beermanpete

The dual spring is used for the reverse lock-out detent. The detents for the shift rods are all single springs.

Does the copper get thinner each time it is used?

It might help, but that is not the problem. A bent shift fork might cause it to pop out of gear. Or the syncro could be worn out again if your thrashing the second gear shift alot.

If you are at impending lock-up when the one tire locks it is likely due to normal variations in the road surface. Our car does that as well. Your description of the soft pedal sounds like a bad master. If there is no brake fluid leaking out then you have air in the system or 3 bad master cylinders.

I have seen aluminum lug nuts on Porsches before. They are not original as far as I know. They need to be high quality to be safe and reliable. 7075 alloy maybe? A long thread engagement is necessary (compared to steel lugs) which might require longer studs.

It sounds like the turn signal (T/S) section of the combination switch. The brake light circuit and T/S circuit both go through the T/S switch and use the same wiring and bulbs after the T/S switch. If it is not the actual T/S switch contacts it is the wiring connectors that connect the T/S switch to the wiring harness under the steering column. Another thing to check is the brake lights while using the turn signal. I have seen a few cases were the brake light on the side opposite the side flashing goes out due to dirty/worn T/S switch contacts.

Lower gear ratio and lower center of gravity come to mind.

According to the factory wiring diagram the rear window defroster is controlled by a relay. There is a separate in-line 20A fuse for this circuit. The relay is controlled by the defrost switch in the center console. A copy of the wiring diagram is attached. BE Body Electrical.pdf

2 ways to tell the gear ratio: 1) Turn the input (pinion) shaft, counting the turns, until the output shaft turns 1 full turn. 2) Take the cover off and count the teeth on the gears.

The blue wire with in-line fuse is for the rear window defroster. BE Body Electrical.pdf

Check the combination switch and the grounds near the steering column. The headlights are controlled by the ground to select the high and low beams.

Sunday afternoon after a weekend at the track.

Keep in mind that your car originally had a different alternator and an external regulator. The original system used the "N" wire. Your wiring has been modified to accomodate the Hitachi alternator so the "N" wire might not be connected to anything. I don't know exactly where the white wire goes. The service manual indicates it goes to the ingition switch. You should get a copy of the factory service manual. It is available here: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Yes, by "warning light" I mean a light on the instrument panel that lights up to indicate a malfunction in the charging system. Your 75 does not have a charge warning light. With this in mind there should be no need to make a connection to the "N" terminal on the alternator. The primary purpose of the RF suppressor is to minimize interference with the radio in your car. If you do not have a radio it is not really necessary. They are not expensive. If you have a radio, or you just feel the need, replace it.

The large white wire with the black rubber cover is the main output wire. It is the wire that carries power to the car and battery. The large black wire with the ring terminal is the ground. This wire also carries power. It is the "return" path and must handle the same power as the large white wire. The small white/red wire connects to the RF suppressor (the part you called a terminal) via the blue wire. The RF suppressor is not absolutely essential and the car will work just fine without it. Do not try to repair it. Buy a new one from the part store. The white 2-pin connecector has a wire from the ignition switch and a wire going to the warning light on the dash. The mating pins on the alternator are labeled "F" and "N". The F terminal should connect to the ignition. The N terminal connects to the warning light.

Awesome! I am glad you got sorted out finally.

Not exactly. When the piston is at the top the valves can either be closed (compression stroke) or open (end of exhaust stroke, valve overlap). Since the distributor turns at half the crank speed this matters. You have to verify if you are on the compression stroke or exhaust stroke. As an alternate to removing the valve cover; while turn the engine by hand, place a finger over the spark plug hole (for #1). When the compression stroke begins pressure will build up in the cylinder, pushing air past your finger. Stop at the top of this stroke. If you are on the exhaust stroke the exhaust valve is open so no pressure will build up. Once you verify you are at TDC on the compression stroke, put the oil pump and distributor drive gear back in per factory the instructions and you should be fine.

Yes, it sounds like you have the ignition timing 180 out. Have you taken the valve cover off to verify if you are on the compression stroke or valve overlap?

Will it run with the choke off if you hold the throttle open? How are you setting the ignition timing? A large vacuum leak would explain this. Are you sure there is no vacuum leak? Is the PCV installed? Correctly? How about the Master-Vac? Perhaps it is leaking. Try unhooking the vacuum hoses for these at the manifold and plugging the ports.

It looks ok to me. How about the compression? Valve clearance adjustment?

Use a 12mm wrench. Get 2 of the longest 12mm box wrenches you can find. If possible, get some that don't have the offset angle. You can get them in there but you have to get creative.

We got our brakes finished today, finally. After battling a low brake pedal and assorted weirdness we checked the reaction disk and it was out of place. After we got that corrected the brakes work great. Hooray. The original problem was the proportioning valve. Now the rear brakes work as they should. The adjustment allows the bias to be set for early lock-up at either end, neutral, what ever you want.

You might be able to drill and tap holes in the manifolds near the base gaskets. Install hose barbs and connect the gauges. If you use mecury columns be carefull; the larger displacement might pull enough vacuum to lift the mercury past the top of the column and into the engine. This would be most likely when closing the throttle from a higher engine speed.

It sounds like the idle mixture is too lean. Check for vacuum leaks. Use a spray cleaner or starting ether to locate vacuum leaks. Spray it at likely places such as the intake manifold gasket, carb base gaskets, and so on. Do this when the engine is cold if possible to minimize the risk of starting a fire on the exhaust. Check the PCV and the brake booster. Disconnect their hoses at the manifold and plug the ports. Other things to check: Throttle opener adjustment (if it is still installed). Ignition timing. Make sure the vacuum advance is connected to "ported" vacuum, not manifold vacuum. Choke cable adjustment. Throttle linkage adjustment.