gacksen

have a rolled lip on all 4 corners and running 16x8 et0. no rubbing issues at all

looking forward to this.

youre right sorry for the confusion .... synchromax.... just was in the garage to check whats in the Z and found that i got mixed up. have an english convertible with a T5 and used the synchromax there. in the Z i used royal purple max gear 75W90 as i had some quarts left. must say have grinds on downshift 3rd to 2nd and 2nd to 1st. have a 71B box out of a 1982 ZX

have used royal pruple synchromesh in all my cars with the T5. didn´t find anything better in terms of cold shift and hot shift ability.

thats quite impressive !

have the full ACZ setup on th3e fronts and rears and first time install got me worried a bit on the rear as the tubes are only hold in place with the pressure from below. next time i have the car on the ramps will drill holes in the tubes and get them secured. just in case.....

had been on the dyno last week. as for the 152 chokes went from 40 to 36 and from mains 155 down to 140. ac had been 200 previously and now is 195. first street run had been with 40 pumps and 0.4 bleeds and 60f8 idle. had not been workable. the typical bog once you go wot. emulsion is f16. improved quite a bit once pump had been 50. was 237 horses and 227 lb ft with the above jetting. currently waiting for new jets. will try next the following : choke 36 mains 150 ac 200 idle 60f9 bleeds 0 emulsion f15 or f2 pump 55 or upwards

have bled the clutch yesterday but it is still raining so hopefully will try it out tmr and see if there is any cure to the crunch. have adjusted the pedal and slave too. as for the carbs will get the cover off and pull the jets to see whats inside. it´s my first car with carbs so quite new to that field

had some busy days with my work and not much time to take care of the car. as far as i am aware head is fully ported and webbers are triple 45" with 50mm chockes. need to take the valve cover of the see what cam it is. drove it last weekend and ran into antoher problem. gearbox crunch on downshift only from 3rd to 2nd gear. no other crunches also not in reverse. had replaced master and slave when i got the car as the fluid had been fully black. will try to adjust the slave and pedal to see if it is possible to cure the problem. only thing that worries me is that the crunch appers only on downshift from 3rd to 2nd at higher rpm´s. maybe worn snychro but not sure. when shifting into second gear the click sound of the gearbox is missing that i have in all other gears. it´s a 5speed trans from a zx 71B mated with an R200. if it would be the synchro i guess i would replace the box completly and go for an FS5W71C or FS5R30A. have read some posts about the swap with the FS5W71C swapping bellhousing etc. but could not find much regarding the 300zx turbo trans FS5R30. anybody has done this and what mods are necessary ?

have emtiped the reservoir almost fully to be sure it got flushed. color change was quite obvious. currently running motul 5.1 brake fluid on my other cars but thought will give the ATE blue a go. @RebekahsZ if you need some i can sent you some over but i think there are plenty of alterntives. 1L sells here for around 20-22 USD. got the geo set up today and the corner wheights done. car weight was 1070kg with 3/4 tank without driver. when i drove home i enjoyed the handling first time since i bought it. Those ACZ componets are great to adjust.

Had my car on the dyno those days and it´s not bad. it´s 3.1 with flat tops in it. didn´t measure the cam yet but will do the next days. as you can see from the torque curve it´s fully flat from 2500 above until 6000 and then falls off. as it is a stroker with the ld28 i am a little bit worried about piston speed. it has triple webbers on it that are not fully tuned up yet. will get that done in december. idle is perfect with the car. don´t drive it regular it´s just a weekend toy. what mods would be necessary to shift the redline safely to 7k also what cam should be a good choice to get a more sports car like curve ? mine reminds me of a diesel.don´t need the car for inner city traffic.

case closed cleaned the garage of all the brake fluid mess. slept a night over it and gave it a go some hours ago. problem has not been MC or prop valve. it was just air in the rear calipers. didn´t even touch the pressure bleeder or rebleed the MC. jacked thar up and followed the advice with the bleeder at the rear claipers beeing not at the highest point. before that went to the auto store and bought a new can of ATE racing blue brake fluid. pushed the pedal first and went to see if there are any bubbles in the hose. i can tell you there were some. didn´t think the angle would make that much of a difference. next thing the speedbleeders are air tight on the threads. no problem with that. did the other side of the rears without touch the fronts until the fluid went all blue. got the car of the ramps and checked the pressure. it is better than i got it out of the shop and what they did had been a pressure bleed. i want to thank you all for your helpfull advice to solve my problem so i can continue the restoration on the car

could be the cause. hopefully with enough pressure this should be sorted. don´t think the shop i had it in that replaced the rear wheel bearings changed the position of the calipers. my friend will lend me something like this and hopefully i can make one of those adaptors fit the reservoir properly.

