lgoodson@pacbell.net

Thanks Greg. I spoke to Tilton today things Here's what they said. In essence the larger the bore the harder the petal pressure. So to soften the stiffness you would need to reduce the bore size but that may cause not enough fluid to be available to completely release the clutch. JTR recommends the 3/4" while almost everyone on HybridZ says to use the 7/8" and forget JTR. I can see why JTR recommends what they do but I have read that some complain of a release problem. Doesn't completely release. The other option is to lengthen the clutch arm, more leverage, by extending it at the petal or by raising the pivot point which doesn't look feasible on my car at least. They also say that the needed size should not be larger than the Slave's bore size which for a stock Camaro I believe is 1". I could go up one making my petal harder. Also they said to check the ratio between the distance of the clevis to pivot point divided into the distance of the petal pad to the pivot point. Should be 5.5 or greater for easier petal pressure. For now I think I will stick with the 7/8". I am afraid the 3/4 might not work and I don't have the car up and running to test them out. They are a $100 apiece too. Thanks Larry

Well I am happy to say that this weekend I was able get a couple of things put together instead of always taking things apart. First I hooked up the throttle cable using the Lokar 1000TP and modifying the Datsun gas pedal. Had to tweek it to the right and drill the ball out for the clevis to fit. Worked good. Secondly I installed the Tilton clutch master to the stock Firebird slave and it works good also except the petal presure is quite high. Seems too high but I don't know as I haven't driven a Firebird but shifting this 6 speed might get a little tough in traffic. I have read most of the posts on this site and most people say to use th e 7/8" piston instead of the 3/4" that JTR reccomends and I believe one person said to use a 1" piston Wildwood I believe. Can anyone tell if I did something wrong or is this the stiffness I should expect?. Haven't started it yet so don't know if it is releasing properly. Thanks, Larry

Same question to everyone Not too technical. I have been fitting a 280Z tank into my 240Z, The tank has a 3" deep sump. Ground clearance is the problem I think I might have, The car has been lowered a couple of inches I am told. Right now it is up on Jack stands which I believe is a rise of 9". Measuring from the bottom of the sump to the floor I have 15" minus the 9" rise that leaves me only 6" once the car is back on the ground. Now I know alot of people use these sumps for racing and what not but does this sound workable? __________________

Here's a question for you. Not too technical. I have been fitting a 280Z tank into my 240Z, The tank has a 3" deep sump. Ground clearance is the problem I think I might have, The car has been lowered a couple of inches I am told. Right now it is up on Jack stands which I believe is a rise of 9". Measuring from the bottom of the sump to the floor I have 15" minus the 9" rise that leaves me only 6" once the car is back on the ground. Now I know alot of people use these sumps for racing and what not but does this sound workable?

Come to California! Check this post. Maybe what you a lookin for. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143942

I have gotten one at this point but it has problems. If I can't get it fixed I'll let you know. Imagine, welding the fuel sender opening closed then covering it over with undecoat so no one can see the welds and then saying that you just sealed it. Ya I guess.

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I am looking for a fan controller made by Delta Current Control specificly the model FK35 if any one has one that they are not using. Let me know. Any other options anyone might know of except me just hard wireing a couple of relays in. Thanks Larry

I have been told by people that make harnesses that you need 12 volts to the " L" terminal on the alternator but you must put some resistance in line so as not short it out. This 12 volts will "excite" alternator and turn it on. Keep It clean guys. 350 OHM 1/2 watt resister is what I was told to use, Available at Radio Shack I believe. The 12v should be keyed

Ya If I can get them bent I was just going to have the -6 fitting welded on. I tried to bend them. They loos like allumunum but maybe they are stainless. Where's my magnet. Oh thats right . A magnet won't wok on stainless.

Do you happen to have the part # for that alumimum fuel line. All I can find in their catalog is 3ft and 6ft lenghs. I think I will need at least 7 to 8 ft . Did the frame rail additions help or can you tell? Baddog or Maddog Rails?

Well for starters they are up along the top of the tunnel not down at the frame rails and floor boards. Big difference. Although I don't think that there would be a problem, but there is a chance that a rock or speed bump could connect with the lines that are simply attached to the bottom of the floor boards Tell me, You don't have any problem with numerous connections along the way? Leaks? Where did you look for those corvette LT1 fuel Lines? Ebay or where and what year were they for?

