jhm

http://www.activeforever.com/p-1641-cool-or-heat-seat-cushion.aspx

...or Arizona Z Car...

$300 for a muffler seems pretty steep. Seems like you could get a nice stainless unit for alot less. But what the hey...if you like the look of CF and you think this is a good price for what you're getting, go for it. Like everything, it's a personal preference thing.

I've always had good luck with MSA, Z Car Source, and Z Specialties. http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.zcarsource.com/ http://www.zspecialties.com/ Additionally, look at the HybridZ classifieds....there's always a bunch of guys parting out their vehicles who would be glad to get your business. Finally, don't ignore places like Pep Boys and Autozone. They usually have a decent selection of generic fasteners, clips, etc.

You bet....happy to help. One last thing to check if you're having electrical problems: check your harness connections in the junction block next to the relay board. I had a heck of a time tracking down a problem with my emergency flashers....turned out to be a poor connection between the plugs at the junction block. I cleaned up the contacts, plugged it back in, and no more problem! Good luck and happy motoring.

Juan- Another option for your consideration....my rear battery is mounted in front of the passenger-side rear wheel well. With my rollbar, this turned out to be the most secure mounting location. You can't be too careful when mounting your battery -- in the event of a hard panic-stop or (heaven forbid) a head-on collision, your battery will become a 40 lb projectile if not securely mounted. NEVER NEVER NEVER rely on the canvas strap that comes with the battery box; it will do NOTHING to hold your battery in place. (Saw a guy do that once with his trunk-mounted battery, and the strap just popped like a cheap balloon the first time he had to brake hard.) I used the original battery platform in the engine compartment as a platform for my hot post -- used a battery firewall terminal here. Places like Summit and JEGS offer several kits at decent prices. One word of advice I'd offer is to use a good quality sealed battery like the Optima. Costs a little more up front, but a good investment over the long term. Good luck with your project and happy motoring. jhm

I'll take a stab at an answer....I'm sure someone will chime in if I misstate anything. To my knowledge, there is no independent headlamp relay. The system is wired directly from switch to headlamp, via the fuseblock and fusible link box. The ground is established through the combination switch on your steering column. As far as your left headlamp problem goes; if you've already ruled out the obvious suspects (poor connection at the headlamp 3-way plug, the sealed-beam unit itself, etc), then your problem likely originates in the combination switch. Check that all connections are clean and corrosion-free. Ensure all solder points are securely soldered. One other thing that might be causing you fits is broken or damaged wire somewhere in the harness -- easy way to check this is with continuity tester (e.g. testlamp or voltmeter/ammeter). Good luck -- electrical gremlins can be a pain to track down, but relatively easy to fix once you've isolated the problem!

I believe this is the correct relay diagram for a 260.

Yetterben- As I was fabbing up my plates, I was thinking "I really to to make some templates for anyone else that's interested". And of course, never got around to it.... If I get motivated in the near future, I'll pull out the pieces and make the templates and post an update. While every car will vary from model to model, the templates may at least give folks a starting point. jhm

Too early to tell. Just installed it recently and haven't had much chance to drive it. I know of other installations where this intake has worked well. Happy to report back later after I know more.

bleakdragon- I built my CAI mostly from Spectre Performance parts. I used their low-profile air intake plenum (PN 98499), their 4" ducting (PN 9751), and one of their large cone filters (PN 9738). They offer a big variety of modular cold air intake parts so you can build your system to meet your specific needs. Check out their website....it's pretty comprehensive, with dimensions and suggested retail for each of their products. Since I'm such a tight-wad, I used a 4" 90 deg elbow from the plumbing section at Lowes ($4!) to connect my filter and ducting through the radiator core support. Amazing what you can find for your Z at the hardware store. Good luck and be sure to keep us updated on your progress! jhm

7MGFORCE- Not sure what kind of vehicle you've got, or what your engine type/mounting configuration is, but this thread might help: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=144958 Good luck and happy motoring! jhm

