240zBoy

I could not put these pictures into a private message so I will put them here for you and anyone else to see if needed. I hope this helps. If anyone else has better pictures or what not throw them up cause this topic is not covered to well. PS: SHFTY you can try Zspecialties.com, if you actually go to the store they are in snohomish. A bit pricey but he knows his stuff and has everything.

Ordered Tokico hp Struts,Eibach springs, and 4 piston front brakes from MSA. I am currently painting the wheel wells, have the passenger side done and one of the rear struts/springs in. To Do List: 1. Paint all the wheel wells. 2. Find an r200 diff and mustache bar 3. install the struts and springs 4. Install front brakes 5. Find a new front bumper maybe both. 6. Order MSA type 1 front spoiler

ROVDriver- That is by far my favorite Z-interior I have seen. Love the dash and console suede covers you have to. 6/5:flamedevi

I can pick up an r200 lsd out of a q45 for a $200 and have been searching to see if it is do able or worth it and came up with very little information to what I need. I am going to be running about 300 horsepower out of a chevy 350 most likely attached to a borg warner t-5 and I figured I need an r200 while I am at the suspension. Is it worth the trouble of having to modify this diff much more than say a 280z r200. Also I heard the gear ratio is around 3.5 and with a 5 speed i believe the high rpm's problem on the highway would not matter? Please help me out. If you were in my shoes what would you do?

I have chrome bumpers on my 72' that have dents in places and rust. Since I plan on painting them black can I hammer the dents to a generally stock location, than use fiberglass or bondo to get the bumper back to original. I am wondering cause I see no body doing this and was wondering if there was a reason as to why so I do not ruin a set in alright condition. I have been looking through the forums for a couple days and it seems everyone just buys new bumpers or salvaged ones without dents. Any help would be awesome as I am approaching this very soon in the build

I am restoring a 240z and I am on my suspension and brake setup right now. Being this is not a race car I do not want to go crazy but still want the drop and need to get rid of the stock springs at the least. I am going to go with tokico hp struts at this point with the eibach springs at MSA along with a 4 piston front caliper kit on the front. It's somewhat budget friendly but I really do not need the new struts as my stock ones are pretty good. I just want the drop of about 1 inch. Any ideas? Can I use stock strut with an aftermarket spring and still get the drop? Or is it worth it to get the struts to for the extra 300 or so?

I had to replace the floorpan rails and the frame was not to bad so I reinforced it with a peice of angle iron and 18 gauge sheet metal. So I was in the same boat as you and could not afford someone else to do it so I borrowed a friends mig welder. If you could do that it WILL be cheaper but maybe not as pretty. Start on your floorpans first cause no one will see that and will get you the practice and technique down. Just an idea unless you would rather have someone else do it.

Tried to help you out a bit. Here in this link the seats fit in the 280zx. So find out the seat dimensions needed for a 280zx and then yours and theres your answer. Sorry I didn't have the time to finish up my project but if ya have the seats, if they are wider than 21'' its really gonna be hard to fit (thats for a 240z, 280z have to have slightly smaller). http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114021&highlight=300zx+seats

Go to interior section and its a sticky

Orange, black, grey, white, red, poop orange. Pretty sick combo:icon56:

Ended up borrowing a family friends welder for much less than buying one. I went crazy with that thing all though I am not going to lie it was not that pretty:mrgreen: Good thing I went out and bought seam sealer and a grinder if I ever need it. I welded in a frame reinforcement, both driver and passenger pans, battery tray, rear panel support for my new panel that always rust out on the hatch seal, and a little up on the passenger wall as the pictures show. Sprayed it all with some black primer to keep the surface rust away as it was starting to come. The neighbors must have been laughing when they saw me with a rattle can hitting every peice of bare metal. Next step is a little fiberglass work on the wheel well and then por-15. Must say I am really pleased with how this is all going besides that my rather large battery I just bought will not fit anymore lol BTW If a moderator sees this could you please " PRETTY PLEASE " move it to the s30 section so people can comment and give me advice.

HAHAHA I think we all know that feeling. Lets say we all become pro at using the search feature:mrgreen:

Thanks Bartman that was just what I needed. I knew more then one place had them and there $35 less.

Alright:mrgreen:, The only dissadvantage to the rims is the wheel pattern of 4x100 but then again every one is in that boat unless you got in on the group buy for 16's or something. Correct me if I am wrong but is modern motorsports the only place to sell adaptors cause they are pricey:shock:

So with a max of 300hp if the 15 is acceptable then that would be awesome. The RB 15x8's I am going for with 5mm spacers. Keep the opinions coming.

