SHO-Z

Check out this web site for your answer on outlet Temp. http://www.turbosaturns.net/articles/compressor%20maps%20part%202.htm

I went through a similar problem a while back after putting coilovers on. I bleed the lines like I have done over the years and still had spongy brakes. I couldn’t figure it out. Then as a last resort I tried bleeding the master cylinder bleeds. Problems solved. I had never had to bleed a master cylinder before even with the system drained completely. You might also look at your rear brake adjustment.

On the old set up I figured out how to post pictures with the botton. But how do you do it on the new set up without the button?

I was looking on ebay and saw a set of triple weber clone carbs, looked just like SKs. I sent him and email and got this responce. "They are not SK Carbs, but their big brother. There were a lot of problems with the SK design. OER bought out SK 6 years ago and retooled the carb, hence the similarity. They are much better than the SK and weber and we feel on par if not superior to Delortos. They do however also have the adjustable float level and acceleration pump on the outside which makes them even cooler." I have not found any other information on them on the internet.

I installed the MSA kit on my 260 and the fit on the back was terrible from MSA. I had to grind some areas and had 3/8" gaps on others. I found that by grinding the corners and setting the bumper right under the tail light recess I had the tightest fit. I use fiberglass on the underside to fill the large gaps and fiber filled on the smaller gaps. This I bondoed in. Since then I was doing some other body work and from input on this web site was informed about the new flexible body fillers. I would use this instead of bondo. My side skirts were so twisted I had to install counter sunk screws in them to get the twist out to close the gaps. But after hrs of work they look ok now. On this project it might be easier to do the molding in yourself and have the paint shop do the final prep. All you really need is and electric DA sander and flat sander to do most of the work for tools. These are not bolt on parts.

Have the same problem, I know mine is the switch. Rotate the switch and nothing happens, turn on the switch and put pressure on the back side and mine come on every time. I need to take it apart and clean it before I get the car back on the road.

A place to start is 49.4 CFM per 1000 RPM.

Blow everyones mind and pit a Desoto Hemi in it Chrysler is not the only one to use the design!

I was looking at a friends 67 Z28 Stock Eliminator Drag car and was discussing the cowl induction set up that was available on that year. After some research we came up with about a possible 10% performace increase with the cowl induction. I keep seeing pictures of turbo set ups with the air cleaner under the hood. It can be assumed that the temperature under the hood is around 150 F. You are starting with about a 10% loss in air density between outside air and the air under the hood. The air going to and from the intercooler will be at a higher temperature. If the air intake is taken in front the radiator there should be a measurable performance increase. Plus with this set up you can design in some positive pressure on the intake at speed.

A most of painting is in the prep. If you go to Maaco or such prep the car yourself before taking it in. Remove all of the trim that you can, fill in the chips and wet sand the entire car. Go to several Maaco or such stores and check out who is doing the best job for the money. Hell back in the 60s when I was in HS I bought and sold cars all of the time to make money. Painted over half of them at Earl Shiebs, for $19.95 each saved $10 since I would sand and mask them myself and all they would do is paint. The painter they had there was one of the best around. The paint jobs always looked good.

With your 16 psi of boost what size of main jet, emussion tubes and air correction jet are you running?

I got this picture from GT-240 of his turbo setup with SK carbs. From his information he is running 18 psi of boost.

"There's a sucker born every minute." I think this is what he is looking for, or by asking such a high buy now price he will get his starting price. A Little History P. T. Barnum is most often associated with the circus sideshow and the display of freaks. While this is true, he is also the founding force behind one of America's most famous circuses: Barnum & Bailey Circus. Barnum is also affiliated with the famous quote "There's a sucker born every minute." History, unfortunately, has misdirected this quotation. Barnum never did say it. Actually, it was said by his competitor.

I’m researching and designing a set up using triple 45 mm SKs blow throughs. Instead of using a turbo I am have an Eaton M62 supercharger. How much boost are you running? Any information on this set up would be appreciated, including Picts. I have found some information on weber blow throughs but it is really came up limited. 8)

Here is how I reinforced my convertible with 2"x1" tube stock. For a V8 I would add "X" bracing between the rails. I did extend the rails further back and rolled up the ends. On a convert there is some torsional flexing.

Start by checking if you have spark pull the coil wire have someone turn the motor over. If you have spark, next check to see if you have fuel to the carbs. You could try spraying some starting fluid into the carbs and see if it tries to start. Be careful with starting fluid it is very flammable. If it does you have a fuel problem. You have to work one system at a time. It saves money having to not buy a bunch of stuff that you do not need.

This goes back to my original idea. The supercharger that I have is off of a SK230 Mercedes, with an electric clutch like on an air conditioner compressor. I could set it up kick in at say 1500 rpm and up. On the air intake plenum have a check valve that will open under vacuum allowing air to bypass the supercharger. On my original wet supercharger plan I was looking at a bypass with check valve around the supercharger, this way I could run with or without the supercharger running. This would be real neat on a FI engine. So many decisions so little money. Thanks for the input. 8)

Tony D Do you think I will have trouble with 7 to 9 psi of boost on the triple 45mm SK carbs. I am planning on using a 4" Square tube for the induction manifold. The boost off of the supercharger is almost constant so should not have a problem with surging. What carb modifications do you recommend? I have never messed with triples before. Thanks Sho-z 260 Convertible Soon to be a Hybrid 8)

As a former pipefitter/welder I do not know if I should take offence, just kidding. I always found that there are a lot phrases to get your point across. How about this Do you think this will work better? If we do it this way it might work better Did you ever think of this? It is always better to ask than to order. If your boss asks you to do something you will most likely get right on it, if it is an order most of us will do the task, but not as efficiently as we could.

Does anyone know about this Z. I found the picture on “Zacksz†web site. His email account seems to be disconnected. All that I can find out is that it is a turbo with triple Webers. I am in the middle of putting together a triple SK Racing carb/supercharger project and would like to contact the owner/builder. 8)

One thing to think about installing a roll bar in your Z is padding. I had a friend killed in a roll over, hit his head on the roll bar and he was strapped in with a 4 point harness. I would sit in the seats and look at any area that I could hit my head on the roll bar and pad it.

I missed this the first time it was on. Has to be a whole lot more entertaining than the rest of the crap that is on TV these days. Full Throttle 1971 Datsun 240Z. Airs on Wednesday, December 15 at 8:00pm ET In this episode, Japanese hustle meets American muscle! The Datsun 240Z was the first affordable people's sports car. We get an up-close look at the 1971 Datsun design engineering that proved light years ahead of its American competitors. Diving into their overhead cam engine, we tear it down and build it back up for a head-to-head drag race at full throttle! After supplying two teams with the classic cars, garages, tools, parts, and 20 hours of repair time, we hold an old-fashioned drag race on a legal, certified track with safety devices for the drivers. As we follow the teams, we interject history at each step they take, including factory footage and interviews with the legends behind the vintage vehicles. TVPG 8)

Are you sure it is the carbs, not the fuel filters, water in the gas or fuel pump? If I remember right there is a filter in the bottom of the electric fuel pump next to the gas tank in addition to the one in the engine compartment. Also you could have a fuel pump problem. I know the flat tops are trash carbs but they should not just take a dump like that.