beermanpete

Mine is "180 out" as well. It works fine after rearranging the plug wires but they overlap each other more and don't look as nice.

You can get a flywheel holding tool that holds on to the ring gear teeth. This will allow you to hold the flywheel to torque the bolts. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w80510/media/images

Perhaps you got a bad master from the junkyard. Did the car in the junkyard have a firm brake pedal?

The OE proportioniong valve in the '73 is connected to both the rear and front brake circuits and uses the front brake pressure to act against the rear brake pressure in some manner for the proportioning action. If you gut the valve it will connect the front and rear brake curcuits defeating the saftey benefits of the dual-circuit master cylinder.

I already have a used one in the trunk...

My Z has the alternator output wired through the switch. In my friend's Alfa we ran the ignition positive through the switch. Using a 2-lug switch with the alternator connected to the battery side should work but will not allow an ammeter to be used. Also, some alternators will backfeed current through the exciter wire and keep the ignition alive (which is why we cut the igniton power in the Alfa). Switching the exciter wire for the alternator will only work if the alternator is not self-energizing once the engine is running. Perhaps some are like that. The cars I am familiar with are not. Flaming River is suggesting to cut the igniton power which works fine. This would allow using smaller wires since the ignition current is far less than the alternator output capability. I am not sure how necessary the discharge resistor they show is. It depends on the igniton system design I suppose, or the rules of the racing sanction perhaps.

I installed that one in a freinds car a few months back. It works well enough but is not as easy to tell ON from Off as the type with a rotary knob. My car has the Moroso 74102 located on right side of the cowl just under the windsheild. It works well and has the alternator cutt-off pole.

We removed the evap tank on our '73. We closed all but the highest vent line on the tank. From this vent we ran a line to the vent at the filler neck. Here we made a tee fitting and connected the tank vent to the filler neck vent. The third leg of the tee has a hose that goes up and over the feller neck and then drops down and exits the cabin through the floor of the car to the outside, ending near the fuel gauge sender. It seems to work well and we can fill the tank completely and easily. It does seem to smell a bit when the tank is full but I do not see any fuel leaks.

The engine is all stock, so about 150 at the crank according to Datsun. So far the Subaru LSD has worked well for 6 or 7 weekends at the track. We use the car for time trials not drag racing and road course work does not seem to stress the drive line the same way drag racing. I really don't know the power capability of the drive line.

We have a R180 CLSD from a 2005(?) Subaru STi with a 3.54 gear ratio in our '73 240Z. We bought the side axles from Beta Motorsports which allow using the original 240Z drive axles. With the Beta Motorsport side axles this is a bolt-in installation using the original mustache bar and front mount.

The voltage for this type of AC/DC equipment is normally the same, i.e. 120 volts for either. John, the Grizzly bandsaw looks like the blade speed is rather high for cutting steel. Clearly a better tool overall but would need mods to cut steel.

From what I see in the photos at Home Depot I like the 6232-6N. It has more metal housings where the others have plastic. Also, the gear train appears to be more robust. The DC capability is likely a difference in the design of the speed controller. Not an issue unless you only have a DC power source.

Perhaps one of the lock nuts came loose and allowed the adjustment to change.

You have to get your head close to the firewall, right on the pedals, and look up and forward to see the back of the meters. Use a flashlight or droplight as well. It is a squeeze to get in there and see or do anything. The cable runs through a hole in the firewall more or less directly behind the meter.

61.1 of what? Could it be autoranging and on the millivolt range?

The speedometer and tachometer come out through the front so you don't need to remove the dash to service them. You should be able to change the cable without removing the meter. Removing the tach helps by allowing access through its opening in the dash. There are 2 wing nuts holding each meter to the brackets. Remove these and the meters will pull out a bit so you can remove the lighting and other wiring. The speedomete has a cable for the trip meter reset thathas a tiny screw in the shaft at the back of the meter that has to be removed to get the meter out. The cable and wires are long enough to allow the meters to be pulled out enough to work on the wiring. Removing the steering wheel helps but is not necessary.

Fusible links are typically 4 wire gauge sizes smaller than the wire they protect. The white/red wire in the Z is roughly 10 gauge so the fusible link should be 14 gauge.

We were able to fit 2-1/16" gagues into the dash using the factory bezels. The holes in the dash are not a common size for aftermarket gauges. You have to gut the original gauges and fit the new gauges into the old housings.

We have used the R4 in the front (stock brakes) and they make a lot if noise until hot. Street use will not get them hot enough to quiet down. Try the R4S pads instead, they are the recommended street pad.

The lower radiator hose connects to the timing cover behind the alternator. There is an aluminum fitting bolted to the timing cover which the hose attaches to. Perhaps the hose clamp is loose or the fitting has corroded and has a small hole in it.

We have a '73 and installed the STi R180 using the stock mustache bar and front differential mount.

We finally have the car running again with the "new" engine and transmission. The L28 and 5-speed are working well. We have also converted the rear brakes to disk using ATE calipers taken from the rear of a 1988 300E MBZ and 300ZX rotors. I drove the car in the AROSC TT at The Streets of Willowpsrings a few weeks ago. The engine seems ot be a bit stronger that the tired L24 it replaced, but it does not make power up to 5500 ~ 6000 like the L24. It seems to be done by about 5000. The 5-speed works fine but does not shift quite as precisely as the 4-speed did. I think this is mostly due to 4-speed having the MSA short throw shifter. Also, I think the 4-speed had relatively low miles compared to our new 5-speed. The brakes have improved but not as much from the rear disk conversion as from using Raybestos racing pads in the front. We started out with Porterfiled R4 pads in front and regular street pads in the rear. On Saturday it was raining a bit so the brakes seemed to handle the heat ok. On Sunday it was dry and the fronts started to heat fade after about 10 or 15 minutes. We changes out the fronts to the Raybestos but the Porterfiled pads for the rear are a bit too thick to fit in so we could not try them. Initially the front brakes were shaking with the new pads but it smoothed out after a few laps. I suspect the Porterfiled pads had left uneven deposits of pad material on the rotors. Once the new pads settled in they worked great and never faded. The rears with the street pads worked but did not have enough power to keep up and may have heat faded. We came equipped with Genesis Technologies brake temperature paint and found the front brakes got up to about 900°C (on the edge of the rotor and pad backing) with the Raybestos pads. We did not take temperature readings with the Porterfiled pads but it was likely similar as they come out cracked and burnt looking. Cooling ducts are clearly needed. The rear brakes were about 350°C so it seems they were not working very hard compared to the front. Overall I did pretty well. I placed second in Class P, getting edged out by less than 0.1 seconds by a Miata. Here is an in-car video from Saturday morning before it stared to rain:

The fuel pressure from the mechanical pump is suitable for use with the DGV without a regulator. It will be about 3.5 to 4 PSI. The upper "flaps" as yo ucalled them are the chokes and should move with the choke lever in the car. Be sure to open the throttle a bit with your foot when closing the choke. This allows the fast idle cam to move freely. Check the cables where they attach to the carbs, the clamps could be loose and the cable slipping through them.

I bought a set from Rock Auto that has that includes the large core plug for the back of the block.

It is just a freeze plug, nothing special. You can easily replace it yourself.