SHO-Z

I have a 260Z with 280 engine. The ignition set up is stock 260z. I am planning on supercharging @ around 10 to 12 psi of boost and with forced induction on triple SK racing carbs. I have been looking at an MSD unit for spark retard under boost. Is the vacume advance on the distrubutor still hooked up like normal or should I disconnect it? Any input on how to modify my current set up would be appreciated.

I have used both a bench vise and a large C-Clamp and couple of sockets to change out U joints. I had an old Dodge Van back in the early 70s that had a habit of blowing u-joints. With a C-Clamp and a couple of sockets I could change one out in about 30 minutes on the side of the road. There is nothing complicated about replacing them.

Check out your flasher unit if it is gone all of the lights will work but will not flash. It is plugged in under tha dash on most cars, I have not had to mess with the one on my z.

Is the pulley and harmonic balancer a 2 piece unit? I bought a single grove pulley a while back from another Z guy for my supercharger project. I have not taken the dual pulley off of my car to change it our yet. From the looks of what I have there are 2 small holes for screws and the center hole for the crank bolt. There is a round grouve on the back side.

I have to agree with the last post. The only real way to compare all of the carb options is to test each on the same engine, properly set up, and see how they perform. I have reservations on the 4 BRL carb set up never seen a 4 BRL on an inline race engine, but that is my personal opinion. If I could design my own set up I would probably use triple SUs like the old E type Jag had. I have a set of triple SK racing, weber clones, on my bench and will see how they perform some time this summer. The DGV Webers on my car now are ok but I would have been better to pick up a set of round top SUs. I think a lot of it is how you use your car and what you expect out of it.

Try this for a calculator http://www.superchargeronline.com/hp_calculator.asp

Look at the set up that Factory Five sells for there kit cars and racing Cobras. http://parts.factoryfive.com/roadster/chassis/chassis.html

I have had similar problems on my webers. I have fixed it by setting the idle screw ½ turn in and adjusting the idle speed with the idle enrichment screw. The webers have a transition jet that is covered by the throttle butterfly at idle. If you have the idle set so this jet is not covered it does not work properly and the engine will stumble off of idle.

I am in the process of putting together my carbed supercharged project in a 260z with a 280 engine. I have an eaton M62 supercharger off of a Mercedes SLK 230. I have looked at both draw through and blow through set ups. The rotors on the M62 are teflon coated and gas will eat it up. But I found several articles about TR6s with this set up with no problem running a single SU off of a Jag. A 4 barrel would also work. A 280 FI intake with the injectors plugged would work fine. I was able to score a set of triple SK racing carbs, weber clones, so will go forced induction. I have found several people who have turbo forced inductions set ups like this.

Hi Y-NOT I am planning on going to the kit car show on Sat. I will definetly come by and check out your GTO. See you there.

Try going to PPI2PASS.com they have a job board under forums. You could list there an see what happens.

I wonder how many people are thinking gas fumes are exhaust fumes. There is a condenser tank in the wheel well next to the filler tube. The hoses that connect it are now over 20 years old, and need to be inspected and replaced. Buy the design the back of a Z is flat. This is a low pressure area. This can be shown buy driving the car down a dirt road and only the back section will be covered with dust. Or the draft used by race drivers. A spoiler will in all likely hood increase this area of low pressure. If the back is not sealed or the exhaust pipe exiting into the air flow around the car, exhaust fumed can accumulate in the car. Opening a window can also create a low pressure zone in the car. Fluids flow from higher pressure to lower pressure. I have no problem with fumes windows up or down, of course I have no top either. Sho-z 260z Convertible

I pulled my Z from Bellingham Wash to Phoenix AZ on car dolly with a 4-Runner, V6, Auto, packed to the gills. It was a hell of a trip. Going trough Seattle it started overheating for some unknown reason was loosing coolant and I could not find out where. South of Tacoma I found that the top of the radiator had cracked out. Well a trip to SEARS and bought a propane torch and soldered it up. On all of the long grades it would overheat and had to stop and let it cool off. So I carried extra water on the entire trip. It also did not let me use the AC going across the desert in July. Temps in the 100°++++++ I was not a happy camper. I know the overheating was due too much load on the engine. On the flats without the air the old 4-Runner did just fine evan at 70 mph. I had no problem with braking the load or anything. Take your time and watch all grades and you should do fine.

Here is an option. Get a squeeze bottle and some baby powder or light powder. Have someone crawl in the back of the Z while you are driving with the window cracked and start squirting some of the baby powder around the back areas. You should be able to see where the air is coming in and how it is moving around the car. Smoke will do the same test. If it does not work, your car will at least smell like a baby’s butt for a few days!

Instead of using a Turbo use a Supercharger. This will increase your torque at lower RPMs. There was a post about a month ago about the car that is in the Z car magazine. Supercharges do take HP away on the upper end but add HP and torque on the lower end. There are plus and minuses to every system. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99330

I have heard that putting dry ice on hail damage dents will pull some of them out or reduce the size of the dent. It might be worth a try to reduce the body shop cost.

Aluminum has a tendency to work harden over time causing cracking. They use to make motorcycle gas tanks out of aluminum but had problems with cracking at the welds. Just watch how you mount the tank and support the bottom to stop any tin canning of the bottom.

You can also solder aluminum. If you think the area where you want to install the BOV is too thin, solder piece of aluminum plate there and drill and tap both of them. Aluminum can also be gas welded but I would not try this, it is how the original Cobra bodys were assembled.

On back flow into the engine from that article that I pasted in above The reason for this difference in size has to do with reversion, which is back flow of the burned exhaust gases back into the engine. The bigger that the pipes get, the better the chance that flow can reverse and contaminate the incoming fresh air/fuel charge. On a Mustang, the large displacement keeps the total volume of gas going though the exhaust high (at low rpm), and a moderate amount of reversion is even desirable to help reduce peak cylinder temperatures and keep NOx down (the 5.0 having a basic layout and chamber design that is not ideal from an emissions standpoint). With the smaller displacement, bone stock SHO engine, dual 2.25 inch pipes would likely allow too much reversion at low RPMs, hurting low rpm torque. This latter effect can only be mitigated somewhat through additional fuel/spark a la an LPM, but it can not be eliminated completely, irregardless of what you may hear elsewhere.

Here is an article on exhaust design that I read when I was looking at installing a SHO engine in my Z. There are a lot of good points that are brought up about sizing and possible problems by going to large. The SHO is 3.0L so is a good comparison to the Z engine. http://www.shotimes.com/SHO4exhaustjohnh.html

I didn't know until today how simple it is to hook up a gauge like this or there even was one. This will make tuning my project allot easier. http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/su/airfuel.html

I am planning on using SK Racing, Weber Clones, with forced induction, around 12 PSI of boost from Eaton M62 Supercharge with intercooler. I have checked to see what I have now. tripple 45 MM Carbs 34 MM Venturi Jets Mains 135 Tube F11 Air 165 Idle 50 If I calculate using the area of the jets from increased air flow of 1.8 times more air @ 12 PSI of Boost Mains 180 Tube F11 Air 155 Idle 65 I really feel that these are larger than I need. Any of you Weber experts please give me your input.

It sound exactly like the same type of deal a guy in Phoenix was ripped off with. It was on the news in Phoenix about a week ago. If it sounds to good to be true watch your wallet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This is and interesting read for all of you who are thinking about doing a brake upgrade. I do not know if I agree on all of his points, but it is interesting. http://www.superchargeronline.com/content.asp?ID=98