kiwi303

My tyres are lucky to last 4 years before filing WOF on tread depth. Unless they're either offroad on an offroader or on the trailer.

In other words "Don't call us, we'll call you"

If you GO there and look at it, you then see it here when you get back... if you haven't been there yet, it's a img . moonbuggy . org in a blank black square.

hmm... they don't give the modulus of elasticity of the plastic inserts.

Take the tags off and leave it as a URL link, the other site doesn't like hotlinking pics

gloves? why would anyone wear gloves? just wash your hands afterwards

I did, an old Milsurp banger, it doesn't have to be a eye-of-a-gnat-@-500-Yrds rifle, just a minute-of-dinner at 50 lots of cheap of stuff around.

Nissan made a VG33ER, which is the VG33E with a Eaton M62. Ring around some US junkyards and get the SC, front pulley, intake plenum and piping, and ECU and it should be a simple bolt up exercise replacing the NA bits with factory SC bits. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103412 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130066 use the search button and theres plenty of info around on here.

That's what I like about living in a country with no seasons, limits, or rules on taking deer in the wild. Why F8ck around in the cold when you can do it in the warm!

Don't you just love those sweet deals when you score something at such a low price, that you can break down the surplus into spare parts and sell the bits for scrap to cover the part you wanted. I won an engine auction, RB20DE with a blown head gasket, with the intention of pulling the head and replacing the gasket, but it came as part of a "you want one? you take the lot" clearances. An SR18DE (blown gasket), RB20e (running when removed from car, complete but for ECU, loom included) and an RB20DE (blown gasket. Checking the scrap metal prices, theres enough ali in the SR18 and the RB20e head and intake to cover the purchase price of the RB20DE. And I have a spare RB20DE head sitting in the shed already, so I could probably build a second RB20DE out of the RB20e short block Sweet! All I got to do now is strip the iron and plastic bits off the unwanted aluminium parts and I have my initial costs covered

Lambo-Z-ni

Add your (good or oddball) stuff that ends up in your inbox as all your friends and family forward their xmas joke junk mail around

Panzer, Fubar mentions using a Cummins Non Turbo injector pump, No idea what cummins pumps are like, but they aren't stock LD28 pumps which are a Denso copy of A Bosch pump, and essesentially the same as the Pre-93 RD manual injector pumps. Personally, for the work required, I'd just use the RB mounts and pans and install an RD28T if a diesel is wanted.

Splash out $50 for a cheap old .303 or a Springfield '03 or something else old and rusty but shootable. my main rifle is a 1940 Lee Enfield .303 that probably got shot at the japs...

That looks like my 1979 2+2 rear brakes, I can take a snap of my brakes tomorrow if you want?

you might be able to get away with a monster cam by using Rhoads lifters, they don't pump up until the engines running at a good few revs, so low revs means the valves don't open as high.

Ohh Boy! That looks sweet, been lightened a lot with big holes through the journals and the rear flywheel bolt section looks to have been scalloped out pretty radically instead of the usual round circle! Any idea of what that weighs in comparison to the one you have?

It's certainly not nice to have splashing around, I use caustic soda to burn the calves horn buds so the horns don't grow as they get older... get it on yourself and it stings!

There are 26 of them bucket calves here. and another 70+ on cows... I'm glad I'm not in the peoples republic of Commifornia!

Is it going to stay in a dry shed? Just use a rag dipped in cheap axle grease. Make a thin film of grease on the surface and keep it out of the weather. Easy to clean off with a good cleaner/degreaser when the time comes, and you're goign to degrease and prep all the surfaces before painting anyway right?

Look at his User Name, Look at the Brand Name.... Geddit now?

Barely Partially is on the other hand, a START. Reading through this thread, while a lot of it is over my head, I have a few questions... as far as lower velocity, higher volume vs higher velocity lower volume piping and throttle bodies goes, would not a expansion chamber between the smaller throttle body and the plenum entrance have the same effect as the larger throttle body AT the entrance? providing the air space to expand and slow before entering the plentum... The following MS paint sketch is pretty basic, but it shows what I mean (I hope). Notice plenum 1 has a large IC pipe and a large TB, both matching the entrance to the plenum. while Plenum 2 has a small IC pipe and small TB, but has a expansion pipe grading up from the IC size to plenum entrance size. given all the debate about TB sizes, what seems to me to make more effect on plenum and runner efficiency is the avoidance of sharp edges between plenum entrance and walls. Either 1 or 2 would be likely as I follow the flow arguments, to be vastly better than plenum design 4 below which would be afflicted by undesired turbulence where the air flow enters the suddenly much larger space of the plenum? But what about a plain cylindrical plenum where the throttle body is of equal diameter as the plenum itself? (3) would there be any benefit to such a design as that?

There's a caddy northstar around on the forum rigged up like that too.

the problems mentioned in the links earlier mentioned floaty front, obviously from excess air being crammed into the engine bay and unable to get out in sufficient flow. Adding larger vents to the bonnet and some shark gills between the front wheel and the doors might solve that.

maybe someone needs to get busy with some fiberglass and make a pair of plugs to fill the gap between the lower valance and the headlight buckets, while leaving the front gap open... Call them Sideburns or something like this hideous MSPaint hack job of the previous nice car: