beermanpete

Crossflow is supposed to be better, from what I have heard.

I measured my spare 2.4L engine at 26" from the bottom of the oil pan to the top of the valve cover (including the breather port). The engine is installed at an angle so the installed height is less but I don't know by how much.

Does the engine run smoothly at part throttle? Can you drive the car?

Your symptom suggests a lean mixture. You might have a vacuum leak. Do you hear any hissing or whistling sounds? Check for unhooked hoses, open vacuum ports, missing or bad PCV valve, bad master-vac, etc. If you have a fuel return line from the fuel rail back to the tank it might not have a suitable restrictor and too much fuel is returning to the tank. Check the fuel pressure at the carb inlet. What is the history of the carbs? If they are used and dirty the idle circuit might be blocked by dirt, gum, varnish, etc. The carbs might need repair or calibration (jetting).

The 66mm parts won't fit. If you cannot find any that are 73mm or larger you will have to have the smaller ones machined to the correct size. That is what I did.

I attached the clutch section of the service manual for a '73. It should be the essentially the same as your '77. There are several illustrations of the clutch and release assemblies. CL Clutch.pdf If you want to get the '77 manual look here: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html You said the push-rod came out and won't go back in. Why not? What about the piston and spring? There is nothing that hold these parts into the cylinder except the fit with the release arm. If it came out and won't go back in it must be due to some sort of damage that occurred when it was forced apart. Otherwise, you might simply need to remove the cylinder from the transmission so you can reassemble it properly. Anyhow, you still need to determine what caused the push-rod to come out. To hazard a guess, perhaps the release arm became misaligned with the push-rod while the engine was out. When you put it back together the clutch was held in the released position as a result. When you pressed the clutch pedal the release arm had nowhere to go so the force caused the push-rod to slide off the release arm towards the outside rather than back into its seat. If you can recall, when you reinstalled the engine did it seat all the way to the transmission easily or did you need to use the mounting screws to pull it all the way down?

Now that you have the slave cylinder off does the clutch pedal move easily? Does the push rod on the slave cylinder move in and out as you press and release the clutch pedal? Perhaps the slave cylinder is frozen. Does the clutch release arm have any free, easy movement at all?

How long has your car been sitting? It sounds like the throwout bearing carrier is rusted to the front cover snout. You might need to remove the engine or trans and take a look.

I think your first hunch is correct, it sounds like you have a fuel flow problem. Perhaps you have a fuel hose pinched or squeezed that is limiting the fuel flow. Check the fuel flow rate. It should be able to deliver at least 2 gallons per minute (per factory manual). Check directly at the fuel inlet to the carbs.

The torque spec for the drive pinion nut on the Datsun R180 is 17 to 19 kg/m (123 to 145 lb/ft).

How do you know the float level is too low? It sounds like you set it correctly. The gasket in necessary to prevent an internal fuel leak that would cause high fuel level and flooding. To diagnose the problem further, try meauring the fuel level in the float bowl while the engine is actually running. You will need an assistant to this easily and safely. Here is the procedure: 1) Insert a "T" fitting in the fuel line between the float bowl and the carb. 2) Use a clear hose on the T-leg and raise it above the carb so the fuel does not run out. 3) Start the engine. 4) Keep the vertical section as srtaight and vertical as you can and near the float bowl. 5) Measure the distance between the top of the float bowl and the fuel level in the hose. 6) The factory spec for this is 23 mm (0.906") measured from the inside top of the float bowl cover. Add about 1 mm for the thickness of the cover, making the expected fuel level 24 mm below the top of the float bowl cover. 8) If the fuel level is close (within 0.5 mm) to this then your problem is elsewhere. Oftherwise, adjust the float height as necessary to get the fuel level correct. 9) Repeat on the other carb. If you end up with a very different float height setting than 9/16" to get the correct fuel level you have a problem with the float or float valve.

I don't have a specific reason. It just seems like an easy way to damage the stud. If the force to pull in the studs do not exceed the yeild strength of the stud and nut then it is fine. In my case I was concerned that the ARP studs have too much interference because they are a little bit larger in diameter than the original studs (the knurled section). Since I don't know how much force is required I opted to install them without using the threads. I had the hubs off anyhow since the ARP studs are too long to install with the hubs in place. I think the OEM studs will go in with the hubs in place.

We also used these on our car. They fit properly into the stock hubs and work well. Don't use the threads to pull in the studs. Take the hubs off and press them out and back in. We managed to get them out and in with a big hammer. For the rear you can make a support block from a 4x4. Drill holes in it for the studs. The front hub requires two blocks due to the center snout (or a big hole saw). For the best results use a hypdraulic press. Take the hubs to a local shop if convenient. The cost should be minimal.

