SHO-Z

For what its worth there is a 280z convertible on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6187&item=2491884178&rd=1

I am now starting my wet supercharged 260Z project. I bought an Eaton M62 Supercharger for a Mercedes SLK230 off of Ebay. It has an electric clutch like on an air conditioner compressor. This way I can run it when I want POWER or let it free wheel. A bypass with check valve is being considered. The carburetion will be an Edelbrock 600 CFM 4 barrel. The plan is for about 7 to 8 psi of boost which should give around a 40 to 45% HP gain on the stock 280 motor. With unkown milage on the motor I hope it doesn't blow up! Here is a picture of a TR6 with a similar set up. From his email he has not had any problem using the supercharger wet, evan with the end needle bearings being grease packed. This has been done before on a Datsun. http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/featurecars/GlennL/supercharged.html Still to be decided is the intake design, use a box section like the TR6, use a 280 FI manifold or fabricate a pipe manifold using the existing carb manifold. I have some concerns about excess manifold volume. Intercooling might be tried later if this works out.

Convertibles are not that hard to do. I did mine in a few of months after work and on weekends. Mine is all metal construction, shortend and layed dowm hatch for a trunk. A V8 would require more torsional support than I added on my subframe, I can feel some twisting of the body on some road conditions. Of course nothing is complete and am in the process of redoing some of it now.

Neither one is worth much in my view. Bush says support our troops and cuts veterans benefits for our older Vietnam, Korean and WWII vets. A Flip Flop? Kerry cannot figure out what room he is in. Kerry is the used car salesman and Bush is the spoiled brat, "My way is the only way or else." The debate is as said above just a show. They know the questions well in advance and have been practicing for a month on what to say. I am one of the millions on people who are middle of the road, conservative on some points and liberal on others. Who is the lesser of the evils is the question?

Both calculations are real close for a 2.21 ratio. I have a 3.5" Diameter pulley on the Mercedes SLK supercharger and with the electic cluth would be difficult to change. It is good to know that the pulley size that I am looking at will work.

If anyone has any information on how to mount a serpentine crank pulley for a supercharger I would appreciate any information. Also what design did you use. I have a Eaton M62 supercharger for my Z and it looks like I need a 8" pulley.

Here is a simple boost calulation for Superchargers, This does not allow for other losses. ((Super Charger Disp/(1/2 Engine Displacement)) * Ratio * 14.7) - 14.7 = Boost Pressure 3.5" Pulley on Eaton M62 Supercharger 1 Liter Capacity 2.8L engine 3.5" Pulley on Eaton M62 Supercharger 1 Liter Capacity Drive-------PS--------- Ratio Pulley----- Boost------ 3.5" 5----------- 0.3--------- 1.428571429 5.25--------1.05------- 1.5 5.5----------1.8-------- 1.571428571 5.75---------2.55------ 1.642857143 6------------3.3--------1.714285714 6.25------- 4.05------- 1.785714286 6.5----------4.8-------- 1.857142857 6.75---------5.55------ 1.928571429 7-------------6.3------- 2 7.25---------7.05------ 2.071428571 7.5-----------7.8------- 2.142857143 7.75----------8.55----- 2.214285714 8--------------9.3------ 2.285714286 8.25------- 10.05------ 2.357142857 8.5--------- 10.8------- 2.428571429 8.75--------11.55----- 2.5 9------------12.3------- 2.571428571

How did you do the crank pulley and where did you get it? I just got a Eaton M62 for my z.

I just bought an Eaton M62 supercharger to install on my 260Z. I am planning on a wet system. The type carburetion is still the be detemined after get I the layout figured out. The planned boost will be around 8 psi. With normal distributor advance working on vacuum I could tie on upstream on the blower. From what I have found on the internet I need to retard the spark around 5° for this amount of boost. One other kink in my design is that the supercharger has an electric clutch like an air conditioner compressor so I will not have to run it all of the time, so I need two different timing settings. Will the regular distributor curve work with this boost? Or am I going in the wrong direction?

If you have a gas furnace or water heater in you garage shut then off completely including the pilot lights. Youi do not want to have and ignition source while painting.

It has been done before! http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/featurecars/GlennL/supercharged.html

Get yourself a real big electric air pump an tie it into your exhaust system. When they want to check the car turn it on and smile. "Dilution is the Solution to Pollution"

The 350z looks like a cross between an Audi TT bottom and a 911 Porsche roof line. There are few unique designs out there and with so many makes around it is a wonder why!

I think it would be cleaner with Dunz fasteners. I had these on my TR3 back in the 60s. They are low profile do not have the scratching problem that hood pins have. They are one of the standards of the aircraft industry.

If you learn to walk to cup you can slick it up even more. Look great for free hand.

I would like to find out if anyone is using a Eaton M62 Supercharger on a 280. If so what pulley ratio are you running at what boost?

When the fuel goes to the engine it is under pressure of arould 50 psi or so. It takes a pressure drop in the return valve. This drop can cause some of the fuel to vaporize. As the fuel returns to the tank it will cool and condense. This is one reason you have a pressurized fuel system on the car.

Most of the eaton supercharger used by GM and Ford use a bypass around the supercharger when the power is not needed. Mercedes use a electic clutch, like and an air conditioner compressor in a car. In that it is not turning at the time reduces wear and less hp drag. The air passes throuh the rotors on the supercharger.

As I said that I am still in the design portion of the project. I have to weigh the options of using a ZX turbo FI set up against carb. After sleeping on it the SU is out. Might have to use some type of 4 brl or stacked dual side drafts. It might be fun to set it up first with the carb see how it works and then try the FI. There is still a lot of research and planning to do. I still have to figure out how this set up will affect the vacuum system, ignition, intake manifold, general layout and all. But this is part of the fun! Any and all information and comments are appreciated

I found this picture of a eaton supercharger in a TR6 with SU carb it does look nice. I might have to go with this design. [/img]

Well I just bought a Mercedes Benz SLK230 Eaton M62 Supercharger for my 260Z off of ebay for $200, oh well got to spend the money on something. The project plan is to use forced induction on round top SU carbs. The neat thing with this set up is the “Kompressor†has a electric clutch like an air conditioner and can be turned off when I want to run around on regular fuel. Still have a lot of designing and research to do to make things work. Would like around 10 PSI of boost when finished.

To convert air lbm/sec to CF/M Air at Sea level and 70° is .0749 lbm/ft3 60 sec/ Min Divide my .0749 and multiply by 60 This does not bring in temp and pressure.

I know that I am and old and all. I can follow the Chevy and ford motor, TPI, LT1, LS1, EFI. But all of the acronym on the Japanese motors I cannot follow. I have no idea of what motor they are talking about in this post. I just wish that when some one list’s a post they would say out of a year make and model, so some of us “old farts†could figure out what is going on.

There is no difference in the heat loss between Aluminum and SS from the surface to the air. The SS will hold more heat in the metal due the weigh difference and the thermal conductivity of the SS is about 30 compared to 117 for aluminum. Aluminum would be preferred from a heat transfer point on view. I really do not thing that you would see any significant difference in the air temp into the engine between the two.

You could lead in the seams after stitch welding and grinding. It will add weight but it will not crack if done right. That is how the old guys used to do it way back then. It is a long lost art form.