during the week will have some spare time to give it another go. will try to gravity bleed the brakes first and get the claipers on the rear off. also friend of mine will lend me his workshop pressure bleeder and if more pressure can´t sort this thing out i don´t know everytime the old story men vs machine but i know machine will lose this time

first of all absolutely great write up ! after 3 hours i skipped it for today. what i did had been the following : 1. switched back to the old rubber hoses on the rears just in case. 2. bled the master. first reservoir next to booster then the front one. clear hose from bleeder into reservoir. bleeder maybe 1/4 turn open. both reservoirs no bubbles at all. unknown factor is the bleeder as i did it by myself as girlfriend motiviation had been soso means kept pumping the pedal for some time. don´t think the bleeder will suck in air in the thread area but of course can´t tell for sure. 3. put the car on 4 jacks and for better access. started rear right same thing 1/4 turn speedbleeder open with clear hose in fluid canister.kept pushing the padal for 15x times. reservoir level then had been about 1/3. refilled the reservoir of rear brakes and repeated the process. pulled the handbrake some times but didn´t make a difference. unknown factor same as above would be the thread of the speedbleeder as i did it alone. don´t think it sucks air from the thread as the had been no fluid in the thread area. 4. repeated the steps on all 4x calipers twice. conclusion in the case nothing has changed at all. front reservoir for the rear brakes keeps on moving while fluid level of the fronts stays level. As the car had been jacked up anyway and i had some time tried the following : 1. connected clear hose to fron´t left caliper and rear left caliper. opened the bleeder 1/4 turn and started pumping. of course fluid level will drop differently i guess due to the brake balance of front and rears so front reservoir will be low on fluid earlier compared to the rears. thought maybe there is something blocked due to the pressure imbalance but it does not seem so. made a picture of my front and rear calipers and can tell you...... brake fluid is the same hazzle as graphite grease two hours had passed and still no success on the brakes so i stared looking and found an old pressure bleeder that will be connected to a spare tire. when taking a look to all those brake lines espcially the rear one they are above the bleeder. as the pressure bleeder was meant to be used for reservoirs with a thread on it and those in the car doesnt have one had to use a different construction. checked the tire pressure and it had been 1.4 bar on the spare wheel. so searched for some clamps to get it kind of fixed on top but wasn´t succesfull. ended up with big cable ties and i guess you know the rest of the story once pressure was on after cleaning up the mess and thinking about what had been done in the past on the car. was in the workshop for new wheelbaerings and they bleed the brakes without any problems. changed springs on the front dampers before that and drove the car to them with brakes no bleeded they managed to get it done. i guess those are the maxima calipers ? maybe just more pressure of an air pressure bleeders is needed to get rid of the air trapped in the rears ?

spent two hours reading several posts but could not find any answer changed the rear rubber hoses to braided ones the last days and tried to bleed the system today. first bleed the tandem master with rubber hoses attached to the bleed screws into the reservoirs until no air came out. have speed bleeders all around so started on the rear passenger side first. then rear driver, passenger front and driver front side until no air came out of all the calipers just plain fluid. have willwood fronts and started to bleed the inner valve of the caliper first. checked for leakes of any kind and there seem to be none. system is not losing and fluid. checked for any wilwood proportioning valve but there seems to be none in sight. when i press the pedal it is full soft and brake light goes on. if i press it again say within 1 second and pump the brakes will get pressure on the pedal and it feels normal but after waiting 5 seconds pressure is gone and i would have to pump it again. what i noticed with reservoir caps off the fluid in the reservoir tank for the front brakes stays level while pressing the pedal. the reservoir tank of the rear brakes drops fluid down around 1/4 inch while pressing. after some seconds fuild level will go up again. i guess it corresponding with the brake pressure. is there and secret trick as i don´t know what to do else ?

it seems have spent the money for the head one of my UK cars in going from 410 to 460 hp.... 4.3L NA and the 3.1 in the datsun is running fine but if this thing is putting out near 350 hp in standard setup below 10K i would be interessted too

have the same setup as the OP on my car. currently some race type pads are on it. cold terrible to drive you need to warm them up and not my cup of tea. already ordered new EBC yellow stuff pads for the front and rears to come in. have them on all of my high HP english cars and they work fine with a good bite. would rate them a little bit below race pads. currently waiting for a set uf speed bleeders and once arrived pads will go in with 5.1 brake fluid.

will get some pictures from behind. muffler sits at the same height as the oilpan. maybe bad angle of the picture. normally would not have put the silencer in but 119db at 3500rpm made me do it. currently setting up the rear sway bar.

front is done and the rear will be done the next days

great car !

dont want to open a new thread but do you know the actual thread size of the water temp gauge sender ? could´not find any info about it. any help highly welcome

new project but still a lot to do.

Looking for a modded Z car with L28 or preferably already swapped SR20/25 or LS1. 240z would be nice but not a must have.paintjob doesn´t matter as it will get resprayed anyway but preferably with as little rust as possible (obviously). budget depending on the individual car. please drop me line either via pm or email : rawos@gmx.de