jhm

LHD- +1 on what jt1 said about the 4 speed at highway speeds! If it's the car I'm thinking of (purple car up in Penn or MD -- can't remember where exactly), I think you're probably getting a very good deal. I seriously considered buying that car about a year ago, and talked with the owner quite extensively. He seemed very knowledgeable and honest about the car's history and condition. Besides all the engine work done to the car, it has some other nice/unusual features....pantera hatch, g-nose, Recaros, roll bar, and some kind of fiberglass/cowl induction hood if I recall correctly. I seem to recall the car originally came from CA or CO, so there's a good chance that it's relatively rust free -- give a good inspection to the floor pans, frame rails, and fender inner tubs to confirm. The main reason I didn't buy the car is that it already had alot of work done. I was in the market for more of a project car, to allow me to restore/upgrade as I went along. Again, if we're talking about the same car, I think you're getting a heck of a deal. Good luck and be sure to keep us posted, and welcome to HybridZ! jhm

I'm assuming you checked the obvious (e.g. bulbs, fuses, etc)? If not, do this first. You say your tail lights work, but the brake lights don't? Many times the problem is a bad ground in the vicinity of the affected area. There's a ground wire for the rear lights inside the hatch, right behind the spare tire well. Even though your tail lights are working, I'd check this ground wire to ensure it's got a good connection. Also, check your harness connections (to the tail light assemblies) and bulb sockets while you're back there. Unplugging your brake light switch will NOT ensure that brake lights stay on all the time.....rather, that ensures that they will stay off all the time. Plug it back in and check the operation and adjustment of the switch. The switch can be adjusted closer or further from the brake pedal. It should provide a solid connection across the two leads when the brake pedal is depressed. Sometimes a simple cleaning, lubing, and adjusting of the brake light switch is all it takes to get the lights working again. Good luck and be sure to post your results!

If I recall correctly, the 280Z voltage regulator is mounted on the engine bay relay bracket, just forward of the battery. It should have a 6-prong plug connecting it to the wiring harness. You can take your alternator into many auto parts stores (e.g. Autozone, Pep Boys, etc) for FREE bench testing. I'd try this first if you think you're having alternator problems.

Check your flasher relay. There are two mounted next to each other on the side panel underneath the dash (on the driver's side, just to the left of your left knee). One flasher is for your turn signal; the other's for your hazard lights. Very cheap to replace -- I just got a new flasher for my turn signal at Pep Boys for $2.99. Also check your bulbs. As Zedman mentioned, a burned-out bulb may sometimes cause system problems. Finally, check your connections under the dash. The two connection points that come to mind are: 1) the turn signal connection on your steering column (3-prong plug) and 2) the harness connections under the dash on the passenger-side. Ensure all connection plugs are firmly plugged in. Good luck and happy motoring.

http://www.activeforever.com/p-1641-cool-or-heat-seat-cushion.aspx

...or Arizona Z Car...

$300 for a muffler seems pretty steep. Seems like you could get a nice stainless unit for alot less. But what the hey...if you like the look of CF and you think this is a good price for what you're getting, go for it. Like everything, it's a personal preference thing.

I've always had good luck with MSA, Z Car Source, and Z Specialties. http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.zcarsource.com/ http://www.zspecialties.com/ Additionally, look at the HybridZ classifieds....there's always a bunch of guys parting out their vehicles who would be glad to get your business. Finally, don't ignore places like Pep Boys and Autozone. They usually have a decent selection of generic fasteners, clips, etc.

You bet....happy to help. One last thing to check if you're having electrical problems: check your harness connections in the junction block next to the relay board. I had a heck of a time tracking down a problem with my emergency flashers....turned out to be a poor connection between the plugs at the junction block. I cleaned up the contacts, plugged it back in, and no more problem! Good luck and happy motoring.

Juan- Another option for your consideration....my rear battery is mounted in front of the passenger-side rear wheel well. With my rollbar, this turned out to be the most secure mounting location. You can't be too careful when mounting your battery -- in the event of a hard panic-stop or (heaven forbid) a head-on collision, your battery will become a 40 lb projectile if not securely mounted. NEVER NEVER NEVER rely on the canvas strap that comes with the battery box; it will do NOTHING to hold your battery in place. (Saw a guy do that once with his trunk-mounted battery, and the strap just popped like a cheap balloon the first time he had to brake hard.) I used the original battery platform in the engine compartment as a platform for my hot post -- used a battery firewall terminal here. Places like Summit and JEGS offer several kits at decent prices. One word of advice I'd offer is to use a good quality sealed battery like the Optima. Costs a little more up front, but a good investment over the long term. Good luck with your project and happy motoring. jhm

