Tank

I replaced the washers with the rbryant kit. I wonder how many people are using the stock halfshafts? That could be one problem, the stub axle being slightly shorter than the cv axle stub. Not sure, I'm thinking of selling all of the R200 stuff I have and going with a sti R180 after some light reading on beta motorsports site. Oh and JMortenson, I think you have the solution, but I'm at the point were I want a reliable part, hence the change.

Same thing is happening to me. I have an OBX in a 3.9 R200 and it sounds like it is coming apart on deceleration. I took it to a diff shop where they took it apart and found nothing wrong. I noticed the right (long) side axle was scrubbing the housing. I should also say I am using half shafts, not cv shafts. I have reinstalled everything but have not driven it yet, the car isn't exactly street legal so I have to be picky about the times I test drive it. I expect the same results, insane right? If it still occurs, I will switch to a solid spacer.

NisTech outside of Charlotte. Those guys are great and have done work on my 240. If you go there, tell them Tank referred you! There is also Rock Vest (RV Performance) in Lewisville. He has done some head work for me, he is probably the best Datsun mechanic in NC.

I had that problem years ago and it turned out to be broken control arm bolts at the differential. My z changed lanes without moving the steering wheel, not a fun feeling when you're going 75. Scary problem, easy fix.

I dropped the diff out today and nothing is obvious, the pinion flange seems to be good and tight. When I look through the center of the diff, the washers still look ok. Not sure what's going on, so I am going to run it by East Coast Gear Supply in Raleigh to see what they say. I'm also going to see if they have a solution to the washers, as in a solid spacer what JMortensen is talking about.

So I just took the Z out for a nice Sunday morning run and heard some bad noises. I installed obx unit described above in a rebuilt r200 3.9. Upon acceleration, everything is good, but when I let off the gas I hear some nasty grinding/rattling noises coming from the differential. Ideas? Help?!

Those are just 280zxt companion flanges, I need the modern motorsports adapters. Worse case I can have some made with the ones you have, I will be in touch. Thanks.

I ordered the machined adapters on may 25th and shipped my cores. The cores got to MM on june 6th. After several attempts to get an update I heard nothing and was forced to dispute the transaction with paypal. That has since been settled and I have still heard nothing from MM. Send me a pm when you get a chance with price and shipping to 27703. Thanks.

What to buy modern motorsports 280zxt cv adapters! Billet or machined. Had a bad experience with MM so I am trying to get my hands on these parts indirectly! Thanks.

I pulled the R180 diff out of my '73 240 and it has the 3.36 ratio r&p. The car was an original 4 speed and the manual I have for it says it is supposed to have a 3.54. But there should be no shortages of 3.36 out of the R180.

I just installed the updated version of rbryant's kit and here are some pics. The gears have been reversed. Hardware on the top is what came in the unit, hardware on the bottom is the rbryant bolt/washer kit. What I found is that if I install the "new" stack )()()(, the larger washer rest on the retainer, so I stacked them like this )(()())(. You can see how far the retainer sticks up with this configuration before I put the cap on. Does it look acceptable?

I have two of those differentials, the 3.90 is out of an 83 non turbo 5sp, the differential that is pictured in the middle is a 3.54 out of an 83 turbo auto. You might want to pull the rear cover off of the diff and check the ratio. If it says 39:10, it is a 3.9. The 3.54 is 39:10. I can try different drive shafts on them if you would like, I have a few laying around. Oh and you will know the cover is correct if it does NOT fit your R180 mustache bar.

It looks exactly like the R180 I pulled out of my 1981 Automatic parts car. kudos

This looks really similar. My link And I though datsun r180 halfshafts have a 4 bolt flange off of the diff.

I believe that is a subaru R180.

BBAAAAHHH, that's awesome! I meant compared to a V8 or maybe an inline 6 relatively speaking

I had an S13 5spd that I drove for 3 or so years and drove the absolute dog **** out of. I kept in mind that a 4 cylinder will never have whiplash torque. It was peppy and good for wet drifts and fun e-brake turns. No matter what that car kept going. A turbo on the KA motor would make it a really fun car and would cost less than a swap of any sort. That's my experience.

That's great. I bought my 240 when I was 17 (wow I've had it for 12 years now!) after I totaled my first car. And my dad was similar, he bought the first car (which was a 4 cylinder mustang), after that is was on me! Oh and after about 5 years of tickets and trouble, I finally calmed down, so slow is good for now.

When replacing the bushings on my 240 rack, I loosened the engine bolts and jacked the engine up a quarter or so. That gave me just enough room to get them in. That was after greasing, beating, cursing, and scratching my head awhile!

I have a D6F4-01 distributor out of a 77 or 78 280 with an E12-27 transistor ingnition in my 240 (F54/N42/SU) and a msd 6al box with a msd blaster 2 coil. What, if any, is the difference in the E12-27 and the E12-80. I know that the D6F4-01 is a dual point and uses the same vacuum advance curve as the -03, but the -03 is the California counterpart that is a single point. Can both of these distributors be run with the same transistor ignition?

I got ya, no problem. I'm glad I measured, it's 4 5/8". To the outside of the wheel bead is 4 7/8". But when inquiring about backspacing, the measurement doesn't include the bead. As far as clearances, I have less than an inch from the tire(rear)to the strut housing.

I have the Rota RBR 17x8.5 +4 with 245's front and rear with I believe 5.5" backspacing. The front frame rail edge had to be slightly (I mean slightly) notched. The rear fender lip had to be rolled however. That is in combination with GC coilovers and TTT camber plates. I will try and confirm the backspacing. I share this because I believe (and others do as well) that the 8.5" width with the 245 tire is about the widest you can go on a 240Z in the rear without changing hubs or installing flares.

I have the Rota RBR 17x8.5 and used these exact lugs I believe. My link I have taken the wheels off many times and the only wear is on the beveled edge that seats the wheel. They are acorn lugs but thin wall. They have worked so far!