SHO-Z

Gas Welding body panels is a lost art. The original Cobras were gas welded aluminum bodies. Some of the old steel cars were also gas welded or brazed together. If I was going to use gas I would braze it instead of welding with carbon steel. There would be less heat input and warping. Use a Mig welder.

If you run a wet supercharger you cannot run a intercooler due to possible explosion. I would be dangerous to have all of that volume filled with a gas mixture and have a back fire. Also on the eaton supercharge, from my research, gas will remove the teflon coating.

For general auto work a MIG welder with gas shield will work best. It is what the pros use for most work. I prefer Tig on tubing and pipe. Cheap welding machines are a pain to work with and will in most cases show it in the weld.

The one picture that I saw had the looked like it had the standard windshield layed down at a greater angle.

It will not twist. This is and end view, there are 2 bolts on the top and connection and there will be 2 braces on the bottom. A lot of air conditioner compressors have only the pivot bolt and one belt adjustment stay. Air conditioner compressors mountings are designed to accept the being turned on at high revs, causing a snap load to the mountings. If there is a problem with twisting on this design it will be a failure of the cast in supercharger mounts. This is the weakest link.

Here is what I have designed on the mounting of the supercharger off of the air conditioner compressor mounting plate. I will use the AC pivot bolt holes for the upper mount and brace back to the bottom of the mounting plate. I have an idler pulley where the old AC idler pulley was located. I am planning on keeping the supercharger as low as possible.

There is the wrecked car auto auction in Phoenix. I think it is on W. Broadway where all of the wrecking yards are west of the airport. It is open to the public, but you have to pay to register to get in and look. You night want to check it out.

On the draw through design there should be no real problem with the bypass. I have researched both set ups. For draw through a 500 CFM carb is required @ 6000 rpm and 9 psi of boost. In this set up I was looking at using a 280 FI intake will all openings not needed plugged off. An intercooler is out of the question on this design due to the possibility of explosion due to a back fire. One problem here from my research is that the Teflon coating on the supercharger rotors will come off. On the forced through I will have to go through the jetting and have to run the supercharger all of the time with no bypass. I have a set of triple 45mm SK Racing carbs that I bought. And this is the route that I am planning to go. Here is a picture of a SK Carbs and turbo set up.

Could you drill out both the head and the tower to a larger bolt size?

For a FI l28 I would go with an Eaton M62 off a Mercedes SLK230. It has a clutch like a air conditioner compressor. I would include a bypass around the supercharger. This way it could be turned off for normal cruising a Mad Max type of set up. I am in the design, and buying the components for my 9 psi of boost carbed superchaged L28.

I'm going the route of making changes to the crank pulley to change boost. This company makes 4 pulleys from 7.9 to 9.75" in diameter for $80 each. All I have to do is design and have machined the center addapter.

Welcome to the Dark Side of forced induction. I am in the middle of designing my supercharger project. I have an Eaton M62 supercharger off of a Mercedes SLK230. It has a clutch like an air conditioner and a short front shaft. I am planning on installing it where the air-conditioner compressor was located. The Eaton supercharger rotors are Teflon coated and have grease packed needle bearing in the rear. From looking at mine check that it spins freely and the coating. I am designing for around 9 psi of boost. I found a vendor that sells after market lower pulleys for the Ford Lightning that I am planning on using. Here is a rough spread sheet on HP to Boost.

To install on my 260z I removed the complete lower valance, bumper and supports. The air dam is supported off of the corner valance bolt holes and a drill screw on fender tire opening.

Check out http://www.arizonazcar.com for suspension parts and questions.

I have one on my 260 and it fit very well. I had big problems with fit on the rear bumper and side skirts. If these parts could fit as well as the front bumper I would have been a very happy camper. The mounting of this part is simple and easy to align. All you need is a drill and a set of wrenchs to install.

Check is good reading http://www.superchargeronline.com/content.asp?ID=104

Research, research, research. Get your self a binder and start searching the web on any information you might need on the swap. Print out anything that you feel is pertinent to your swap and put it in your binder. Find out what parts and tools you are going to need and their costs. Get drawing or make your own design of all of the parts that you are planning to fabricate for the swap. Check out your local emissions requirements. Hybridz web site will get you most of the information that you need and contacts on the project. Remember it is a two way street on information and lessons learned.

Here is a drawing of what I was planning to build. I am planning on running velocity stacks on the carbs, not shown. My carbs have a 9" or 229mm take off for the intake and carbs, so the 4" - 102mm tube stack will work.

Here is what I am looking at for a forced induction set up on my sk racing carbs. I am planning on using 4x4 aluminum tube stock with addapter plates on each carb. http://zacksz.homestead.com/somehotz.html Check this out now

Look at this web site but they are spendy. http://www.twminduction.com/airbox.htm

From the looks of it the exhaust valve on that cylinder is either badly burnt or bent. Do a comperssion test on the engine.

Congrats, just think you now have 5 hybrid z to build over the next 16 years.

try arizona z or zcars.com

Welding on SS requires a purge on the inside of the pipe also. There is a product called Solar Flux that can be painted on the inside of the pipe to elimate sugaring of the inside of the weld without a purge.

You had me thinking on this one. Has anyone looked at using Prosche 944 fenders/quarter panels for doing a wide body. This idea has been running around in the back of my head for while. It would be a metal construction wide body.