I'll take a stab at an answer....I'm sure someone will chime in if I misstate anything. To my knowledge, there is no independent headlamp relay. The system is wired directly from switch to headlamp, via the fuseblock and fusible link box. The ground is established through the combination switch on your steering column. As far as your left headlamp problem goes; if you've already ruled out the obvious suspects (poor connection at the headlamp 3-way plug, the sealed-beam unit itself, etc), then your problem likely originates in the combination switch. Check that all connections are clean and corrosion-free. Ensure all solder points are securely soldered. One other thing that might be causing you fits is broken or damaged wire somewhere in the harness -- easy way to check this is with continuity tester (e.g. testlamp or voltmeter/ammeter). Good luck -- electrical gremlins can be a pain to track down, but relatively easy to fix once you've isolated the problem!

I believe this is the correct relay diagram for a 260.

Yetterben- As I was fabbing up my plates, I was thinking "I really to to make some templates for anyone else that's interested". And of course, never got around to it.... If I get motivated in the near future, I'll pull out the pieces and make the templates and post an update. While every car will vary from model to model, the templates may at least give folks a starting point. jhm

Too early to tell. Just installed it recently and haven't had much chance to drive it. I know of other installations where this intake has worked well. Happy to report back later after I know more.

bleakdragon- I built my CAI mostly from Spectre Performance parts. I used their low-profile air intake plenum (PN 98499), their 4" ducting (PN 9751), and one of their large cone filters (PN 9738). They offer a big variety of modular cold air intake parts so you can build your system to meet your specific needs. Check out their website....it's pretty comprehensive, with dimensions and suggested retail for each of their products. Since I'm such a tight-wad, I used a 4" 90 deg elbow from the plumbing section at Lowes ($4!) to connect my filter and ducting through the radiator core support. Amazing what you can find for your Z at the hardware store. Good luck and be sure to keep us updated on your progress! jhm

7MGFORCE- Not sure what kind of vehicle you've got, or what your engine type/mounting configuration is, but this thread might help: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=144958 Good luck and happy motoring! jhm

Wow, this thread has been going strong for a while now! Here's mine. 260Z built in Sep 1974. Don't have any 'before' pix, but here's a couple as she sits now. In the year I've had her, I've done some minor body work, a complete interior redo, and redone most of the engine compartment. The list of things to do just seems to go on and on... Thx for looking. jhm

Max- Ever get your problem solved? If not, check if there's moisture inside your distributor. Very possible after a heavy rainfall, and can easily cause the motor to stumble and run poorly. Fortunately, very easy to solve -- best technique I've found is to pop the distributor cap and thoroughly blow out the internals with compressed air. Good luck and happy motoring! jhm

I took Pete Paraska's words to heart, and came up with this setup. Bottom and side pieces fabbed from aluminum sheeting and top piece from thin-gauge galvanized steel sheet. Theoretically, it should be directing nearly all airflow through the radiator, and blocking all other air passage into the engine compartment. May even give a tiny "pressurization" effect to the cold air intake, if it results in a higher static pressure in the vicinity of the filter.

Here's my setup (recently completed). Bottom and side pieces fabbed from aluminum sheeting, and top piece from thin-gauge galvanized steel sheet. Directs nearly all airflow through the radiator and blocks all other air passage into the engine compartment. May even give a tiny "pressurization" effect to the cold air intake, if it results in a higher static pressure in the vicinity of the air filter.

The switch is located underneath the dash, either directly behind or directly in front of, the pivot point on which the brake pedal is mounted. As Rolling Parts indicated, it's a simple spring-loaded on-off switch. It can be adjusted by moving it closer or further from the brake pedal.

My understanding is that this is intentional. Mounting the engine just slightly to the passenger side is an attempt to "equalize" the weight distribution between driver and passenger sides. (The theory being that the car will be driven without a passenger the majority of the time.) If I recall correctly, Datsun did similar thing when engineering the mounting location of the factory motor as well. And yes, this mounting position gives more clearance with the steering shaft....a win-win situation!

Yes, a poor ground will def affect your overall voltage potential and starter performance. You can check the quality of your connections with a voltmeter/ammmeter. Check to make sure all your connections are clean and tight -- amazing what an impact dirty or corroded terminals can have. You might want to conduct a simple test by removing the disconnect switch -- maybe it's causing part of your problem. A battery grounding strap like these can also help ensure a good ground: http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=battery%20grounding%20strap&dds=1 What are you using for the hot lead? Usually, 2-gauge wire should suffice, especially for a short run (between hatch and engine compartment) like we've got with the Z. Good luck and let us know how it goes!

Jasper- Agree completely with your recommendations. But still have one nagging question....how's your car going to run if you disconnect the battery ground?? jhm

No, the battery is an integral part of your electrical system. Remove it and the system fails.