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When someone asks me “What make is that?†I say "A Ferrari Hardly†Then the guy says "Ferrari?†Then my wife rolls her eyes and says “hardlyâ€

Hi Chelle: Sorry for the delay. I am using an old Accel DFI unit. It was modern for its day but now seems so dated. The software works on dos. I have to keep a 486 laptop around to use the software. Mapping is all numbers anyway, but a graphic interface would be nice. I was thinking your fuel issues might be O2 sensor related. Sensors can be bench tested with a volt meter and a propane torch. I have had problems with my sensor as a result of silicone contamination. It really sends them for a loop. Pun intended. The Jag currently runs with reground cams from Iskendarian with out problems however direct cam oil lines are standard for this motor. It is interesting how noticeably the power band moved up the rev range with the different grind. I’m not sure that a cam change can make a fuel injected motor run lumpy as the fuel mix is so efficiently distributed. But I might be wrong. I was curious what pipe size and mufflers you used to get that nice V12 sound from the back end?

Chelle: I don’t think fuel mapping is ever complete. You can get close to how you want it to run…but there will always be something else you can do to tune it more. I have been remapping mine since ’99. I had to start over after the cam change. Your car looks good…enjoy it while the weather is warm.

Here is the link for the manual http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/49300.pdf This is the link for other manuals http://www.accel-ignition.com/InstructionSheetsList.aspx?BrandID=3 I think it depends on the box number. Hope this helps.

http://www.parl.gc.ca/common/bills_ls.asp?lang=E&ls=c65&source=library_prb&Parl=38&Ses=1 For the Canadians among us. there is some interesting and debatable reading here. There is also some references to what other communities have done to deal with their issues. I don’t have much use for racing on the street (the track is nearby) but I do engage in some spirited driving from time to time. Is it racing if you’re alone?

I think the smoothness of the V12 Jag has to do with the heavy flywheel and the iron pulleys. My friend’s dad had a ’49 Caddy flat head V8 that could do the same thing. We would stair in awe when this car would silently idle. When asked, his dad said it was the heavy flywheel/converter that made it run smooth. I took all that stuff off my 12 for a faster revving motor. It’s smooth but I wouldn't put anything but an empty glass on it. Wine is too dear to risk a spill.

There might be a Jag V12 kicking around somewhere in the UK that might fit. It only takes a weekend to put one in... and a year to make it start.

Nice car! I’ll bet that engine will make that beast get up and go. I hope he gets his price and then some.

I could be friends with this guy...drink a beer or two and swap swap stories.

Hey ajb: I can’t remember the last time I posted on this board. But I think I remember how. I used a stock iron manifold for the picture above. I do remember the carb was very close to the hood. I, as you, was looking for a way to put a scoop or bubble on the hood. The best idea I could think of then, was the Camero cowl induction scoop from the eighties. I used a very low profile air cleaner… not good for power. Later I added a low profile dual AFB set up that had lots of top end power but no low end torque. The drivers side exhaust for the small block Mopar was made up of some home made tri Y headers. I used the flange from an old set of pipes and stick welded some stainless tubing to them. They were a very simple design as a result of the lack of room on the driver’s side. If the budget permits, you might go for some block huggers… but do lots of measuring be for you buy. Some times you can swap the manifolds side for side with “interesting†results. I hope this helps you out. Cheers…:::Glenn

My 318Z from the eighties.

If I were to up grade, the boosted motor sounds tempting, A boosted motor could be built form a low compression 5.3l bottom end from the seventies. They had about 8:1 compression. The block has four bolt mains from front to back and the rods are fairly stout. For the top end the swirl port heads from the late eighties would be best. An aftermarket Fuel injection system would top off the long block. A pro charger system similar to Drarius’ system here could be jammed into the front left side of the engine bay. I think that Dan is right that there isn’t enough real-estate for turbo(s) but a centrifugal type super charger could be a way to go. Sven, I’m not that crazy on having copper against the aluminum head for TheneedforZ's big displacement V12 but if it is the only way there might be a sealer or something to stop the corrosion.

Boring the engine would not be that difficult. Remove the liners and make a new set the desired bore. Put a shoulder on the bottom half of the liner so it sits in the block. Bore out the block to fit the liner. There is a lot of space between the liners but I think the 98 mm you mentioned is about as big as you can safely get with out making to walls too thin. This can be done by local shops and pistons can be sourced. Head gaskets are an issue. Stroking is another matter. You will have to source a crank. You might find aftermarket rods but the crank is an issue. I have had my head into this far a while. It would be more economical to find a rare six liter engine or just boost the bastard 5.3. I have found the mildly cammed 5.3l to be adequate for the Z.

A few years ago I had to choose between keeping the Z or a clean 70 El Camino SS 454 4sp. It was agonizing. I flip flopped back and forth a few times. But now I don’t regret my choice. More than once I had found my self with the brakes locked up on the Chev trying desperately to stop and thinking that the Z wouldn’t do this, it would just stop. The one that got away was my ’70 AAR ‘Cuda. I sold it for $5500 in ’85 when we ran short of cash. I can’t imagine it’s value now.

Kilos sounds right. Mine weighs in at 1300 KG. 1182kg X 2.2 = 2600lbs

Thats it! One beer! She needs more training...send her away.

Spent a full year installing the vette rear. In and out seven times until it was perfect. I got five miles with no oil in the diff. The funny part was that the neighbors think I’m a good mechanic and it really burst my bubble having to come home on a hook. PS: To this day I cannot put in a new rotor cap with out mixing up two wires!

I was born there. But left after 22 days. ...I don't know...I'll have to ask my mom.

Watch this. http://www.ratsun.com/videos/mel1042003.mpg'>http://www.ratsun.com/videos/mel1042003.mpg This is his sight. http://www.ratsun.com/