It sounds like an electrical problem to me as well. The ignition switch has a bypass for the ballast resistor. When in the "crank" position there is an alternate path for voltage to the ignition. The ignition switch could be bad in the "on" position and good in the "crank" positon. Check the voltage at the ballast resistor. One side should be battery voltage (about 12 volts) when the key is on. The other side should be about 9 volts when the key is on and the engine is not runnig (and the points are closed). When the key is in the "crank" position the voltage should be battery voltage (about 9 or 10 volts when crancking) on both sides of the ballast. You could try hot wiring the car. If the ignition switch or a connection is bad somewhere you should be able to make it run by bypassing it with a jumper wire.

Did the car smoke before you changed the trans? If the old trans was allowing oil into the engine (through a bad vacuum modulator) oil could have built up in the intake system or exhaust pipe (if really bad). If this is the cause it will go away when you drive the car more. Another possible cause is sticky rings. When the car is unused for a long time the rings can get stuck in the ring grooves causing excessive oil consumption. This will generally improve when you resume using the car regularly, especially if you tend to drive long distances rather than short trips in town.

Yes. The early cars have a slightly transmission. The shifter deisgn is the main difference. You are using the later "B" type trans it would seem. Cut the floor panel for the necessary clearence. The "B" trans is better.

The screw type adjuster is nice. So far what we have thought about is using an aluminum braket with a PEM nut at the alternator end. The screw can go in from the back side. There is a short slot in the aleternator so it will have some adjustment, but not very much. Luckily the braket is flat so it will be easy to make a new one. We hope to eventually make an aluminum lower mount at some point to replace the original heavy cat iron part. The pulley seems ok so far. The groove is aligned nicely with the crank pulley and water pump pully. The only issue we found so far is he bolt clearance. After we get the wiring back in the car and run it we will know if the pully diameter is correct or not.

You are welcome. Good luck.

The engine is the correct Datsun engine. The only thing that could be different is the displacement. The 2.4L, 2.6L, and 2.8L engines are interchangeable. The photos on E-bay do not tell us which engine it is. It does not really matter too much unless you want a "perfect" car for concours and the like.

The "dual barrel" carbs are Webber DGV barrel carbs. Not the original carbs but good. This is a common conversion from the original SU carbs. The problem with the lights and wipers is probably the switches. Certianly there arr other possible causes, such as fuses, bad connections, etc. It is not likely related to simply running the battery down by leaving the lights on too long unless the battery was never recharged. If this is the case the car will not start and run. The "aftermarket" 5-speed is most likely from a 280Z. This is a common swap. Overall the car looks pretty good cosmetically. Have a mechanic you choose inspect the car to check for "hidden" problems and things you might not think to check. Make sure the title is clean and the registratio is up to date. California is getting way too greedy with late fees these days.

We finally got the new pulley on and a v-belt that fits. The belt size is Gates 7360. The length (circumference) is 36 - 5/8". So for it looks like it will work ok. The only snag is the space between the pulley and the mounting bolts. The pulley is large enough to overhang the bolts. The space is a bit too small, especially at the upper mount, so I thinned the bolt head a bit and reomved the washers. I think the mounting is good enough to run the engine long enough to test the alternator output to assess the pulley size. If the alternator needs to be sped up the pulley will get smaller and the bolt clearance problem might go away. If the pulley size stays as it is I will have to figure out how to improve the mounting so it will be suitable for regular service. It will be a few weeks before the car is ready to run and we can test the alternator.

The only thing I can think of is the spring seat is cup shaped and the bumper sits in the cup. This could help keep it from spreading out as it is compressed which may increase the spring rate. It may also help keep it from being damaged from a very hard impact. Another issue, trivial thought, is the weight will be sprung weight if they are at the top of the shaft and unsprung weight if they sit on the strut tube.

The factory service manual shows the bump stop installed tapered end down, sandwiched between the upper spring seat and the shoulder on the end of the strut shaft. We installed them tapered end up. The car had no bump stops when we got it so we did not have any example to follow. The Energy bump stops do have a small shoulder for fitting in the way the manual (and Eddie) suggest, but I don't think they will stay put. It seems like they might be sqeezed out of place from tightening the nut that holds the strut shaft in to the spring seat. They slide past the shoulder and down the strut shaft easily.

You will know if it is a problem if the spindle won't go in do to damage. Fortunately, by the time the bushing is near the strut it is better aligned and effectively a bit shorter so it may not have the interference it appears to at first. In my case I got the spindle in ok but have not had it apart since, so I cannot say it is or is not damaged. for what its worth, the car drive well.