SHO-Z

This is my proposed supercharger set up. Just bought the turbo engine a couple of months ago so have a back up if I blow up the old 280 engine. I don't like computers either. In most way I think I perfer points in the distributor and carbs. If it doesn't start I can always figure out what is wrong.

I want to wish everyone a happy and safe 4th. I cannot really celebrate it; have to work getting oil out of the ground up here in Alaska. But have a beer or what ever for me and have fun with your family and friends.

Please do a search, there is a lot of information on blow though set ups.

It looks to be set up for Mikuni or SK Carbs by the look of the top covers for the float bowls attached. I have about $30 invested in my plenum and I think it will work just as well.

Mallory makes a fuel pressure regulator #4309 that has a pressure sensing port. This needs to be connected to the plenum on the carbs. The float bowls need to be at a slightly higher pressure that the intake pressure to the carbs. Do a search there is a lot of info on blow through set ups.

This is about the cleanest L6 you could find. It is one of the members BARACU. You could possible remove a couple of things but who would want to. http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g186/BARACU/

The BMW already had a great motorcycle engine. Had one back in the 60s. Would love to find another. The things were fast too. I saw one at the Santa Barbara road races beat Mickey Tompsons 289 Falcon after starting behind all of the large sadans. Of course it was poped out to 1000CC. Took the 700 to hill climbs and othe events and almost alway won. It was more the car than the driver. No one back then really knew what class to to put it. It was way faster than the mini coopers and all of the rest under 1000CC. The NSU, Fiat Abarth, Some of the original Suzukis, Fiero, would be interesting. I would also look at some of the kit cars.

Get Collector car insurance on the Z. That is what I did on my 260, no emissions test required in AZ with it, but I do have a yearly milage limit. My 260 would not pass at idle, from my research a multi spark box would cure it.

Most likely you have excessive carbon build up in your engine. Hot spots in the carbon cause the dieseling. There are some comerical products that you spray into the engine when running that can help. One of the old school way is to to get the engine up to temp, rev the engine and dump water into the carb, sort of hard on a side draft. I have done this on V8 in the past an it did work. Personally I think you should go with one of the comercial products,

This is from an artical I found. Engine Compression There are a couple of areas in which optimizing an engine for naturally aspirated power and forced induction power are at complete odds with one another. Static (engine) compression ratio is one of those. Most musclecar enthusiasts are readily aware of the fact that increasing the compression ratio of a naturally aspirated engine results in more power per unit of fuel combusted. The amount of engine compression that can be run is limited by the fuel octane that will be used. Forced induction engines are fundamentally different in that two sources of compression are available: the compressor and the engine. Effective compression is the term often used to describe the impact of the external compressor on the combustion efficiency. So how does a lower static compression benefit a forced induction engine? Let's look at an example. Compare these two situations: 1) On a stock 5.0 with ~9:1 static compression it is found that a non intercooled supercharger can run a maximum of 9psi of boost without detonation. The effective compression is ~14.5:1 and 320 peak rwhp is produced. 2) Same engine/supercharger combination but with low compression 8:1 pistons installed. It is found that a maximum of 13 psi can be run without detonation. Effective compression is again ~14.5:1 but significantly more air is allowed to enter the combustion chamber. Peak rwhp is now 380. In both cases the same octane fuel is used.

I lived in Bellingham for 6 years and never remember any car show with the ski to sea. The big car show was in Lynden and there was a small one if Fairhaven. Things alway change after you leave.

I would contact the local Z club and find a L28 that someone has removed for a swap. I have seen several in the Phoenix area for $100. Install that in the car and tinker around with the other engine. Almost any type of high performance engine will require hi test gas and I think you need to keep in on the cheap side until you graduate.

I just bought one of those for $250 a couple of weeks ago, It also had a turbo motor, with every thing but the fuel rail and the mass air! I guess the exhaust manifold is the expensive part and all of the rest sell dirt cheap.

Middle of my 3 week work shift in Prudhoe Bay AK so work, work & work. Everyone else have a great weekend, think of why we have this holiday and say a little payer for all of our troops in harms way.

Are you running a ballast resistor? My 260 has one next to the coil. It drops the voltage to 9 volts to the coil. Also check your ground

I think it would be neat to try making a aluminum casting of the plenum before you weld it together. From the pictures it looks like it would be a simple task the angles look like they would clear the molds, and if you want to produce more of them would significantly drop the cost involved. Just Dreaming

My front fit just fine after very little trimming. The back was a whole different story. Some areas need trimming and others had about ¼ to 3/8†gaps. I finally had to just get it as close as I could and bolt it on. I went on the underside and fiber-glassed between the body and the bumper and filled the top with flexible body filler. The side pods were warped big time. I glued them on attaching them with flat head screws. These take time to fit. I am no body work expert and I got them to work.

What about the crank sensor off of a turbo engine? I just bought a turbo engine for my supercharged blow through carb project with this set up and was thinking of see what I needed to go individual coils.

Go back to that post and look at the HSK box. It does have decient flow patern and swirl and is construted from square tube stock. That is what made that entire post so good, there was a lot of other info in there.

It takes X hp to move the Z down the road at 60 mph. The same can be said to accelerate to get there. Lowering the weight and improving the aerodynamics on the Z is another mileage improver. Go trough the car and remove or lighten everything that you can. A full belly pan will improve the Aero on the car along with cleaning up the front end. As for the engine/ Air Pump, anything that will improve the air going in and out will improve the mileage. I had a 240 about 30 years ago and was getting 30+ mpg all of the time on the highway. All I did was drop the needles in the SUs. My all time best mileage car was a BMW 700 Sport Coupe that I had back in the 60s. Did a mileage rally in it and got 62 mpg, second place to a Morris Minor, am I really that OLD? Yea gas was 29 cents a gallon an I wages were in the $1.50 /hr range an we were concern about mileage!

Here is a picture of my box on a set of SK Racing carbs. I am setting it up for forced induction, via supercharger. OER are a later model of the SKs from what I understand. There is added HP to be had by getting cold air induction. Cowl induction would be another way.

Here is another http://www.reactionresearch.com/automotive.html

This is enough to cry it is a 1967 Toyota 2000 GT http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/photo/263986,8611,0,1493/1967_Toyota_2000_GT_Photo.aspx