z2go

I'm sending you a PM, I want a set!

...one more thing... if you are supposed to look in your owner's manual to see if you are correct... what was the point of all this?!

I stopped paying attention when the subtitle said "measure de gap" .....

I was afraid of that. Keeping an eye out for a tank and regulator on craigslist, doesn't seem to be much available right now...

I will be attaching mine at some point in the next few months, I did a test fit of the skirts, they seem to fit rather nicely, good overlap and they go a good amount higher than the type II skirts. It looks like they cover the entire dogleg, saving any need to cosmetically repair the dogleg section... unless of course you plan on taking them off at some point.

hahaha!

I think it means "Saint Diego"

Sweet, maybe I'll use these to change the orginal orange a bit...

Keep us updated!

Any chance of a reference for the greater Sacramento area? There was mention earlier in this post, but only secretively and as a "call me and I'll give you the secret to life's great mysteries" tipper.

I agree with the rivets, I was planning on doing that. The main concern is the gap between the body and the fiberglass, how it comes out of the box, jagged and only partially cut to the shape of the body. Any ideas for that?

On getting fiberglass bodykit parts to match up, I am finding it hard to find any solid info on the process, what works best, and what does not work at all. I'm considering blending the edges, which is what MSA advises in their own instructions that came with their fiberlass body kit, but I am also thinking of using this method, that I found in a post from 2005 from VintageTechZ: <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Here's a way to get a perfect fit for you guys (providing your shop of choice or YOU,are willing to do it). ..........With bumpers off......cut a strip of wax paper long enough to wrap clear across the area where the part will make contact to the body. Tape this in place.Place the part into its final resting place for fitment and use a permanaent marker to give the top outline onto the wax paper.Remove the part. Now use some fiberglass strips wetted out with resin, and place them ON the line (wax paper line) going just about a quarter of an inch over the line and the ends of where the part ends.Let the first layer GEL,then repeat with more strips. Three builds with cloth and mat should suffice for this step. NOW....once the strips of glass has dried,(no longer tacky) Take a 36 grit sander and somewhat smooth out the texture of the glass so there are NO high spots. Reposition your body part...and attatch your newly made flange to your body part(with more glass mat/cloth and resin )that now has a " Body matched" fitment ! Of course all finishing stages are neccasary before final paint. <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> This way looks interesting, but I can't figure out how to replicate his instructions without seeing it done... I guess I can't visualize it properly. Any help on this?

I think I may try that method and see what it does for me... I was able to make a small weld that way the other day without burning through, but didn't try to do a string like that.

Grumpy, It's a SiP Migmate Super Dual Purpose. The wire speed is infinitely adjustable, but I question how infinitesimal it really is... Luckily I did not go out and spend anything on this welder... it was given to me by my dad to get me started.

Save the animals, eat a vegetarian.

My Z story isn't exotic, but it involves nearly four decades and a father-son thing... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=154415

Maybe this is Russia's attempt at post-commie era frivolous bling... I don't think they've fine tuned it well enough yet...

So, I'm trying to experiment with the welder I have... the only work I need it for is to weld in new floor pans, patch the dog legs, and fix the rear upper sill. The welder I have has an adjustable wire feed, but a series of buttons to adjust the power... it reminds me of the buttons on a blender, with a high/low and three variations within each high/low. I started practicing on some 22ga sheet metal, with .030 flux core on the lowest power setting... it seems to blast right through the metal very easily, along with warping, splattering, and what-not. When playing with the settings, I only got more disastrous results. I was able to shoot a few spots that stuck, when going very quickly... So, question time... should I give up trying to use the flux core and invest in some gas to use with the .023 for this thin stuff, or is there something I can do to improve my results with flux core? What do you guys recommend for getting the flux core to work with what I need to do?

Excellent! Thanks Gord. That's not a bad idea on making some extra headroom.

GMAC, First off, excellent build. I found the entire build you are doing on Nicoclub, you are the man. I had a question for you on the seat brackets, since you cut them out, what was your method of re-attaching them properly? The only way that I could think of getting them aligned right would be to use the seat bracket itself, was this what you did? I'm thinking of just lifting the replacement pan up from the bottom and welding it from there, so I don't have to cut out the seat brackets... but if it's not that hard to get the brackets lined up, I might try your method. What would you recommend?

Well, I guess that's understandable. I just received my MSA Type III body kit, if you haven't checked it out, it's probably new since you last looked for body kits. I'm thinking that if it's only been 10 years, you probably knew about the Type II kit. A lot of people have complained in the past about the Type II skirts being twisted, but I did not have that problem with the Type III. Of course, the front and rear are going to take some serious work to get them all lined up properly.

+1 for the heat gun and paint scraper method. I tried it out on the coating on the inside of one of the fenders, with the heat gun at about 900 degrees, it only takes a few moments to heat it enough to make it soft and easy. It made it so the project only lasted about 15 minutes!

That's how dirty rumors get started! Shame on you.

I know it has been mentioned here and there before, but I wanted to throw out a quick endorsement for an awesome product that might help some of you guys out. I recently ordered Cunifer (also known as Cuperonickel, or 90/10 copper/nickel) brake and fuel lines from Fedhillusa. The stuff is amazing. It is incredibly easy to shape without any tools, you can do a surprisingly tight full 180 bend without it kinking. Just as an example, when I made the small "S" shaped line that goes from the caliper to the flex line, I was able to bend it to match the original surprisingly easily, without fear of it kinking, and put it together in 5 minutes. I also recommend if you go this route, to rent their flaring tool. It's a 375 dollar deposit, with about 20/week to rent the tool, I believe. It's completely worth it, I put EVERY brake line needed together in about an hour. So, if you are looking to replace all of your original hard lines, and don't want to spend $600 on pre-bent replacements, this is definitely the way to go! Fedhill is run by a guy named Tim and his wife, and their customer service is phenomenal. Their website is http://www.fedhillusa.com. So now that I just made an infomercial, what have your experiences been like?

I did a thorough search of the DMV website, as well as the SMOG website, and I had a general idea of everything everyone pointed out... I just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to be in for a crazy surprise when I went to go operational. Thanks guys for the info!