10HBMartian
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Thank you. Widowmaker.
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Big shout to my son. He has really helped me more than you might think. We finally got it driving and stopping after about 4 months of being down. The paint isnt perfect but everything mechanical is now new. Perhaps next spring I will paint it back to its proper 901 silver.
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More progress. The Z was rolling again after 3 months apart. Went from crusty to roller to engine installed in 3.5 months. This was a quicker turn around, but I needed to drive it so my motivation was high!
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My bolt in roll cage came in from AGI, out of Austrailia. They have you take measurements from your car so the fit is exact. I had to do very little modification to make it fit. It is very well designed.
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The engine is an L24 2.4L bored 1mm oversize. I have Nissan comp 9mm rods in it. The pistons are flat tops and the entire engine was blueprinted and balanced within a milligram. The head is a rebello racing E-31. I have plans to build out the L28 and install my secret sauce E-31 machined and worked by a long time Bob Sharp mechanic. Im running MSA 6-1 headers and 2.5" exhaust with a turbo muffler. The ignition is powered by MSD digital 6AL, and the distributor was a stock unit with petronix ignitor installed, but the signal was too weak for the digital 6AL box so I installed the Mallory Unilite. Custom ground Cam by ISKY. Nissan comp valves and springs. The transmission is a zx5spd. The carbs are custom bored and I have custom jets and needles made for better performance at higher RPM.
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It took forever but I finally found an authentic set of SSR SpeedStar Watanabe RS-Eight wheels for my Z. It is impossible to find an original set with the correct offset. I took them apart and refinished the barrels. Stripped and powder coated the faces. New hardware throughout each. Better than new and they fit the car perfectly. I used a 5mm spacer on the rear.
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After running the welded R-200 for a while I decided I didnt like how it treated my tires coming in and out of driveways and parking spots. I opted to do a 3.9 R-180 Subaru WRX STI swap. Companion flanges came from John Williams. I ordered all new hardware and seals/ gaskets from Subaru direct. Hydroblasted the covers with my homemade cabinet.
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The steering rack had some slop so I took a spare and rebuilt it. It wasnt that hard and all parts can be sourced from Rock auto and typical bearing suppliers. Refurbished the steering rod and column as well. Whatever I touch somehow turns new.
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Big shout out to S30World.com and Chris V. for making these tanks and sending me one. They are exact copies of the euorpean versions and fit perfect. Never worry about rusty gas again. I replaced all the supply and return lines with aluminum lines. Everything in the fuel system is now new and perfectly clean.
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It was hard labor, but I replaced every connector on the harness after checking continuity and resistance drops across each circut. I want to make sure the harness lasts the life of the car. Big shout to Vintage Connections. They sent me a kit to redo the car plus some. Stock fuel pump harness utilized for the electric pump. Made a jumper to power it. All of my electronics, even MSD and aftermarket stuff, use stock style connectors for ease of connection and changeability. Hella horns used in place of stock. They are loud and annoying.
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Since my dash had so many cracks I took off the cover pad and restored the gauges. I have since placed a plastic dash cap on it. Waiting for my buddy Hung Vu from Vintage Dash to get more S1 pads in.
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All brakes are new. Porterfield rear drum pads and fron is EBC green stuff. Rebuilt the calipers with NOS rebuild kit. Drilled and slotted Stop Tech rotors and all new bearings and extended studs on all corners.Refurbished the E-brake system and used a T3 cable. The quality is great and it works fantastic. All dust shields and backing plates were media blasted and coated with SEM chassis paint. Shouldnt rust anytime soon and will stop on a dime. No reason for overkill brake setup. Modifying the stock and getting good pads does a fantastic job.
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An oil catch can was added and so I made a bracket to utilize any stock holes I could. I did not want to drill any more holes in the car. The plan is to modify while being able to revert to stock. The price on these cars is so great now maybe one day I would need to sell. Oh who am I kidding. I wont sell her.
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Here is a little of the suspension refurbishment. I started by media blasting it all. Then SEM chassis through my spray gun. All new poly bushings from energy suspension was added. I got lucky and also found some NOS Tokico illumina 5 way and springs. I wanted to make it all period correct. Since I wanted to use a solid diff mount I decided to modify the rear member and add strength because they are prone to cracking.
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Some completed engine bay pictures of my progress. Excuse the media as I tend to work alot then forget to take progress pictures. I need a full time photographer! Welded in Bad Dog sway bar braces, Removable battery tray mod.
