SHO-Z

You might want to follow this post. I think this would be a great drag set up. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130372

[quote= spring is just around the corner so its done just in time....yeah!!! Yea both days of spring before the temp hits the 100° mark. Looks great, but all of your projects do!

There is a lot of information in this web site. DO A SEARCH!!! You could read for days on all of the information. I am in the middle of my supercharged blow through SK Racing set up. Draw through is the simplest set up.

Modify it like the old Healeys with a lay down windshield. YEARs ago in Cal they would measure the height of the glass. The angle didn't count so by laying it down you could be legal driving around with basically no windshield! The did frown if you didn’t have shades.

I do not know if these are stock or what on my SK Racings I have: 45 MM Carbs 34 MM Venturi Jets Mains 135 Tube F11 Air 165 Idle 50 I went to buy a 5 spd for $75 and bought the SKs for $100, not bad $175 for carbs and tranny! Now all I have to do is get off of my dead ass and install them!

Owned and raced Hobie 16, 18 and two 17s for years in Colorado and sailed a whole lot for the 2 years I worked on Johnston Island. Love to sail cats and always will. Have not sailed in 20 years now, is it really that long?

You have a pressure drop when going through any change of diameter. To get from the first chamber to the second chamber there is a restriction area. The ramp in and out will cause friction and create a pressure drop. The air going through the vent section should have a much higher velocity. Having this point at the intake ports should force air into the intake ports, it would be like using cowl induction uses the pressure at the base of the windshield to add air to a carb. From my fluids class years ago, this seams right.

How would it work if instead of the air coming in from the bottom it came in looking directly into the intake? The velocity of the air would add to the intake pressure and should increase the charge to the cylinder. Now after your modeling of the 4x4 box, I think I am going to add a diffuser pipe down the center of it with a 1-1/2" hole looking at each carb throat. I too vote for this post to become a sticky.

TR7 can be modified to work or go to http://www.kitcarz.com/ for a fiberglass top. The TR7 bows are the right size. It needs to be shortend and a new cap piece at the windshield fabed. From my research ztherapy had a video on how to do the mods.

I would be interested in seeing what a 4"x4"x 24" long box with a 3" inlet would flow like. I think most of us start with this set up and modify from there. This is one of the best posts in a while.

I would go with the 305 at frist and then build a 302, 327 block and 283 crank when you get out of school. Same set up as a 68 Z28. Good HP and will realy rev.

Silversix the pictures are already out there, I saw these posted a couple of days ago on the site. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130025 There are few of us who will try to build our own boxes and others will just spend the cash on the real things. The comparison from this posts new tech design to the old tech HSK would be interesting. I for one would like to see it.

Don't laugh some guy got busted in Scottsdale by Photo Radar in a rented Hyundai at over 140 MPH! How many of our Zs could do that?

Thats a new Bimmmer, my first and only was a 62 BMW 700 Sport Coupe. Now thats and old bimmer.

I do not know if all of the Eaton supercharges are the same. I took my M62 apart to check the rear bearings. They were needle bearing packed with grease with no seal. Gas could wash out the grease. Mine came off of a SLK Mercedes and is made to run dry. I have also heard that gas will eat the teflon coating on the rotors. This is just a heads up, you might ask around.

I did a quick calc and you are in turbulent flow not laminer. Turbulent flow is with a Reynolds Number above 2000 assuming that the intake on the manifold is 3" Dia. @ 3000 RPM a 280 would have a Reynolds number (Re): Re = 65232.07. I do not think this will effect the modeling of the air flow. This is one interesting POST overall.

Get a fuel pump regulator with equiped with a return line hook up. This will keep the fuel pump happy.

Look at this post. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99330&highlight=supercharger&page=2 It looks like the same set up to me.

I had problems with some of my previous Z with vapor locking, 240 & 280. This only ocurred while pulling a long hill in slow traffic. I would only think of cutting off air flow if I had a LARGE electric cooling Fan and duct the air opening into the radiator.

This is one great exercise. I will be fun following it through fab and testing. One mistake on the spread sheet is the pressure drop though the intercooler. As the density and flow rate go up the pressure drop will increase. It will probably max out at about 1 psi. I really do not think this will affect you modeling calcs. Here is a calculator for all of the rest of us for compressible air flow though pipe. http://www.pipeflowcalculations.com/airflow/index.htm The pressure is absolute pressure so add 14.7 to your boost pressure.

If it is in the same location as the 260 it is on the drivers side on the outside wall. There are 2 flashers, one for turns and one for signals. I thought I had a problem with mine when it just quit working. Found out there was no power to it. I ran a new wire and it works great now. I seamed like no one carries the flashers.

I have been reading about this type of set up for the last couple years. From my reading with the Toyota 4 pistons in the front and the 280ZX in the rears you remove the guts from the existing proportioning valve and this works. I could be wrong on this.

Here is a quick calc for supercharges ((Super Charger Disp * Ratio * 14.7)/1/2 Eng Displacement) - 14.7 = Boost Pressure The max RPM on the supercharges is 14K which would give you about a 2.8 ratio or about 4.5 lbs of boost and about a 90 hp.

Honda 350XR motorcycle engine single cam with double rocker arms, one actuating the next, to get a hemi combustion chamber.

When looking at a compressor rating you are looking at constant use. Most of us do not use them 100% of the time especially while painting. Look for a decent compressor with a good size tank. You are only going to be painting the length of time to empty your gun. I only have trouble when using air tools that consume a lot of air and use them for a long time. And then it is time to take a break anyway.