Ya, with a 280Z you actually have a frame rail but with the 240 the rail stops half way back and then the lines would be completely exposed, Any other Ideas?

Thanks Deja. I]m collecting various approches to the design so thanks a lot, Larry

What is the preferred method of running a new 3/8" fuel line in a 240Z for an LT1, What side of the car and how do you attach it to the car and how about bending it to fit. With the JTR kit, things are a little tight on the passenger side but that is where all of the existing lines are to maybe zip tie the new line too. Any Ideas? Thanks Larry

I want to run this 2-speed Taurus fan using my PCM, The PCM is designed to operate 2 seperate fans? Instead of 2 fans. can it be set up to run the 2 speeds. Anyone done this? Thanks for the help Larry

I want to run this 2-speed Taurus fan using my PCM, The PCM is designed to operate 2 seperate fans? Instead of 2 fans. can it be set up to run the 2 speeds. Anyone done this? Thanks for the help Larry

Techrods.com Has any one used these people to do a harness for their conversions. I talked to them today and Shane sounded like he knows his stuff but I can't get him on the phone. I have to wait for a return call which never comes most of the time. I'm having the same problem with the rest of them though. Speartech, Enginewiring.com and EZ2Wire.com. No return calls and no return emails. Hell of a way to run a business. Who is everyone using? You kind of hate to send off your harness or your money when you can't even get a person on a phone. What if there is a problem?

Gee I don't know but I have a 71 240Z. It has a 5/16" line and a 3/16" line on the passengers side. One is the fuel feed and the other is I believe the canister line (evap). On the drivers side there is a 1/4" line at one fuel block. I believe this was for the return line for the twin carb set up. The engine was already gone when I got the car. For my LT1, the factory pipes are 3/8 and 5/16. The return line needs to be able to handle the return fuel without building up presure at low RPM's but not be too big so as to keep the fuel pump from building enough presure when the engine needs it at high RPM. I will be converting my prsure line to a retun line and adding a new 3/8" presure line. I will also have to change the lines into the tank which I will be changing to a FI tank as soon as I find one.

I have the same problem and slotting the mounts would allow the engine to move back just enough to get the 1/16th inch. The steering shaft runns at an angle inward so moving behind it allows the clearance. The farther you go back the more clearance you have. Unfortunatly with my 240z if I move the engine back I hit the firewall on the passenger side with the bell housing. Not good. Vibrations and such so my holes are not slotted. But I do have the 1/16th inch so you must have something wrong. Make sure you have the large spacer on the drivers side and the narrow spacer on the passenger side and they are located between the engine block and the Chev motor mounts and not between the motor mounts and the Datsun crossmember. Makes a bid difference

WTB a 280Z Fuel tank to fit a 240Z in southern California. I think a 75 to 77 or 78 will work

Does anyone know how to determine by looking at the outside of a tank, what a 280Z fuel injected tank looks like as apposed to a non fuel injection tank like a 240Z, Just trying to figure out which one I have. The PO told me it had a 280Z tank but how can I be sure? Thanks Larry

Gee, hoov100. What kind of battery?

So Bartman, you put an Optima in your car. Where abouts? in the stock location or in rear or what? If you are racing the car I suppose you don't have any need for a spare. If you kept the stock location where did you locate the PCM. I am looking at tucking it back behind and under the inspection lid out of site with the smaller battery sitting in front of it. On another note, since you too have an LT1, how did you get the wiring figured out? Any help or direction would be appreciated. A lot of people have chimed in and they have been a lot of help and I'm getting it figured out but not quite. Thanks Larry

Starting a car in gear is pretty hard on a battery so the 680 I think did very well. It's a motorcycle battery not a LT1 or LS1 battery. You know, everyone talks about leaving the lights on. Just how long should a battery last with the lights on. With headlights I would think maybe a half hour or so. How do you rate these batteries and how long exactly do they last with the lights on. I need a frame of reference. Thanks for the input. Trying to make a decision here, 680 or 925. Larry