I have a street v8 build in process and just love the look of 15 inch rims on the 240z's without a fender flare. The problem is that the tire size is 225-50 so I wanted you guys to let me know if that will be able to hold 280-300hp? I have heard that I need to go to 16 but without flares I just think the 15's with that tire size look so much sexier. In my eyes I think it will be plenty tire for that amount of power and especially if a decent quality tire is bought. I am not going to go to the drags and this is a street car but I still want to be able to have the option of launching from a start to prove the v8 to all my honda boys. Well lets see what everyone else thinks cause I don't wanna make a mistake here cause thats $$$

WOOOW Malice don't go that far. To most people on this forum the 305 is not really looked on as an option because the 350 swap does put out more power and can be picked up for the same price but there are other people with 305's on here before and they had actually pretty darn good results. Not to mention even low 200's horsepower wise which if you are determined could hit high 200's if ya do it right maybe more, will still put out a very fast street car. Possibly around the 13 second mark. Heck a stock 305 could get a lil z into the high 14's low 15's.

If you are not going to weld yourself then yes buying a clean shell is much more cost effective. As for that car why don't you ask him what transmission and rear end is in there because many members end up upgrading anyways. Also, it never hurts to send an offer:-D

Same decision just began for me. I ended up taking the learning experience route but in my situation cheaper. Bought the car in worse condition than what sounds this car was in for $300. CAR-- $300 Purchased MSA Floorpan Kit (Not worth it, make your own) for $315 Misc Metal--- $75 Borrowed friends welder--$100 Electric saw (Jigsaw was taking to long to cut out floorpans)-- $75 Total= $865 (If you take out the saw and made floorpans your self I could have been down around $600-$700) Granted the owner didn't know if the engine ran which I got it to (Ends up having a 280z 5 speed and I can get $200- $400 when I sell that setup right there), but its pretty rough and coming out anyways. All in all I got pretty lucky right there, but I waited a year to find a car for me out here in WA and if you wait long enough the deals pop up. Craigslist FTW.

Went to get a quote on welding today but was shut down and pissed after them telling me a quote of 3 g's. Not to mention being told I should dump the car and get a new body and that my dreams of a v8 will never happen cause the car will twist to peices. I guess I can only take it as motivation. Mostly because the actually frame rail (Pretty much our lil z's support) has to be replaced due to rusting out in which the floorpan rail must attach to. Which I told him I would buy the replacements for 400 online. I guess it takes $2300 in labor to get a guy to weld pans and one new rail in. Sadly the stock floor pan rails were holding on by about half an inch of rusted metal. At the time I just thought my new saw was a beast getting it out so easily:icon53:. So now it looks like I have to pick up welding. While I wait for that to come and me get practice at it ( A good 2-3 weeks ) I will be starting my body work. Lucky me, I find loads of dime sized holes all over the car hidden underneath bondo and primer from the last owner. So called repaired:nono:. What a large project for a kid who turned 16 last week:biggrin:. Atleast when I am done it can be practically called a ground up build lol. Plus with a welder I can properly repair the rust now and fabricate my own brackets for my seats. In the end a $$$$ saver and much cheaper than the welder prick.

I am looking for a pair of racing seats for my 240z. I can not decide on a place to buy because I only want to spend 350 at the most due to a budget build and can not find anything I feel is high enough quality for that price new. I am looking for a black pair that will accept a 4 point harness. Let me know what you got. -Thanks

Well I just flushed the fuel tank and purchased a working fuel pump and replaced the lines that I figured needed it. Not to mention I know the fuel gets to the engine cause someone put little shucks glass filters right before that I had to remove due to a leak and replace with a solid hose.

So I pretty much took this car out of a guys yard after he let it sit for 7 years. The major problem was the fuel pump and lines and a couple other things but anyways. I finally got this thing to turn over and get into idle but when I try to adjust the idle it dies, when I put the choke down it dies, when I tap the gas it dies, even after letting it run for a good couple minutes to warm up it still dies. Is the engine no good cause that's all I can come to conclusion with. If so atleast I have an excuse to drop in a v8.

I will have my floors and battery trail welded in pretty soon but throughout all my searching I can not find anything for my situation. I want the wheel well (cut out due to battery tray and cause the floors rust went up firewall) to flow well colorwise so maybe bed liner that also protects it against rust? But if I do that and use it on underside and top of floors will I still be able to put sound dampener on it. If anyone has ideas or ways they did it let me know. It needs to be a rust protector and blend the wheel wells/underside to blend the fact that new panels were put it in place. This is all DIY on a budget so PLEASE HELP ME.

Floors are cut out along with the frame rails to be out of the way for the msa floorpan and rail kit I purchased. I am currently making my templates for all my welds so I can have a buddy do it all in one trip to save money on u-haul. Atleast I got the stock engine running today after an oil change, new oil filter, Mystery oil to help break in, used craigslist fuel pump, and some rewiring. Once the pans are in I can atleast drive around so I don't have to pay for U-haul. Now for titling and all that crap:icon56: