SHO-Z

The Stainless Steel trim covers the drip rail. Under it is a "L" shape that goes from the the base of the windshield to the end of the side window. The roof panel is connected to the unibody roof section at this point.

If I remember right when I cut my top off there was lead in between the layers of the drip rail. Datsun must use it as a sealer after it is spot welded. Be sure to clean all of that off or welding the seams back will not be fun.

There is another member of the club SK Racing, uses Weber Jets and venturis, and Makuni floats. They are now OERs http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124774

I have about $3000 in it now including the purchase price. Will add around $500 more when I get the supercharger installed with the triple SKs that have been sitting in the garage for the last year. The only thing that I didn't do is the paint.

From my understanding a true cowl induction has a sealed air filter with air coming in only cowl area only. NASCA uses cowl induction on their cars to use the high pressure area at the base of the window. I did a calc for one of the guys I work with who drag races a 67 Z28 and came out with about a 10 hp gain at 100 MPH on his 302. One of the options on the old Z28 was a cowl induction that fed thru the vent at the base of the windshield. Your system will have a HP gain due to colder air. It is still a great job that you are doing.

Try John Washington http://www.kitcarz.com/

I am really not into performance driving. When I take the car down a road with uneven bump I can feel some twisting of the cassis. The X bracing should solve some of this. With a V8 conversion I would say it is required. If you draw a cross section of the belly pan at the doors you will see that there is not a lot box sectioning without the roof.

I got that detail out of an old Kit Car Magazine. It was for a fiberglass kit like John Washington sells. It has kept my convertible together. I needs “X†bracing for tensional rigidly. I used 2†x 1†x 1/8†tube stock. It does limit the travel of the seats, but I am 6’1 and have not had a problem getting the seat back far enough.

Big old metal Office desk on casters. Took the center section and attached plywood across it to put my MIG welder on. The drawers are great and heavy duty. The best thing is you can find them dirt cheap.

If you cut in a T-Top you will need to reinforce the cassis just like a convertible. And Reinforce the cassis before cutting the top. I would also add X bracing.

Had to work on my B-Day in Alaska and the car is in AZ so couldn't even drive the thing.

I do not know if you want a project car? Here is one in AZ http://www.desertzassociation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1379

You might want to contact Arizona Z Car, he sold his molds to someone who is susposed to start production of them.

I think the Lotus 7 had SUs and the Super 7 had webers. The 7 had the rocker arm Cortina engine and the Super had the double overhead cam. I could be wrong a lot of water has went under the bridge since I have seen either on.

A TR-7 top and bows will work with some modifications. I have the bows and did a trial fit on them. I looked like other than reworking the windshield connection I need to shorten the side a couple of inches. I think it would be neat to make a fiberglass top that would make it look like an original coupe and have the best of both worlds.

Once Old School always Old school. Just like the metal where there is any question.

Just cut the whole darn top off!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It will take a few beers but what fun it is! On a roof I would look at using body lead for any body work after replacing the panel. This way you will never get any cracking. The roof is real flexable.

Look at this link. It is the best there is on swaping a SHO http://members.cox.net/rdgrauman/Healey.html I started a swap but gave up after all of the hassle I had with the wrecking yard. Got may money back and had a good learning experience. From looking back I would look for a V6 with an alumimum block to keep the weight down. The SHO is heavy with a CI block. It is also very tall and is not a small engine and fills the engine bay. If anyone needs it I can send them the wiring diagram on the engine and a sheet showing what wires are needed.

From my calcs 6 psi will give you about 184 hp or 167 RWHP 8 will get you 223 hp or 202 RWHP. Go to http://www.superchargeronline.com/ they have a HP calculator for supercharges.

A 5 speed out of a mustang will work with a ford areostar bell housing.

One last input on this one. I was a pipe welder during this time. Fittings made in Japan would weld like S**T modt of the time. The steel was soft and had impurities in it. You could see them float out in the puddle. On one project we had to cut out a lot of fittings made in Japan because of all of the inclusions in the fittings that they found in the x-rays. The early 70s Japan was converting from low quality products to where they are today. Korean fittings in the 80s where the same way and ones from India were a complete joke.

At the time that they were made Japan was importing a lot of scrap metal and using it to produce steel. The first Honda cars the fenders would rust thru in less that a year or so in some places. Their steel industry was not up to producing the high quality steel that they do today. There was also a rumor that some of the problems was that they were using a lot of scrap steel from the shipping industry and had a lot of salt imbedded in the steel.