beermanpete

Working better at a higher engine RPM suggests insufficient water flow. What size are the pulleys? Is the water passage area in the timing cover (behind the water pump) in good condition?

The early Z tach has a calibration adjustment. You can reach it through a small hole in the back of the tach housing with a small flat-blade screwdriver.

Yeah, two of them as I recall.

I agree with T-Bone, set the advance at about 3000 RPM (all-in) and let the base timing fall where it will. The centrifigal advance is only about 20 degrees so it will likely end up about 12 degrees at idle.

Set the float height to the factory setting of 14 mm to 15 mm as described in the factory service manual. If you do not have a copy of the manual you can get one at: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

It sounds like the float vale (needle and seat) are leaking. Perhaps the weak fuel pump was masking this problem. Take the float bowl covers off and check the float valves for wear, dirt, and adjustment. Check the floats as well to make sure they are not sinks.

If you are in a position to fabricate brackets and related parts the options are endless. If you need to retain the parking brake then look at rear calipers from lower priced cars since they generally have the parking brake incorporated into the caliper and have piston diameters that are appropriate to work with the stock front brakes and master cylinder. If you do not need the parking brake look at higher prices and higher performance cars. Cruise the wrecking yard and look for something that you like. We decided to we did not want a parking brake and we also wanted fixed calipers so we cruised the wrecking yard and found rear calipers from the late 80s MBZ 300E that fit the bill. These are made by ATE and are very similar in construction to the stock front brakes on the Z. There were also similar calipers on the Maserati BiTurbo. We are using rear rotors from an early 300ZX which are 4-lug and fit without any modification.

We have the same (Moroso) switch on our Z. From what I have seen at the track there are many red handles. Most have the handle tethered to the car so it cannot get lost or separated from the car.

Perhaps you could add a small stipend to the deal to help your friend. He can't eat or pay rent with bondo and sandpaper. Also, as others have mentioned, go see him on a regular schedule. He might need to be micro-managed.

Why not use the tame type of switch as the one you have in the back? The second switch has to do the same job as the first.

McMaster-Carr sells 0.555" and 0.558" reamers for $44 each. You could buy a reamer to size the hole (drill with 35/64" first).

0.007" to 0.009" interfernce has worked well for me. ARP is very helpfull, ask them for a recommendation.

Yes, they are expensive compared to Hawk or Porterfield but they hold up to temps that melt the Porterfield pads and they don't wear quickly. For me it is worth the extra cost to get brakes that last through a time trial event without going away.

Have you tried a NIssan dealer?

We got a gear reduction starter with an L28 engine and it is the same weight as the regular starter. Unfortunately, I have no idea what car it came from.

From the flow guide valve there is a connection to the crankcase and another to the air cleaner. The idea is that the fuel tank can draw in clean air through the air filter while driving. When parked any fuel vapors that need to vent out from the tank go into the crankcase for storage. Upon starting the engine the fuel vapors are drawn into the intake manifold via the PCV and burned by the engine. If you still have the PCV system you can continue to use the flow guide valve. If you no longer have the PCV then you could remove the flow guide and leave the line to the tank open. In that case put a hose on it that drops down to keep water out and put a little filter on the end of it as well to keep dirt out.

I don't think you can delete the post. You should make a post to the thread indicating the item has sold. Also, I think there is a CLOSE function for the thread that will suppress it. Look in the upper right area just above the first post.

What will you use to replace the alternator and starter?

Make sure to get a moving permit before taking the car to the DMV so you don't get dingged for driving the car without being registered.

http://www.24hoursoflemons.com/prices-rules# http://www.24hoursoflemons.com/images/How-Not-To-Fail-LeMons-Tech.pdf

Virtually cavernous...

The main difference I have noticed between the stock (JIS?) fasteners on the Z and the fasteners available locally (ANSI?) is the size of the hex head is smaller on the stock fasteners.

We use about 6 gal/hour with our stock 240Z during time trial events.

You did not mention what type of ignition you have. If it is still the stock breaker point system you can "dead time" it using a test light or other simple test equipment you might happen to have.

FK sells weldable tube ends. Take a look here: http://www.fkrodends.com/WELD44.html