gacksen

stopped working on the car late december and had all connectors marked that this situation would never happen phone died and all the pictures i have taken are gone with the wind the only bits i cant figure out are the ignition switch and two other things. maybe someone can help with the connection order and wire color ? car is a 1972 240z location is left driver side location is behind steering column ignition switch

Had been working on the car again since months and stuck one of the fender flares on the rear in position. can someone guide me if this is correct or does it look misaligned ?

yes youre right. condition below the car also looks great. question for the buyer would be what to do with it ? either drive it or put it in storage. when buying at this high price level value just can go down if you drive it. as for the fresh paint the first stone chips hurt the most. had been thinking at one point of buying a 964 and starting to convert it with bumbers and this and that to the oldschool looks of the 911 that is going round right now but the manual cars arent quite cheap either those days plus strong dollar makes imports more expensive. depends on the area you live but here nearby frankfurt i do see mainly old porsche mercedes maybe a little bit of triumph or alfa romeos around. the chance you will see a datsun is almost zero and makes it quite exotic here.

dont think it will sell for that price. you can go in the direction of a 911 that wont ever drop in any sort of value if you take care. taking a look what has been acutually done i would take a very close look at every part of the car. this is top aksing dollar for a car like this. bought mine in the middle of the 10k region and most of the work had been done already. with a lot of ACZ parts brand new interior different new carbon parts wheels tires exhaust mod carb overhaul lets say another 10 went in so it would be in the middle of the 20ies of course hours not counted in. in my opinion makes no sense buying cars in a1 condtion due once on the road after some miles it is a2. my car had a so called "fresh paintjob" before i bought it and can say it like this the guy that painted the car should have spent the 3 days in my garage getting rid of orange peel with wet sand paper.

me too as gearbox synchros are on their way out and wanna end that

that looks great ! LS6

currently having the 225/200 setup but car is currently torn apart and not driveable. before that felt to soft on the rears and to stiff on the fronts but gues that was because of the illumina settings. once car drives will see that i can dial it in. if not what would be needed to convert the whole setup to coilovers ?

looks great with the dish !

case closed took the multimeter. yellow red and black are the wires to go

Have currently the dash out and have taken a look at the wiring dia of the 1972 240z. Need to take the water temp / oil pressure gauge out and feddle in a greddy one with the cables in the diagram. on which of the old gauge i find what i need ? don´t have any clue which wire to take. could somebody help out ?

jez great stuff for the roadster wanna have that for the s30 !

with a different wideband and a different car almost had been there as for the problem itself i have exactly the same. car is ripped apart for some months now so no tuning is possible but before that if you go WOT below 2750rpm issue is going in the same direction. with the camed 3.1 and triple dcoe was running 140 mains 195 airs and 40 pumps...

thx. wrote an email and seems they are still in business

anybody makes them in carbon ?

thanks ! will check that out the next days as i need to remove more parts as thought to fix the "paintjob" of the previous owner

Hi there, have searched a while but could not find anything about it. There are bolts inside the engine bay and below the car to remove the fenders. have to repair some rust spots on the side. do i miss any bolts ? help is appreciated

thats a great feature ! once my AFR gauge is in i will mess with the e tubes. got some jb weld to get that bog sorted...

looks tasty had thought about it but as the euro sucks at the moment way to expensive

had something similar and it was a pita to get it solved. had to remove the rear calipers as they had been maxima ones to get them bleed properly. bought easy bleeders for all the calipers and they do quite a good job. the master i bled while it was in situ with hoses back to the reservoir and it seemed to be working.

looks great more pictures ?

just wondering do they need something in exchange ?

except of some pain in my neck looks nice

http://www.workwheelsusa.com/category.php?category=30 seem to be only available in 14" or 15" otherwise perfect

nice wheels anybody knows if something similar is available in 16" ?

just wondering about the lean condition they have between 2-4K they say it is the accel . pump. as for some graphs i have seen there is everytime the same lean condition in that rev range on the dyno graphs. why is that ? it does not seem that the cause are the accel pumps. also why are most of the holes on the emulsion tubes everytime in the middle section ?