240zBoy

Looks like I will soon have a new desktop picture!!!! Love everything about your Z

Take your time a good deal will pop up eventually

I got her off after some liquid wrech, time, and a little muscle haha. Thanks a lot zgeeser you pointed me right to it and saved me some $$.

oh gosh:fmad: But isn't everything on these cars hahahaha.

Trying to find it before I sell the stock l24 so I can use it for the chevy 350. I must be blind or having a brain fart cause I have no clue where it is. I just can not find the water temperature sending unit. If someone might have a picture or can describe it that would be awesome. Sorry for my stupidness. Yes I searched hahaha makes me feel worse now that I know I am the only one who can not find it hahahahaha.

Okay thanks a lot. That makes me much happier because it takes quite some work to get that differential down so I was hoping to do that another time and that seemed the only way to get the darn bolts off. I actually completely forgot about the fluid so my floor says thanks hahahaha. I Love This Website:trippen:

FOR REAL so those 4 bolts do not need to be touched if I am taking the motor and transmission out!!!!! and the shaft will just fall to the floor?

I have been trying to remove the driveshaft to get the motor and transmission out but the differential crossmember is really in the way and makes it really a bugger to get out. Plus the bolts have never been moved so they are on there good. I have noticed it is only connected in the back and looks to slide out of the transmission when bolts are undone. So here is my question... If I am to pull the motor and transmission while they are connected will the driveshaft slide out of the transmission or does that not work. I am just trying to avoid getting those bolts out as long as posssible before I replace it with an r200 for the v8.

Thanks RTurbo, Got to work on it yesterday and its all done woohoo! BTW that not rust on the spare tire well, it just has debris and a light on it.

Floors are all done now and I got my new bushings on. Decided to move to the hatch were I discovered even more rust underneath the sound deadener:icon45: Went to work on that yesterday and it came out good. Used the last of my por-15 and some more peal and seal. BTW that is not rust in the spare tire well, just debris from sanding the hatch floor and the light above.

Figured that it was the same as the stuff that was on my floors. Guess I better hope for the best that its only surface rust cause I just noticed it when I thought it was all gone.

Is that what it is, is more of what I am asking on the floor of the hatch area. Its on there in like sections but wanted to know if it is okay to remove that. I can lift large parts of it up and see rust underneath

I see surface rust under the "Sound Deadening?" that is in the hatch. This stuff is starting to flake up in big pieces and was wondering if that can come off? I see no one really with it off and yes I would replace it with different sound deadener I just do not want the surface rust underneath it to spread. Any help would be nice. Thanks

Just try to buy one off someone on craigslist used for cheap or Motorsportauto for like $60 if noise is only your issue. Unless you are lacking fuel pressure then that is much cheaper and as simple as undoing some bolts and being careful to not ruin your gaskets. Good luck.

For something like that you might want to search a Honda forum.

Dam that is a clean Z. I want it lol. 7-$9000 depending on many factors that can make or break a z-car and if you can tell it lives up to his statement of no rust and only 75k. Just my opinion though. Good luck on the car.

Finish all the suspension besides the brakes. Dropped the car a half an inch. Even found an r200 and mustache bar, plus picked up an engine hoist and stand. Got some pictures of the new floors. Painted with por-15 and then lined with stick and peal from lowes. Just gotta paint the bottom now.

To give you my perspective. 16yrs old never welded in my life. Had to replace the floors and reinforce/replace much of the rail, along with a battery tray, some of firewall , and a couple little things. Anyways, while you are at it you get a little weld happy lol. Did it myself cause there was very expensive quotes:fmad: Anyways, I bought the kit from MSA which to tell you the truth, it did not fit well, required a lot of cutting. Then paid to borrow my dads friends welder for a week. It is not fun work but after words its worth it. Welds were not pretty but nothing a little seem sealer and por-15 can't hide haahahaha. Total cost (included recirculating saw, extra sheet metal, fee to rent, gas refill, floorpan kit): $ ~450. Could be done cheaper if you don't make mistakes like me and have some tools i didn't.

LOL Subaru's because almost every teen with even a standard wrx thinks they are the next rally driver hahahaha:icon56:

Wow Thank You!!!!!! So Much. That right there is the reason I love this site. Saved me $100.

I broke apart the front ball joints with the castle nut on top with a pickle fork (I know some don't do this cause it ruins the rubber bushing but I had literally nothing there). So I have been putting it back together and need new rubber bushings or washers or boots or whatever you want to call them. I went to NAPA and Schucks today and all they had was the complete ball joint for $55 but to me I think I could find that piece maybe at Lowes that would work similiarly? If not do you know any where I can just buy the rubber between the joint and arm. Or have any of you guys used anything else cause it is really delaying my build right now and I do not feel like forking out $110 for two rubber boots.

Another option is try posting an add on craigslist for someone that has their own booth and experience. Tell them to send you previous work pictures. With this you can supply them with the certain paint brand you might want like dupont or whatever. Be sure to buy a quality primer. With your price range you will have no problem in getting it done (especially with economy) but you will have to do all the body work yourself before bringing it to someone most likely. If you want to bring it somewhere definately do the body work yourself or else you will get rediculously high quotes almost 100% of the time and you will end up saving a bunch of money. Why spend 5k on a street paintjob is how I see it. You can even try maaco but it varies on who is actually spraying the car's for a quality job and try to supply your own paint. I have heard of people being able to do that. and being right over a grand. Just my opinion hope that helps. I had been researching to.lol

I know this question sounds stupid but where do the two "pins" I guess you would call them go on the MSA 4 piston kit. I put the pads in then the 2 metal straight pins but can not figure out where the thin bent ones that are suppose to hold each side in go. It gave me no directions:icon56: so I am stuck trying to figure this darn thing out. If you know a link or have any pictures that would be awesome:icon44:

I don't know if it was just me but I thought the car looked pretty cool:icon44:

Dunno but cool find. Especially with that width:flamedevi