Pharaohabq

I'm getting a Nissan 6SP tranny, CD010. (VQ35HR) I am looking to find out what drivesshaft yokes may fit it since stock 350Z carbon fiber shafts are way expensive. So, Questions are: What cars have that tranny, 350Z, G37, and... ? What yokes are similar enough to fit that I could have a driveshaft made from? Thanks, Phar

In a couple months I'll have one here in Albuquerque... Cheap. 128K mi. I'm swapping in a VQ35HR.

How about alternate notch patterns? How hard would it be to have you make one that could match up with alternate notch patterns, say to match a GM Pattern. the rest of the setup I'd be interrested in, but only if I could get this different pattern. though I might be able to just buy a Hesco Balancer if it would fit a L28 crank.. I'll have to pull mine off and see how similar the two are. These are awesome btw.. but I'm sure I've said that before. Phar

before you do too much to it you might also find out what it's going to take to get it registered in your state. in mine it's easy, earlier than 76, = no emissions. (that is until I put in the new engine ) Well good, I don't know anything about a tokico bushing kit, but they make good springs. Should be just fine. shop around a bit tho. As usual, just ask if you run into any issues, or aren't sure the best way to handle an issue. oh and keep posting the picts! we love picts

G nose kit... yeah looks pretty nice! Gota let you know though, that the 2K that kit costs does not include paint, or any or the installation bodywork. they're not just an easy bolt on kit. in many cases they're hours upon hours of bodywork to smooth the lines out. I would recommend that you learn about your car, and get it all cleaned up and basically all the rust handled before you even start looking at body kits. You can find a lot of stuff on Ebay, MSA, BlackDragon, and Datsunrestore for parts for your car. If you're sure you're going to put on a Kit, you can do everything except for paint, then when you're ready, you can look into the Kits. Try not to take short cuts, they tend to bite you later. Also, you should establish a budget for your car. It's easy to spend a lot of $ on your car, and remember on a 30+ year old car it'll likely never be worth how much you put into it, except for what you get in personal enjoyment. Insurance, You might look into Antique/modified car insurance, it's generally a lot cheaper than standard insurance and will cover more of your car. You will have to pay for an appraisal of your car for it. Again good luck, and Ask all the questions you can think of, We love to talk about Z's! Phar

Yeah you definitely don't want to take the shortcuts. you'll just make more work for yourself later when it comes to rust. so get a new seal, Cut the old one and get some help to get your window out, then you can recondition the frame, paint it and then put back in the window. Careful though, it really sucks breaking a window. you might get some piano wire and run it behind the glass to help separate it. Read up on windshield removal, the concepts are the same. Phar

Hey that doesn't look so bad. yeah it's going to be some work. but really it looks like a lot of that rust is just surface rust. though the floorpans look really iffy. The Engine turning over is good, you might just get lucky. I've heard you could just spray a bunch of WD40 in the cylinders let it sit over night, change the oil and try to give it a start. who knows though, there could be gunk in the oil passages. What year does the tag say on that Cali plate, it'll tell you a bit about the car. you car has the 240Z air cleaner, which are getting really hard to find, alone with the good SU-type carbs so that's really good. your dash doesn't look too bad either. I think he's got the right idea up there, have you pull the engine, drop the suspension and build a rotisserie for it. You can rent a sand Blaster that will take care of a lot of the rust pretty quick, not to mention clean up the undercarriage for possibly new rails or at least a good coating of por-15 and maybe even rhino-lining. I don't know how good the rubber is, but you might want to pull the windshield before you do any blasting.. You'll find working on a Rotisserie is much easier than working under the car. w/o engine, tranny, doors and suspension, the car weighs about 800-900 lbs. so it's pretty easy to move about... relatively speaking. I did this w/ my old Fiat spyder, n it was super easy. I am really thinking of doing it w/ my 78' this summer. it's really good you're making a list. a couple things I would add to it, since you'll be in there. somewhere between 3. and step 5. you might put Clean, and inspect suspension, add Energy Polyurethane bushings. and also Check brakes, springs and shocks(struts) these will affect drivability and thus safety by a big factor. I know... it's more work... you won't regret it though. (cept maybe when fighting the rusty bolts, Liquid wrench is your friend.) There's also a method for cleaning parts w/ water, soda, and electrolysis that and take most of the rust off your parts. Have to search for that tho. Anyway, Good luck, this is going to be an awesome project, n don't worry, we've seen MUCH worse. Phar

