SHO-Z

Here is my carb set up with plenum. As you can see my M62 is in the same area. Mine is supercharger on demand using the electric clutch on the supercharger

Well I we have a winner "Blue72" on the first sheet. And the Z engine should be an "I"6 by the old way of calling out engine types. I will wait a couple of more days on the other 2 engines.

Got my Corky Bell Book and was disappointed on no blow through carb info and not enough info on distributor modifications. I guess my Z is just tooooooooooo old. The book is still well worth the price for all of the rest of the info that is in it. I was really looking for information on distributor mods; right now I am planning on running a stock 280zx distributor only running the centripetal advance and removing the vacuum advance.

Look at a supertrapp disk only. You can tune it for sound an back pressure by adding and subtracting disks. They use them on track cars so should meet your needs.

Heck I would sell my convertible for less than that! That Pic is poor quality if you know what I mean. He needs to show it without the top up and a better angle. PT Barnum "There is a sucker born every second" or the rumor goes.

I keep hearing about the L6 engine in the Z. Here are some brain teasers on types of head designs. This book was published in 1918. See how many you can figure out. They are all alphabet letters. Now here is one showing that maybe some of the new designs are not so new. Hemi dome roller cam dual ignition. The last one is the real brain teaser, what type of engine and who made it?

I was a certified pipe welder for years welded both carbon steel and stainless. A good DC welder and flex head tig torch will do almost anything you want to do other that aluminum. I perfer the flex head to get into tight places. The ones with the knob for adjustment are the best, the rubber ones tend to work harden and break.

One more thing you need is a blow off valve. From my research if you do not have one you will blow your intercooler piping apart during motor braking. Found this on a TR6 supercharger upgrade.

Use something like Mallory 4305M Fuel Pressure Regulator 30-100 psi it is pressure sencing

1974 260Z Wil Hodges Buckeye AZ

When you get 1/2" of hood clearance on the SHO you have about 1-1/2" of clearance between the pan and the ground. The SHO is one tall engine. I fabed my intake spacers out of 3/8" phenolic laminate. I will be following your build, have fun.

It is sort of "OLD SCHOOL" of course I am OLD TOO!!!!!!!!!! 74 260z

I have a supertrap. It is suspose to be tuneable with the plates. I have not installed it yet so really do not know how well it works. I have seen pictures of road racers using them so they should work.

If you look in the link I have above it shows the WC T5 Trans will bolt up with aerostart bell housing and adapter plate. It also goes through the clutch set up. I sent him an email and he was very helpful.

I started a SHO conversion but had too many problems getting parts, couldn't deal with the AZ wrecking yards. Had the engine with the intake turned around and with wiring harness done. Then got my money back due to the wrecking yard not coming through with all that was promised. The engine is very tall, the pan needs to be trimed to get any ground clearance. This is the best write up on conversions on SHO: http://members.cox.net/rdgrauman/Healey.html I will send you a spread sheet on the wiring. Good luck

You might have a stuck piston in the carb. Put your finger in the carb as see if the piston moves freely. If the carbs have been sitting around for a while they could be varnished up and all sorts of things could be plugged.

Personally I like stripes, but I am OLD SCHOOL.

If the outer race is loose in the hub the hub us wasted. You should have to press them in, and I am not taking about a lot of force though. I use a hammer and a piece of wood most of the time. Time to go wrecking yard and get a new-used one.

How many Hybridzer’s are making decision on what to do with the Z based on to the high gas prices or the economy? I have for one. One example: OK some of you will call me stupid for not buying it, about a month ago I could have bought a 280Z with running 350 V8, 4 spd auto, dual exhaust, MSA ground effects kit for under $2K. All it really needed by the pictures was paint and the interior done. I passed it up, didn’t want to waste the gas driving the 40 miles each way to see it. I did finally decide to see it, in that I had to go that way anyway a few days later but it was gone. Oh well I couldn’t decide if I wanted to get anything that didn’t get decent MPG. Heck I haven’t put 2 tanks of gas thru my Z in the past year. I am still running gas that cost around $3 a gallon, what should I care. So are gas prices and the economy effecting your project decisions?

What PSI are you running on your L28? I am working very very slowly on my supercharged forced induction carbed L28. Do you have any HP numbers? I have a smaller M62 supercharger and will be mounting it in the same area. It is nice to see others supercharger in lieu of turbos.

Old School Method for Patch Panels: Clean both the patch and the back side of the body panel with a wire brush or sand paper until it is completely clean and shinny Lay the patch panel on the inside of the body and screw or pop rivet in place, get some soldering past and body solder. Use a propane torch and solder the panel in place, grind off the screw of pop rivet The old school body men would then use the body solder or lead to fill the difference between the two, no bondo allowed. A lot of the old cars came from the factory with soldered together body panels. I have used this procedure several time in the past, I use it to fill trim holes and install patches, but it is sure a lot easier with my mig welder. One thing on stick welding with small rod. 6010, DC Rod, and 6011 AC Rod, like a little moisture in them. This is why after welding with and restarting a 3/32 rod it likes to run like crap. I have found that wiping in down with a damp cloth helps. This is for celluloid rods only not the Low High rods.

I think this would be easier starting with 2 cars and cutting each of them just off center. This way you would only have one area to be concerned with. I have thought that it would be neat to do a 250 GTO with a wider fender set up about 4” on each side and change the suspension to something like is used on the kit cobras. I think every Hybirder around has there day dream on how they would change the body here and there. Find 2 old Cheap Zs and start cutting. And from experience of cutting up a Z it will take about 2 to 3 beers to work up the courage to make the first CUT!

I do think it looks neat and I do have a spoiler on my car. But I did see an article about a 911 normally aspirated in a car magazine a few years back. It was faster around a road race course without the spoiler. What it made up in corner speed was more than lost in straight away speed. Now it could be different on a Z, and I do prefer the look with a spoiler. Aerodynamics is real touchy what you gain somewhere you could loose somewhere else.

Mamba 888 I am planning on using one of these for the drive pulley. https://www.rpmoutlet.com/lightaspm.htm#2 There is a guy on the site that will build an adapter. Heck if it doesn’t work out right I have the turbo and manifold off of the spare turbo eng sitting under the bench.

TonyD is the most knowledgeable person on this subject. From what I have read in his posts you really do not have to do anything on the internals of the carbs. One thing that is neat on the HSK box is the internal baffling that is engineered to have the proper float bowl pressure compared to throat pressure on the carbs. I do have electronic ignition on my z. but if something goes wrong I would have to just through parts at it to get it running again. On my blow through project I will use a ZX dizzy using only the centripetal advance. One reason I am going with the supercharger is low RPM HP and a broad flat power curve. This tread need to be moved to turbo/supercharger.