perfect for a barricade, lots of edible animals, big vege garden and lots of seeds, wetback for hot water, spring fed water under gravity feed, no need for power to run pumps, plans for small scale domestic hydro plant in the next few years supplementing solar panels... Pretty prepared, but thats simply life in the rural areas around here. If the fecal matter hits the rotating blades, I'd miss the power runnign the freezer and the computer, but other than that, we're finr for a good while. Living in an earthquake zone, when the next big one is years overdue, preparation is simply common sense, not nuclear war paranoia as is typical of the media portrayal of USA "preppers" as you call them.

BTUs are British Thermal Units, The amount of thermal energy expressed in arbitrary imperialistic British measurement. ex wikipedia "A BTU is defined as amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of liquid water by one degree from 60 to 61 degrees Fahrenheit at a constant pressure of one atmosphere" 65K BTU/hour is a hair over 19 KW/H KWs are units of 1000 Watts, a Watt is the energy of one Joule in one second, e.g. the output of one joule for one minute would be 60W. While Heat units can be expressed in watts due to the fact they are a measure of the flow of energy used for either cooling or heating an object or area. KW are not primarily a measure of heat energy, while BTUs are. The Calorie is another heat unit, the amount of energy needed to raise one gram of water (one cc, one ml) one degree Celsius, the metric version of the imperial BTU.

whenever I'm on the comp for something, I'll pop in and check the "new Posts" button, usually twice a day, sometimes 3 times, less frequently once a day, but on rare occasions nonce a day. Between 5 mins to 3 hours at a time depending on how many interesting new posts are up in threads I am following, generally 20 mins to an hour takes care of things in the forst check, shorter in the subsequent times. The most active posting times on here are when I am sleeping, since the mass of posters are in the CONUS, while I am in NZ, so the first check takes in all those guys sitting in front of the computer posting after work, and the subsequent checks are the scattered insomniacs or guys with computers at work, so lower posting volumes. Something like the "Exotic V8" and "Flat Plane V8" gets a read every time, but I may bypass L related threads for several days and then glance through a few pages of accumulated posts at a time since I'm ore interesed in RBs and V8s. Maybe 1 in 4 threads gets read, the rest I look at the title see it's not something I'm interested in, and pass by.

mango plum ginger? Ginger isn't spicy, or hot... it's just tasty. Try Green tomato and Ginger... Green tomato (as in unripened red tomatoes, not green tomato as in the green when ripe ones) makes a flavourless bulk that doesn't fight other flavours, and provides acidity to allow the jam to set.

I have a '79 ZX ECU in unknown condition if no-one stateside has one available, but shipping dates probably means it'll arrive there after the event unless it goes expensive express airmail.

Strictly speaking, hones are really only meant to do the scribing of crosshatched marks in the machined bores to provide an evenly uneven surface for the rings to rub against to seal to the bore against. But use them too freely, and you can enlarge the bore to far to get a good seal... With that being so, logic indicates, use them longer still and you can gradually expect to hog out the bores of whatever you are using them in until it reaches the size you desire. It would take a hell of a long time to wear away 30mm if you needed to take off that much with a 400 grit cylinder hone but if you hog things to roughly where you want it to be with a carbide burr or rotary file and then use a hone, you should end up with a usable result. Besides they are available in down to 20grit size, so theres plenty of abrasive action I only use sandpaper down to 50 grit http://www.flexhone.com/flexhone%20for%20cylinders.htm The reason I suggested the ball type is they can get through curves more readily as opposed to the rectangular stone types. That would make doing the intake runners from the plenum simpler, but if all you want to do is enlarge the entry to allow a larger throttle body to be bolted up, a solid mount 2 or 3 stone rectangular one should work fine.

I can't be bothered going to look for the details, but IIRC the Skyline Gts-t came with the RB20DET AWD, R31 series. Google it.

Crap, they don't make Zimbabwe dollars that small any more, would you take a 5 mil note? That's about a dime american i think.

Try one of those bore hone things with lots of balls on springs sticking out from the shaft. Then just keep working that back and forth until you get the size bore you want.

You gonna wear a black leather jacket and a choker collar with spikes when you drive it? Spikes sounds overkill, but I'll suspend judgement until I see the pics