Hmm door latch. sounds like the latch itself isn't closing all the way. Usually there's 2 catches on those latches, so that you can have your door stay closed even if it's not fully latched. Probably someone sprayed oil or wd-40 in there a while back, and it's now gummed up, if you take off your door panel and unbolt the mechanism, pull it, and you can spray it out with brake cleaner, wipe it down and graphite it. you'll see exactly how it works when it's out, it's really pretty simple, but amazing how well it keeps the door shut. Anyway, once you clean it and make sure it works okay, re-install and you should be good. Worst case you'll have to make another trip to Ebay or somewhere to find a latch... So you're using Black paint to color your interior huh? I went and spent a lot of $ buying interior parts off Ebay that were all black to convert my interior from white to black. the white was too dingy and sunbleached tan and grey in a lot of places. , I probably could use paint on some areas, if I'd thought more about it, paint may have ben a good idea. but aren't you afraid of cracking? I suppose it depends on how thick. Yeah, just cover the holes for now, then when you're ready go for the welding. it's good your uncle has a shop, that'll make it a lot easier. Look for the thread on sound deadening materials, there's a lot out there. but you really should get those holes welded up before you start putting anything down. you don't want to end up with any musty smells. MSA and a few other places sell floor pans, but depending on how bad it is, you might get away with just some sheet metal patches. Don't forget to seal the underside after it's welded. Phar

wow those kits look really cool. The Kit on that page says 150-175 hours of fab time to get one put together. that's a lot of work. it would be really cool. 3 grand + the car and engine that's a lot, but pretty darn sweet. Good luck with your build. Phar

Hey Justin! That's awesome, a great find! I'm also here in NM, working on getting the NMZCC restarted... anyway, that looks like a great project. Little bit of rust there on the floors and in the engine compartment. Take a look in the front wheel wells just behind the wheels above the frame just back from the steering crossmember, how is the rust there? Take a little hammer and knock on it a little. that's one spot that rust likes to hide, and it important that it's not rusted through there, because it affects body rigidity and most importantly safety. If it's rusted through there, you'll be needing to do some work. Wow, yeah it's in a lot better shape than your black one. I got my first Z when I was 16. What are you going to do for engines? I'm super jealous of your bumpers. they look purty n shiney! if you want to sell/give them away, Could I be first in line?? hehe Keep them pictures coming. Phar

Well, if you're interrested in welding stuff you could do what I did. I took a class at the community college here just to learn how. then I went to home depot and bought a lincoln 135 (largest 110V welder) As part of the class they had you do your own projects so I got to work on my own project. (at the time it was a rock crawler bumper) but they taught me a lot of tricks for how to weld, n really you didn't have to do any studying. it's far from brain surgery, n I was probably smarter than 3/4 of the class. it's a lot different taking a class for fun, than to learn a carreer. Anyway, from there I've learned how to put what I learned to use and to expand on that through these and other forums. You'll find on here proper methods for welding in body panels, or even replacing floorboards or just patching holes. if you don't know something, just ask, people are generally happy to help. I would recommend taking a class. most community colleges are cheap or free on the "trades" programs anyway. Don't use Por-15 on it if you're going to try to weld it later. Por-15 I've found is near impossible to remove, that's tough stuff. it's why I'm using it as a first layer for my undercoating. When you weld, you need clean bare metal. Yes an angle grinder w/ a wire brush is your friend. You can have someone do your welding for you too. it's usually pretty cheap, esp if you have a friend w/ a welder. if you were in abq, I'd weld it for you. Anyhow, You're doing a great job! nice cleanup in the interior. Are you going to paint the interior too? Phar

okay, hey I keep thinking about the bling show car deal , sure I see your point, I wasn't thinking too much shiney shiney, but I guess cleaning it all up will really make the difference. oh that's a good idea about the 90 for the pcv tube. Awe, back to the mockup head huh? bummer, well hopefully you'll get it back on the car this weekend. can't wait. so what's next? just a few tweaks then install. are you going to have to make any changes to get the tps mounted on a different tb? it sounds like you've got a pretty good handle on things. you're got the timing ring already for the EDIS, you've got the MAP, the TPS, O2, what am I missing, on you MS setup. you already said you were making your harness, and I assume you've got your MS already, oh temp sensor... phar

