jhm

This may help... http://www.chevy-camaro.com/chevy-camaro-engine-codes.asp

Well, I took Grumpy's advice to heart and (finally) replaced my stock dented, leaky oil pan with a shiny new zinc-plated pan from Midwest Motorsports. I bought the 5-quart "stock-appearing pan": http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=1050&line=MWM I also needed a new oil pickup because the stock Chevy pickup interferes with the new pan's baffling. I bought one of Midwest's claimer pickups: http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=15136&line=MWM I also wanted to try one of the snazzy one-piece silicone gaskets that everyone's been raving about, so I ordered this one from Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-OS34510T/ Everything went in relatively easily (knock on wood)....only had to remove the steering rack and lift the engine a couple inches to get enough clearance to remove the old pan and install the new. One word of caution....if you're using the "thick" (vs "thin") gasket and torque leveler plates on the pan, the stock pan bolts won't be long enough. 1" bolts were too long, but 3/4" bolts worked perfectly. Also, see Grumpy's instructions on checking clearance between your oil pickup and the bottom of the pan. The results are well worth the effort and the (minimal) expense. Larger capacity, a spiffy-looking zinc pan, and nary a drop of leaked oil!

Hadn't seen datsunzgarage before....another excellent site....thx for the tip!

Mike- If you haven't already done so, check out Atlantic Z's website. They have a good number of articles on upgrading just about every aspect of the old S30's. http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html Good luck with your build and happy motoring. jhm

One other thought.... If you decide to keep the front bumper off, you may want to consider "flushing-in" the wells on the fender/valance. Results in a much cleaner-looking front end.

280znoob- Getting back to your original question....if you decide to remove the bumpers, do it right and remove them correctly. It will result in a better-looking final product, AND you will have retained all the hardware intact (in case you want to sell, or re-install on the car at a future date). See my thread on removing the rear bumper....it's really only a few hours work, and well worth the final result. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1068505#post1068505 Good luck with it and happy motoring. jhm

SysAds- Is there any resolution (or explanation) of the "fatal error" phenomena? I've been getting the error all morning (when trying to conduct a search). Thx in advance for any info you can provide. jhm

This may help.... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=153191

Possibly air in the system? If so, that would definitely give you "mushy" brakes. Have you recently bled all four corners? If not, give it a try and see if the situation improves.

Believe it or not, but I've usually been able to find this kind of stuff at the local Pep Boys, Autozones, and Advance Auto Parts stores. One of them will usually have the right piece-part (or something similar enough) that I'm looking for at the time.

citjet- The new light fit the plastic panel almost exactly. The metal panel underneath, however, had to be massaged a little. Nothing serious....just a little reshaping to allow for the swivel motion of the light fixture. Also, did you notice that these lights are available in both single and double configurations? One of the double lights might be the thing to meet your needs -- two independent swiveling light heads on a single mounting base. jhm

Brett- Are you familiar with Spectre Performance's website? They have a decent amount of engineering and technical data on each of their products (ducting, air plenums, filters, etc). Check out their tech forums and application guide for airflow data. The data on their 4" ducting should help answer your question (even if you use a product other than Spectre's). Hope this helps. John

Caleb- I had some minor body and paint work done on my 4Runner a couple years ago. After talking to a few shops, I decided to go with "Tim's Custom Painting and Collision Repair". The results were great....they did awesome work, and they finished the work in only a couple days. The price was maybe a little higher than market average, but certainly not unreasonable and well worth it considering the quality of their work. Tim's is at: 280 Production Drive (off of Rt 17, just south of Victory Blvd) Tabb VA 757-595-5058 Stan's was one of the shops I talked to before going to Tim's. The guys there certainly seemed knowledgeable, but I don't have any firsthand experience with them. Good luck and keep us posted. Good info for future reference! John

Just a thought....when you disassembled the parking brake, did you loosen the main adjusting linkage under the car (inside the driveshaft tunnel?) If so, it probably just needs to be retightened to its original position. It's a U-shaped yoke that connects the single linkage from your e-brake handle to the two linkages going to your drum brakes. Hope this helps.

rskdsk- If you still suspect that the problem lies in the ignition switch, check out my thread on testing the switch. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=153191 Good luck with it....hope you sort it out soon! jhm

darkzebra- If you're still looking for a good low-profile fan, check out Spal. Their stuff is quality-made, and they've got a pretty good rep. I've been running one of their 16" low-pro fans for the couple years without any problems. http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.aspx?p=CategoryBody&c=FALO

To test the switch, remove it from the combination switch mounted on your steering column. (I suppose you could actually test the switch without removing it, but that would require some really painful contorted time under the driver's side dash!) Start by removing the plastic cover on the steering column. After it's off, remove the 4 phillips head screws that secure the combo switch to the steering column. After that, you'll have the two sides of the combo switch hanging down off your naked steering column. Unplug the 6-position electrical plug from the ignition switch. Remove the two little screws holding the switch's electrical portion to the keyed portion of the switch. The electrical portion is a small silver barrel with 5 prongs on one side, and a rectangular slot on the other. You can now test your switch. Using the schematic in my Sep 15th post, test continuity of your switch in each of the 4 positions: Off, Acc, On, Start. You'll probably need an assistant to test the switch in the 'Start' position (due to the fact that the switch is spring-loaded in 'Start') -- one person can hold the switch in the 'Start' position while the other person tests the leads on the back of the switch for connectivity. If the continuity in your switch does not match the schematic, then your switch probably needs to be replaced. My switch turned out to be bad because I had no connectivity between the ignition ("IG") and the battery ("B") in the 'Start' position -- meaning that I had no juice going to the ignition while the starter was cranking the engine. Weird, huh? Like I said in my earlier post....it's an cheap and easy fix to replace the switch (electrical portion only). $16 from Z Car Source. New switches are available from other sources, but keep in mind that many of them may try to sell you a complete switch (electrical plus keyed portion) for more money. Good luck and happy motoring!

Check out the ZHOME webpage -- it's a great source of historical and tech data. http://www2.zhome.com:81/

It's called a power shunt. When it's wired correctly, it has 2 two-prong plugs going into it. One of the plugs is wired with thick 12-gauge wire, and the other is wired with much thinner (maybe 18 gauge?) wire. Given that it's probably carrying 60-90 amps, I would remove it or ensure that it's wired correctly. You can find MANY threads on this subject in the "Ignition and Electrical" sub-forum. The unit's primary purpose (if not the only purpose) is to bleed off enough current from the car's main power leads (the thick wires) to operate the ammeter in your dash. Neither the gauge nor your dash harness are designed to handle the full load of the main power leads. Later cars came with voltmeters (vs ammeters) and did not have the power shunt, if I recall correctly. Guys wishing to convert their ammeter setup to a voltmeter setup are able to remove the power shunt. r/jhm

datsfast- "Boring" nothing...that's a nice, clean, factory-looking installation!!

Hey all- Had some free time on my hands so I decided to fab up a simple heat shield for my master cylinder and master-vac (also protects the brake warning switch). Used thin-gauge galvanized sheet steel from Lowes, coated with a layer of Thermo-Tec 2000 deg heat shield. Cheap, easy, and relatively effective. r/jhm

What year and model is the car?

Yeah....good idea to call them. They often have lots of stuff that doesn't appear on their website. Good luck!

Thrustnut- Have you tried Z Specialties yet? http://www.datsunstore.com/index.php/cPath/37_267 Great folks to deal with, and I've always had good luck with them for these little stock and repro parts. Good luck and happy motoring. jhm

Hoov- Did you say "rectal scanner" or "retina scanner"???