lgoodson@pacbell.net

I am looking at a 240Z and looking at the paint I notice there are stress cracks at the top of the hatch on the roof, running from the hatch opening to the rear window and I notice similar stress cracks on the roof at the front windshield posts. Is this typical for a 240Z or does it indicate more serious problems? Thanks for your help. Thank you, Larry

Thanks for the info The car is a very clean 71 backed up with a t56 Not running, just sitting in the frame. As I am told it needs the drive line shortened 3/4", a high pressure fuel pump, Exaust and of course the wiring. This came out the same car complete with all of the electical still plugged in. Owner say all that is need is to connect to 12 volts and it should fire. JTR complete kit was used including the headers(sanderson) and alluminum radiator. Body and paint is near mint, the paint MIGHT have a small ding or two, Interior is new, Dash pad is cracked, no air. The rated hp for the year model engine is 300 ponys. Not a lot but respectable pushing 2800 lbs. The rear end is unknown at this point. It has been changed out once or twice. Doesn't have real low gears. Should get pretty good mileage. The owner seems to think that the opti-spark is a plus. For this price I don't think I could touch a complete & clean LS1. That was my first choice. I can alawys swap it out later Anyway I'll be into this thing for $4500 with the 2.8 pull ou that has been dressed up with poilsh and header.

Just a quick question for all you experts which I certainly am not. I almost ready to by a Z with a LT1 but I wonder if I should be looking for a LS1 or better. This LT1 has about 118,000 miles on it. Is there any problems with these LT1's or for that matter LS1's that I should know about before it's to late? 118,000 miles, does that sound like a lot for a LT1 that reportedly has had good maintenace prior the 93 firebird's demise. I have heard that there were problems with the LS1 engines, spun bearings and the like. Does anyone have an opinion? Thanks

Hi, I am looking for a LS1 or LS2 with a manual trans installed in a 240Z to 280Z that is California smog legal. All cars considered. I am currently looking at one with a LT1-T56 Need a response today or it wiil be too late as I am scheduled to buy this other car Friday If it is a SO CAL car I will look at it today.

Check the door post

A few stories, First I had a problem with not being able to drive more than a couple of miles before the car would come to a complete stop and couldn't be moved an inch! It would cool down for 15 or 20 minutes and then I would be able to go another 2 or 3 miled before stoppind again. Problem? Brake Master even though I had already replaced it from Kragen Auto. If this is happening to you and you continue to drive under power you could haved burned your clutch, Second. Blowing a belt is not required. It may look fine at a glane b ut closer inspection might reveal cracking on the inside and therefore probably a slipping belt. A recent brake job? Was it done right? Rear brake seizing = clutch burn. From the way you decribe your hand brake operation, I would pull the rear drums and check for proper installation, if you can get them off that is. That's all for now

Oregon? Avoid SE Portland Known as felony flats and North portland, You'll see why. I am originally from that part of the world (Mt Hood) so I know it well

My 75 280 has a filter built in thr the pump inlet which gets dirty. It can be removed carefully (very). You have to kind of dig it out. I use a small screw driver.

Arizona z car has them and so does Pallnet

Everytime I try to post a picture of my car, this site tells me that the file is too big and I haven't figured out how to reduce it. Trust me though, the green is purdy and I am not a green kind of guy. 64 vette Riverside red is my number. But I like my Z.

Correction: 1975 Emerald green metalic #303

How about 1978 Emeral Green Metalic code 303. I've never seen another one on the street. Saw one in the wrecking yard though.

Who in the heck is BD?

Yea there is, and you have to get a pump to pump it in. I usually buy the gear oil in a 1 gallon bottle which comes with a pump. Not all of the brands do.

Davy, When you say "glassed over" , do you mean fibre glass, Metal to fibre glass glassing or what? I didn't know that you could go from fibre glass to metal without problems.

What is it and where do I get it. I am trying to stop this oil leak that I have fighting for over a year now. Thanks

Iv'e ask this question before so maybe this is unusual, but I have a oil leak that I can't seem to stop. I have changed the oil pan gasket twice and the rear main seal once. Some one told me that they have had a problem with the oil gallery rear soft plug behind the flywheel. Has any one had a problem with these?

Up date: I have now replaced the pan gasket twice and the rear main seal once. I still have the leak. 2 or three drops a day and the engine is not even being run. Still up on Jacks. Some one told me that the engine has a oil gallery that runs from the front to the rear and is plugged with soft plugs. They said that they had a instance where this plug leaked very slightly. Has any one heard of these oil gallery plugs leaking. According to the book How to Modify your Nissan, They say to drill out and tap these plug holes and install pipe plugs with epoxy. Any one heard of this? I don't want to pull the transmission and flywheel again just to look for a "Maybe" leak but there is no way to tell with out doing it.

This leak is persiatant but so am I. I have changed the pan gasket twice and the rear main seal, the large round one, and still I have a leak with the car just sitting on jack stands. So I read in a book written by Frank Honowetz (How to modify your Nissan)that you should remove the soft plugs at either end of the block which is at the ends of the oil Gallery and replace them with threaded plugs laced with epoxy to seal them. I haven't removed the trany again yet but has any one had a problem with this soft plug at the rear leaking?. I just came from MSA where they have a block in the show room and looking at it I see a indentation above the crank hole and to the right that must be the soft plug in question. It's about a 1/2 inch in width. No body there new that it existed but I have had another person tell me that they have had one leak. MSA does not sell the replacements but I think Autozone does. They sell a bag of assorted plugs. Has anyone had the leak problem? Thanks for the help

I know where there is one in storage but you'll have to put it together. A school shop teacher has it in Orange County CA . Students took it apart and never put it back together. Has 2 new fenders still in boxes. If interested let me know. It's cheap. Good V8 project car

Where can I get the rubber type. All I find is paper or rubberized Cork from Pep Boys or would that work? It's FelPro

Don't remember whether it was cork or not. Maybe I ccan call MSA and ask them. The stud would help keep the gasket aligned better. This pan has metal plates that go on before the bolts go in so I checked for dempled bolt holes but not too closely. With the back up plates. I thought that wouln't be a problem. I seem to recall having trouble keeping the gasket aligned properly. At the rear of the pan you can't see behind because of the engine back plate. I was a little concerned with that. About taking the pan off. Can it be done without raising the engine? Thanks, Larry

OK, I used the brake cleaner and completely de-oiled the lower engine. IT WAS DRY. Left it sit for a day and checked for leaks. None seen. Left it sit for another day and I see a thin trail of oil coming fron the oil pan under one of the pan bolts which means nothing.THe block on either side of the pan is dry, nothing coming down from the head area. Must be a pan leak. Mind you, I haven't started the engine one time through this effort. Oil just sitting in the pan is leaking out. Does that sound right to anyone. I just changed the pan gasket. Bought it at MSA and used a lot of Permatex Sealant and still I have a leak. What is the trick to getting this pan sealed up. I heard someone recommend using studs instead of bolts. Is this necessary because I'll do it if it stops the leak. Can the pan be removed without raising the engine. I have a 1975Z. Maybe by rotating the crank or something?

Still don't know where to get one, but that was an interesting thread.