Hey Derek, that's looking really sweet. Sucks you'll have to do a little modification, but that's like you said, what prototypes are for. Very sweet tho. they look amazing actually mounted in the car. don't mod the hood. I don't have to say that, I know, I just think it would be more harm than good. Soo, the throttle linkage. maybe you should fashion a second bell pivot near Cyl#6 and link the stock and 2nd pivot together then to your throttles. I don't know exactly how well this would fit, but I think it would look really cool if it did fit... Seeing it mounted. I was thinking about the PCV , you could run a tube down into your balance tube between the manifolds. It would help milage and actually lower pressure in the valve cover. tho your original idea of using a small filter there would work well too. just a thought since positive ventilation also pulls fumes from the crankcase and neutral ventilation relies on blowby to push the fumes out. What are your thoughts? Okay Seeing how that Goo worked, I'm sold, it looks like it made a great seal and even better after it's setup. if I ever need something to do that job, I know what to use. You know I was skeptical about it. but now I feel like a congressman being lobbied on bank bailouts. I didn't think it would be so easy to chang my mind.... hehe. Seeing it installed I really bet you were tempted to set your MS stuff up on it and give it a crank... Even if it didn't fit yet, hearing it run is sooo tempting and you know we're all drooling out here. So I hope your tweaking goes quickly and smoothly so you'll get it started this month! Phar p.s: you might consider a plated or billet water hose outlet. it looks so mundane next to them fancy horns..

Awesome! they look so purty! Glad to help! I really like how those are looking, and I too are really excited to see it installed and see how it actually runs. (req #3) I'm sure it will. You've already got your EDIS working, and MS should work off parts of that. Once it's done, I'm sure you'll breathe a sigh of relief and: but then what will you do for fun? Phar

Just take lots of picts and post them here so we can see! we love build picts! We might also be able to give you pointers as you go along. ... http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Sounds like a good starting point. you might start my doing some searches. like this: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

light sensitivity is normal... it'll go away after a while. I'm glad they said they'd get you all fixed up.. it does suck that you'll have to go through all that w/ the drops and all all over again. but at least the Dr. says he'll try to help you. You might go see another lasik Dr for a 2nd opinion, it might cost a little, but it'll be good to know that both doctors would be telling you the same story. This is your vision, it would be sad if they took risks just to cover their a$$... Phar

that's the same as it did on my jeep, I think it learns your engine and holds a better functionality. that's why I want to try it on an L28. (not to mention it's made for a 6cyl, and is MPI non-batch fired too... )

Yeah I've always wanted to try out Jeep. 4.0 EFI on a L28 engine. There's a few things to figure, but really it's pretty simple when you get into the swap bacause so many people have done it to fix the carbs on the old 4.2L using 4.0 parts. OBD1 is much easier to swap, but with ODB2 you just put the 2nd O2 sensor furthor down the pipe and it looks like it's on the other side of the Cat, tho a resistor is needed to change the value. It's not as tuneable, but it's a big step up from the bosch EFI. http://www.projectjeep.com/Projects/EFI.html Phar

yeah that's a NICE find. as for cleaning... Well, maybe power washer, followed by a lot of WD-40. Sand is a PITA to clean out, but hey, free you can't beat. if it was just oil n grime I'm a fan of carb cleaner. oh n I hate you... hehehe Phar

Contact Apple about it, They'll get on them serious. They like to try to find where fake copies are coming into the country and shut em down. might not get your # back but apple might be grateful. you might be screwed tho, that's the problem w/ craigslist. if you paid online, you might be able to get the charges reversed.

Have you looked up the FSM? or have you found a chilton's od similar manual? They should have information about that. Otherwise, you might have to start tracing wires. phar

okay, Well on the time idea, then that's probably a good idea. I was thinking you might want to try it w/o any good first, just to see how your stock leakage has a cumulative effect before sealing, and with all the needles closed. that might give you an idea of what your tolerances are. my 4.0 has no goo but it precision machined. I guess it would be interresting just to figure. but it's your project, n if you want to goo it right away, then more power to ya, no pun intended... Phar now to find your megasquirt thread. search search, where is that damned button..

Oh I wasn't at all knocking the beauty of your creation, I think your log is on the "really really" side of "look really cool" I wish I could create like you. I was merely trying to say that with a balance tube, and separate log idle screw, I'm thinking you won't need much if any adjustment from your needle valves. but they will look really cool. IMHO, You should try your manifolds w/o the $95 goo first and just see what happens. if they idle too high, then you can work on sealing the butterflies better. I went and looked at my 4.0 throttle body and there's about an 1/8th inch "idle" hole in the plate which I guess would tell me you can get away with a little leakage in your setup. Phar I need to search for your thread on the MS setup you're using.

oh and don't worry about starburst or looking at the sun, starburst get less and less over time, (less than you had w/ glasses anyway) and WHY ARE YOU LOOKING AT THE SUN???? you just got your eyes fixed, n how you want to be blind?? hehehe