lgoodson@pacbell.net

Thanks for all the input. I have been looking at the PC925 Odyssey that has 28AH but as far as cold cranking amps is concerned I don't know as it is not stated in the specs, just 925 for 5 sec, 870 for 10 sec and 765 for 20 sec's. I don't know if that is enough. I would like to be able to play the radio at a show for a few hours with out worrying about a dead battery or to be able to use an inverter to operate my laptop without problems. What do you all think. I was concerned about working it too hard during the process of getting the engine up and running. Maybe I can find a smaller more powerful battery. Optima?

Hello again. Still putting this LT1 together. I'm now exploreing the placement of the computer and have considered putting it where the battery normally goes . That would mean, ofcourse, relocating the battery. I have read a lot of the posts on this subject but most are 2 or more years old so what is the current view of the Odyssey Dry sell batteries. Model PC 680MJT is small and would fit under the pasenger seat but would it be a good choice. It claims a 680 Cranking Amp ability but has any one had any recient experience with these batteries. Customers at a NAPA parts store today spoke very highly of them. Thanks for any input. Larry

Greg, never mind. Got my handy dandy mirror out and was able to see what was back there, One plate on the intake and one each on the exhaust manifold which I no longer have. I"m having the plate shipped to me as I write this. Thanks for your help. Larry

Thanks Greg. I got the part about moving the engine forward. As it turns out I don't think that will be necessary. It's already too tight in the tunnel so moving the engine back would't be good. Forward maybe. As for the egr port on the mauifold. that's what I thought I would have to do , make a plate but I wanted to be sure the port was not needed before blocking it off. Glad to know about the kits. I suppose I just do a search for egr block off kits for LT1. Is that correct? You use holes as in plural. I am talking about one hole that has 2 studs, maybe 1/4" sticking out of the manifold back side. Is there more than one. Real hard to see back there. Thanks Larry

Whmmm MSA or Datsun parts on Ebay maybe? They both sell them

According to JTR 180's are squarish and 200's are round

Greg. looking at the situation again this morning, it looks like to remove the motor mounts as you suggest, I would need to remove the accessories and bracket to get to the front bolt. I also notice that since this a 240, not 280 like yours is I believe, the tunnel is tight. In fact there is less than 1/4" space between the firewall and the bell housing as it is with out trying to move everything back even more. It looks like he hammered the firewall a little already on the pasenger side to get it in this far. Plenty of room on the drivers side due to the JTR offset to one side. Is this 1/16" clearance to the steering shaft likely to be a heating problem? Thanks Larry

Yea the web site is under costruction. I have the ones that came out of the GM slave and master which should get me going if I don't screw them up. But if I get in a bind, I'll give you a shout for your pins. I was just expecting to get them with the adapters, I haven't recieved an answer to my email to CarShop yet. Kind of tells me a little something about them. Thanks again Larry

Well when I told the driveline shot what the length needed to be, I told them to allow 3/4" for movement so I wouldn't have anything bottoming out. Well they gave me abiout 1/2" barely when I test fitted it. They said that they would redo it if I needed it done but the problem is I should have made sure that this engine installation was done right before I had the DL made. My fault. I new that the install was not done right because I could see the trans mount hanging down below the frame rails. The recessed areas for exaust in the JTR bracket are suppose to be up in between the tunnel walls instead of hanging down below the frame rails so that, for sure, has to be redone. As far as elongating those holes. Do you think it's worth the effort. I don't have a cherry picker but I could rent one or I could just raise the engine up and support it to do the mod. I probably could raise it up on my large floor jack and then roll the jack and engine back, carefully, enough to get a tool in there to cut the hole bigger if this is really necessary. What do you think? As for the reverse lockout, I don't know why it was removed , wish I did, but I will be putting it back on the trans. On another note. This guy removed the secondary air piping which has a port in the back of the intake manifold held on with (2) 1/4" or 5/16" bolts. I think this equipment has been deleted in the computer but right now there is just a big hole there in the manifold. What is normally done? Make a plate or something? AS I mentioned, the oil pan has been opened up by this guy. Would you think it a good Idea to pull the pan and take a look around. I don't know what I would see unless I started pulling caps off. What do you think. Thanks for you help with this project. You are always a big help. Thanks Larry

Y280Z, John Washington Look in CraigsList Orange County CA. There is a set of rear fenders from Washington. Here is the link. Hope this helps but as far as I am concerned, I won't deal with the guy. He's asking $500. I would buy them from Washington if I wanted set. http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/967248645.html

Yea, when checking the motor installation, I noticed that the frame brackets were not elongated per JTR. This guy didn't do any of the engine bay prep or engine prep work before craming in the engine. I have already had the driveshaft shortened so it's a little late to be moving the engine back unless it is absolutely necessary and if so I will just have to have the drive line redone. Also elongating the holes now with the engine in may not be possible, What do you think. Also I just discovered the this person has taken out the reverse lockout solenoid and left a hole in the side of the trasmission. I wonder what his plan was or if he had one. Can this hole just be blocked off and not use the reverse lockout? Needless to say I am checking everything that was done. I Think I should pull the pan and look around as he told me the he did this just to check the babbit wear on one rod and one main and then he replaced the oil pump and buttoned it up. I wonder what he saw. He said everthing looked good but what does he know and did he get the caps torqued on properly. This thing could turn out bad and it makes me nervous when I see that no prep work was done. What else? Thanks for your response Greg. Larry

Hey Greg. You warned me a little late. the order was in and guess what. Russell does not supply the round pins but McCloud does. The adapters are usless without the pins, I have requested that Carshop find some and send them to me. We will see

