z2go

The thing that can cause 'welding sickness' or whatever you want to call it is usually from welding galvanized materials. A lot of the metals in the z were given a zinc coating to prevent corrosion, so if you didn't properly prep those areas... that could be the reason. You can usually tell because of that yellowish tint, kind of like what you see on restored engine parts. I would think that a big open shop with lots of ventilation would keep you from getting sick, especially if you avoided breathing the fumes. From what I've read, it shouldn't leave you sick for more than a day or so, so if it's ongoing and you haven't been welding a few days, I would probably guess it's not the fumes that got you, it might be something else. Of course, the disclaimer here is you should probably talk to a doctor before you take my advice on what to do about how you feel, only you and your doctor can determine the real cause.

I just downloaded it, and then scanned it for viruses or malware with Norton 360. None found!

I don't think he's shady or out to screw someone over... at least that's not the impression I get with the ad, but you never know. I do think it's funny that he says he will lower the price for cash-in-hand... I don't know many craigslist transactions that AREN'T cash deals... does he accept MasterCard?

Car looks cool. But... I don't like the interior, it looks confusing and incredibly cramped. How are you supposed to get in? I'm thinking the door sill is a foot wide!! I guess that's why it's a concept and not production.

Thanks Jon, that helps

I read your thread also Jon, I got that impression, but it seemed no one had a proven setup, either way...

There is hope yet for electric cars.

Good eye on that, logan. What's the VIN on that baby???

Sounds like a sweet deal. However, I must say...

After much research, I'm at a crossroad, and wanted to check with anyone who has done the V8 setup before. I'm planning on running 3/8" hard line as the feed line, and 5/16"(stock feed) as the return, with a 12psi mallory comp 140 electric fuel pump and bypass regulator to dial in the pressure at the carb. My concern is, will having a slightly smaller return line cause premature wear on a 12 psi pump if I'm dialing it down to 6 or7psi? If so, should I just go with the Mallory 110, which is set at 7 psi? I am concerned that the carb might starve if the pump isn't able to pump slightly more than is needed. For reference, planned setup is SBC 350 mild build 300-350hp.

You have to have the floors in first in order to have something to weld the supports to. It's a pain, because they won't fit perfectly, and you will have to do some hammering and have to be careful not to warp them when welding. You have the choice of cutting out the seat rails, and going in from the top, or leaving the seat rails and coming up from the bottom, too. I recommend doing a search on the subject both here and Zcar.com, there are a few threads dedicated to the subject.

Has anyone who has done the JTR conversion and followed the cooling recommendations closely ran into this problem? In other words, with the JTR aluminum/plastic radiator, one of the recommended fans, thermostat, etc.

I like this thread. I'm a native Californian, and where I'm from, people drive fast, but somehow effectively... where I am now in California, the boondocks, everyone is on a Sunday drive. They drive 10mph under the posted speed limit, in the middle of nowhere. When I lived in San Antonio, TX, people drove like they were the only ones on the road. You could expect to have someone switch lanes into your car, drive 35mph on the freeway for no reason. Instead of the normal merge rule, for some reason every highway had a yield rule. San Antonians read that as a stop sign, which caused me to almost rear end people many times, while I was looking over my left shoulder to assess traffic, seeing none, speeding up, and then swerving off the road for some idiot stopped at the junction. Maryland/Washington DC drivers are even better! Everyone drives like they hate everyone else on the road and they want to get to their destination twice as fast as the next guy. However, if it starts raining, they slow down to HALF of the posted speed limit and creep slowly down the interstate. Can anyone explain that phenomenon???

Super nice bike, but he's probably right... beware of the 5000 dollar V8 Z!!

Definitely come back with your results. I have my money on air bubbles in the radiator, and the coolant settling... at least that's what I'm hoping it is, for your sake!

Amen to this! You can never be too careful. Think of it as an iceberg... what you can see on the surface (i.e. rust, damage, paint flaking, etc.) is only 10% of the problem, the rest hides in all the crevices you can't see until you start taking it apart!

I was going to say it's the "Easy" button, to make any problems disappear quickly. What an ugly hunk of junk to have in your engine bay!

Another thing to consider is the state it's going to be registered in... different states have different rules for transferring salvaged titles. I had a salvaged Z that I bought in California and registered in Texas... no problem, until I wanted to sell it after moving back to California, the VIN that Texas had written on the title was not the original VIN, rather, some kind of recovery VIN, that they told me I had to take to a Texas police station to get certified from their database of original VIN's vs. recovery VIN's... what a mess. In any case, I got it worked out without doing all that, but still... these are the kinds of headaches you could face.

I'm looking for a T5 or T56 manual transmission for my Chevy V8 conversion project. I would prefer a WCT5 over anything, but let me know what you've got.

I have an air dam that looks like that one for sale, it's urethane. 240z turn signal holes and no license plate area. PM if interested.