Wow, this thread has been going strong for a while now! Here's mine. 260Z built in Sep 1974. Don't have any 'before' pix, but here's a couple as she sits now. In the year I've had her, I've done some minor body work, a complete interior redo, and redone most of the engine compartment. The list of things to do just seems to go on and on... Thx for looking. jhm

Max- Ever get your problem solved? If not, check if there's moisture inside your distributor. Very possible after a heavy rainfall, and can easily cause the motor to stumble and run poorly. Fortunately, very easy to solve -- best technique I've found is to pop the distributor cap and thoroughly blow out the internals with compressed air. Good luck and happy motoring! jhm

I took Pete Paraska's words to heart, and came up with this setup. Bottom and side pieces fabbed from aluminum sheeting and top piece from thin-gauge galvanized steel sheet. Theoretically, it should be directing nearly all airflow through the radiator, and blocking all other air passage into the engine compartment. May even give a tiny "pressurization" effect to the cold air intake, if it results in a higher static pressure in the vicinity of the filter.

Here's my setup (recently completed). Bottom and side pieces fabbed from aluminum sheeting, and top piece from thin-gauge galvanized steel sheet. Directs nearly all airflow through the radiator and blocks all other air passage into the engine compartment. May even give a tiny "pressurization" effect to the cold air intake, if it results in a higher static pressure in the vicinity of the air filter.

The switch is located underneath the dash, either directly behind or directly in front of, the pivot point on which the brake pedal is mounted. As Rolling Parts indicated, it's a simple spring-loaded on-off switch. It can be adjusted by moving it closer or further from the brake pedal.

My understanding is that this is intentional. Mounting the engine just slightly to the passenger side is an attempt to "equalize" the weight distribution between driver and passenger sides. (The theory being that the car will be driven without a passenger the majority of the time.) If I recall correctly, Datsun did similar thing when engineering the mounting location of the factory motor as well. And yes, this mounting position gives more clearance with the steering shaft....a win-win situation!

Yes, a poor ground will def affect your overall voltage potential and starter performance. You can check the quality of your connections with a voltmeter/ammmeter. Check to make sure all your connections are clean and tight -- amazing what an impact dirty or corroded terminals can have. You might want to conduct a simple test by removing the disconnect switch -- maybe it's causing part of your problem. A battery grounding strap like these can also help ensure a good ground: http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=battery%20grounding%20strap&dds=1 What are you using for the hot lead? Usually, 2-gauge wire should suffice, especially for a short run (between hatch and engine compartment) like we've got with the Z. Good luck and let us know how it goes!

Jasper- Agree completely with your recommendations. But still have one nagging question....how's your car going to run if you disconnect the battery ground?? jhm

No, the battery is an integral part of your electrical system. Remove it and the system fails.

Like jt1 suggested, quickest route to solving problem is to narrow down location of noise source. If you don't have access to a stethoscope, any long steel bar will work as an alternative (e.g. long screwdrive, extension drive for ratchet wrench, etc) -- place one end of the bar on the engine and your ear on the other end. It's amazing how well it works! Move the bar around until you've located the source of your noise. Just as a crazy thought, have you recently hit anything that might have dented your oil pan? If it's dinged sufficiently hard, it will impinge inward and interfere with the normal rotation of the crank/rods, causing a very disturbing (but easily fixed) knocking noise. Good luck and let us know how it goes!

For anyone that's interested, here's an update.... Rather than attempting to bend/reshape the header, I decided to shorten the collector and move the collector flange a little higher up (away from the steering shaft). With that done, it was a simple matter to route the downtube between the block and the steering shaft. Final result works and fits pretty well -- two 2.5" tubes into a single 3" tube. Thx to all that provided info and advice. jhm

Is the choke opening fully upon warm-up? If not, that could be the cause of your problem. If you've got an electric choke, a loose connection in your hot lead or ground could prevent proper operation of the choke (and thereby cause stumbling on acceleration once the engine is warmed up). Good luck with the trouble-shooting, and be sure to let us know what the problem and solution were once solved!

I have always been a sucker for a g-nose and fat flares -- love the look of your car! Good luck with the resto and keep the updates coming. jhm