Rod I miss that about the -4 in the JTR manual. I have been given conversion instructions from a few people on this site and I believe they have all talked about using -3 lines. I talked to my hydralic shop about the need to use a -4 line in between a two -3 fittings, because that is what the OEM slave has and also the tilton has, and would that be an improvement. They said that they didn't believe there would be any need. I believe that the volume that you would gain is the result of the size of the Master Bore that is why I use the 7/8 bore rather that the 3/4 bore that JTR specifies. My hydralic shop also told me that they didn't have a fitting to enlarge to a -4 line from a -3 but I suppose somewhere there is one. Larry

GVincent. Do you see any problem with having only 1/16th inch clearance between the headers and the steering shaft. I mean it is tight, Any heat problems do you think. I have the Sanderson headers with the JTR set back. Thanks Larry

Hey to let everyone know . I have a LT1 using Sanderson blockhugger headers with the JTR set back mounts and while they fit they are reeeeeeally close to the steering shaft, missing by maybe 1/16th inch which I don't like. I am afraid that the headers will light up the shaft causing heat related damage to the Rack and Pinyon box and the heat may migrate up the shaft to inside the car to the steering wheel and electrical. As I see it there isn't much I can do, however, with these headers except adjust them with a big hammer. Any Ideas?

Thanks to evryone on this site ans especially Gvincent here is what I did: Auto zone had the 92 Camaro slave Part #10380 (metal) price $59.99. They also had a composite one for $53.99 but interestingly it did not have a bleed screw. Carshopinc.com had the -3 conversion fittings, part# 640281, 2 for $19.95 plus $10 for shipping, ouch. Necessary to connect the GM slave to the -3 line Tilton Master from AASCO (714-758-8500) $100. They build parts for race cars and build the race cars themselves. Porches. I bought the 75-875U because it is shorter and will not require moving the Winshield washer tank whereas the 74-875 would have. 875 = 7/8" bore. They both have the same stroke 1 1/8". They use the -3 line The braided steel -3 line I purchased for $45 from a hydralic hose shop, straight -3 fitting female on one end and a 90 degree female fitting on the slave end. 36" in length. The G M hose was 24" and about 12" too short if you are picky about how you route the line. So for about $210-220 I should be able to disengage the clutch. And all I thought I needed was a master? I could save $60 if I could learn how to bleed the existing Camaro Slave since it doen't have a bleed screw. I am told by everyone on this site that it can be done so I will be trying. I'm still waiting for the adapters. Larry

Jody, thanks for those links. I trying to figure the best approach. The lines end in the wrong spots too so some how I need to get them re-routed. I almost think that I will have to take them off and have them re-worked. Thanks, Larry

Greg, do you have part numbers and a source for those quick connects. Thanks, Larry

Thanks everyone. I meeting with someone here locally that has done a few of these LT1 swaps into Jags and such . I'll see what he has to say. deja, I have 60lbs because I am using a stock 5/16 presure line. Helm's Shop manual for this engine specs 41 to 47 lbs. So with the 5/16 I figured 60 would be good. There is a fuel regulator that keeps the presure from getting too high. Larry

Ok, Thanks to every ones help here on this site and some at Hydralic hose shop, I've got the Master slave bleeding problem and connection issue done I think. Now it's on to the fuel delivery system, I have installed a 81Z turbo fuel pump with a Fram fuel injection filter in front of it per JTR and now have 60lbs of pressure to the front of the car, But how do you connect the GM fuel pipes on the left side of the engine with the Z pipe on the right side. How do you get around the GM quick disconnects? What has to be done? Thanks again for the help. Between us all, this car will be running soon I hope. No, I'm sure

Yes, Thanks but I just discovered that the Tilton master I just bought doesnt have a bleed screw either, So now th ink I am left with bench bleeding the complete system one part at a time to get the air out. Your incident at the track is interesting because you would think by pumping the master all you would be doing is forcing air to the bottom of the slave, It must find its way up and out. All of this bleeding is going to have to be done on the bench because I can't have this DOT3 getting any where near my paint. Thanks. Larry

Mark, the problem with your method is that the slave does not have a bleed screw. Some one else has told me to force the air out of it in a vice and fill it by hand with fluid and then connect the line. He didn't say it but I believe bleeding the master is also necessary. The remaining air should move to the top and escape.Thanks, Larry

Greg, Thanks for the numbers and here is the result. Auto zone had the 92 Camaro slave Part #10380 (metal) price $59.99. They also had a composite one for $53.99 but interestingly it did not have a bleed screw. Carshopinc.com had the -3 conversion fittings, 640281, 2 for $19.95 plus $10 for shipping, ouch. Tilton Master from AASCO (714-758-8500) $100. They build parts for race cars and build the race cars themselves. Porches. I bought the 75-875U because it is shorter and will not require moving the Winshield washer tank whereas the 74-875 would have. 875 = 7/8" bore. They both have the same stroke 1 1/8". The braided steel line I will get I hope from a place here in southern California called "The Hoseman". I understand that they make every kind of Hydralic hose you can imagine, once I decide on the correct length. Probably about $30 or so. So for about $210-220 I should be able to disengage the clutch. And all I thought I needed was a master? I could save $60 if I could learn how to bleed the existing Camaro Slave since it doen't have a bleed screw. Any Ideas on how this can be done? Thanks for all the help. It costs a few bucks but at least I believe it will work as it should. Larry

Greg, thanks. I'll be waiting for those part numbers when you get a chance. Larry

How on earth can you connect to and bleed a camaro slave when there is no bleed screw. I'm using a Tilton 85 series Master or at least plan to.