Pyro

I would install a rear sump oil pan and oil pump pick up. Then re-clock the turbo so the output is pointing downwards and then run the intercooler pipes under the oil pan and up behind the alternator.

Majestic turbo, Dallas Texas

most likely will be cheaper to buy a Z that already has a v-conversion done and is running. paying a shop to do an engine swap will be very expensive.

600 at the wheels, 720hp at the crank and 7k rpm max rpm. look into an aftermarket block and heads. 200cc+ heads, a cam in the 230 to 235 degree range with 114 lsa, and low 8:1 cr. Twin t04e-50 trims with stage 5 t3 turbines would work ok. 360 crank hp without boost and then add 14.7 psi should (in theory) make 720hp. which takes a lot more beefed up parts (transmission, converter, rear end assembly, roller cage, and so on). I would avoid running more than 500hp through the stock rear end. That kind of power level really needs a straight axle setup (9 in ford). then you need to decide on efi or carb. drag slicks are much better than drag radials.

I'm assuming the 307 engine is stock. So he shouldn't put much cam in it. 210 to 215 degrees at 0.050" is about the max for a low cr 307 with stock heads and valve train.

a 307 is better than a 305 or a 283. A little cam, block hugger headers, better intake and carb will make a good runner. 260hp/300 ftlbs of torque would be an easy number to hit with a cam in the 210 to 215 degree range (at 0.050"). This is about the same power you can get out of your current L28 with a stock turbo with 10 psi of boost and intercooler.

it all has to do with flame travel speed and how far the flame needs to go. Modern engines are designed to have a very fast flame speed and they try to keep the piston diameter to a minimum (less distance to travel). Why? a fast flame speed and a short distance to travel means an engine needs less ignition timing advance (less head start) to complete the burn. So, instead of needing 35 degrees of timing advance (an old z engine), new modern engines can get by with 20. And less ignition advance means high compression can be used with the same octane fuel. 81 to 83 L28 engines have faster flame speed as compared to the 75 to 80 L28 engines. Flat tops and a bigger quench area makes a faster flame.

First of all, I would lower the power expectations. 220 to 235hp at the wheels (265 to 280 crank hp) will make a strong running Z. Especially in a 240. Get a running 280zxt with a rusted out/damaged body for cheap. ($500.00) swap in the stock turbo engine and install an aftermarket efi system. Run 10 to 12 psi of boost with a small bar&plate intercooler. If you need more power later (which I doubt), upgrade the turbo and install bigger injectors. Even though a stock and clean 1970 240 has some value. It still doesn't add up to much. For some reason, the collectors value didn't go up much. I think a clean Datsun 510 will go for more. Besides, a turbo conversion doesn't cut up the car at all.

with a wider LSA you can run more duration and still maintain the stock overlap. stock cam has 240/248 duration with 110 lsa which makes about 24 degrees overlap msa Turbo 1 cam has 260/250 with 114 lsa which makes about 27 degrees over lap. therefore the msa T1 cam is made for a stock or mildly modified turbine which is good for low rpm boost. with high compression, go for the T2 or T3 cam and a later boosting turbine.

FMU's with stock NA injectors is a very common way of adding more fuel during boost. Works well to about 10 psi of boost. There is a lot of FMU builds in "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. I forget, but he says 110psi is about he max pressure that should be used. No doubt a new efi system would be a better way to go. But, a fmu will work fine for low boost and a low budget situation.

I did that on 4 different Z's and it works great. Use the 78 injectors. buy a bell engineering FMU (225.00) and set the fuel pressure to 60 psi at 7.5 psi of boost (stock boost) pull the 78 distributor apart and use RTV to fill up the mechanical advance slots. Let dry over night. set the timing to 26 degrees at idle. use the vacuum advance as normal. you may find the engine runs better with the FMU spring tighten up a little bit ( 7 or 8 teeth) and the throttle position sensor in the off-idle position. play with those setting to see if the car runs better.. I have run up to 14 psi of boost with this setup and have run over 108 mph in the 1/4 mile.

The return line should be as big or bigger than the feed line.

use thicker lash pads and adjust to 0.008"lash. I had to use 0.190" thick lash pad with my MSA stage 1 turbo cam also use a ZDDP oil additive with high performance cams. try using a NA cam for another 8 degrees of duration.

10.5:1 cr with what cc head??? makes a huge difference. old "1.94 fuelie heads" in stock form will not make much more than 400hp. They just don't flow enough. 10.5:1 cr will need a big cam to run with pump gas (290 to 310 degrees seat to seat duration). which would be a mismatch for a regular edelbrock performer intake. you need an edelbrock rpm intake. Plus the heads will need to be machined to hold stronger valve springs (1.5" od). you will also need the flywheel and balancer for a 400. (externally balanced). http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0306_chevrolet_406_big_block_torque/index.html check out this article

Yes, that is correct. But don't forget about the torque! 350ftlbs will go to 490 ftlbs with 6 psi of boost. Or 590 ftlbs with 10 psi, and 635 ftlbs with 12 psi of boost. torque is what gets the car moving!!

that 5.3 also has a transmission with it.

get something like this. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5-3-engine-and-transmission-TURNKEY-running-ls1-ls2-ls7_W0QQitemZ300271137087QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item300271137087&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A727%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318#ht_1977wt_1002 it will be much cheaper than building an engine.

stock 1978 350 with stock cam and exhaust manifolds (185hp/275 ftlbs) would run about a 14.5 at 95 mph in a Z. (as stated by the JTR V8 conversion manual). Add a mild cam and some block hugger headers and a better intake to run a high 13 at 100 mph. Run 10:1 cr, lopey cam, 750 holley, 3.90 gears, then expect high 12's at 110. Add some better heads and some full length headers and run low 12's or high 11's.

a chevy solenoid pulls about 40 amps! You are cooking the factory relay. Use a ford remote starter solenoid to power both the gm starter and gm solenoid (at the same time). The ford solenoids cost about $20.00. wire the battery to the ford solenoid with a #2 wire then wire the solenoid to the starter with a #2. Then loop the gm solenoid to the main power coming into the starter with a short piece of #10 wire. Also, run a #2 to the engine block then add #4 from the engine block to the body.

Turns out there was a problem with the lifter bores on my 454. Even with a hydro roller cam, the lifters made noise. Stumped, so I measured the lifter bores and for some reason they only had a 0.0005 to 0.0007" clearance.??? Proper clearance is a 0.001 to 0.002" for a flat tappet and 0.0015 to 0.002 for a roller lifter. I should had the lifter bores drill and rebushed, but instead, I just machined down a set of hydro flat tappet lifters 0.0005". And installed an over-cam oiling system by BC Engineering. So far, so good. And I'm using ZDDP oil additive in regular gasoline engine oil since the new diesel engine oil lost it's zinc also.

typically the trans mount is cut out for more room. However, if the transmission was a 4 speed manual then the mounts should be intact. (automatic need more room). However, not a big deal to make a new mount.

used a 5 bolt hole plate to replace the stock wastegate then bored a 1 inch hole at the stock wastegate site of the T3. I also used a slip fit joint at the top and two hole flanges at both ends. Yes, I'm happy with it. no problems for over 5 years now. It is a 76 280.

here is mine.

if you have a performance cam then get a case if this. http://www.zddplus.com/

deltacam will resurface stock rocker arms for 4.00/each. They also do cam regrinds for 60.00. I use a zddp oil additive. cost 10.00 extra for each oil change.