z2go

The Dupli-color is 6.99 for a 17oz spraycan, seems pretty good. The rustoleum was about 50 cents more for 2 ounces less. When I went to remove the rustoleum, it seemed to stick pretty well, I ran a wire wheel over it, and it didn't do much except scuff up the surface and turn it gray. I had to get the heat gun out, and then it softened up and came off. I just didn't like how it didn't have much build, and it was not rubbery as I thought it would be.

I guess when it is Walmart's major brand of automotive repair materials, I should have known what I was dealing with...

Might be good time to change the rest of the bushings! Although, I said that at one point... and now I'm in the middle of a full resto-mod...

Pay the 10 or 15 bucks to run a VIN check. It's worth it to have the peace of mind on a 4 or 5 figure purchase. However, keep in mind that it won't show you any damage that was repaired by the owner outside of an insurance claim and some body shops that don't report it.

Another thing to note on the durability... it seems that the Rustoleum will turn a light gray when scratched, and the Dupli-color seems to be more durable in that aspect.

Resurrecting this thread... Vinny, are you still out there and if so, looking for some clarification on this process... do you have any pictures or diagrams on creating this flange? I like your idea but I am confused on the strip... are you saying to make the top of the strip stick out above the marked line, in a sense 'flaring' the edge out, and then grind it down flat to create a smooth edge that is flush with the body?

I bought a few cans of both Rustoleum professional rubberized undercoating, and a few cans of Dupli-Color professional rubberized undercoating, and sprayed them on some cardboard so that I could compare the two, and I thought you guys might benefit from the findings. Both advertised the same benefits, that they were sound deadening, flexible, paintable, etc. I found that the dupli-color went on thicker, and you could get much more build with it than the Rustoleum. The dupli-color also ended up being much more flexible. I cut a 1 inch square out of the middle of both test sprays, and the rustoleum actually flaked apart and was not very flexible. The Dupli-color was very rubbery, and seemed to hold up better. Unfortunately I did this after spraying the rustoleum in a wheel well... so I will be removing it to re-apply with Dupli-color. From what I've heard, dupli-color is comparable to 3m in its thickness and application. I don't have any comparison with longevity, of course... does anyone have any info on how either have held up over time?

Grumpy, I agree with you totally. I actually am now set up with 75/25 and a regulator, so I should hopefully see some better results. As this is a one-time project, if I can get it to work halfway decent, I will be happy, especially since none of these will be cosmetic welds.

Payment sent. Now all I need are the turn signals... anyone?

I agree with WizardBlack though, a garage with a good washing, I would think, would be enough.

Sorry, i just realized that the 280 isn't going to bolt on properly if I just get rid of the 240 grille. So, the grille I have is no longer for sale, but I would like that 280 grille to fab something up. How does $30 shipped sound to you?

I have an original 72 240 grille that I want to trade for the 280 style grille, as well as the turn signals that go with it. My 72 grille has a slight bend in the top that is fixable if disassembled, but not noticeable when on the car. It has not been restored, but is not in bad shape otherwise. For the 280 grille, looking for something that is not painted over, and is at least 95% straight. Turn signals need to be in good condition as well with no cracks and functioning. Of course, I am willing to buy the 280 grille setup outright if you don't have a need for the 72 grille, and I am happy to compensate for the lopsided trade.

Shouldn't you be working on a Z?

You just gave me an idea....

It sounds to me like putting the car in a large plastic baggie would speed up the rusting process... unless you dipped the entire car in something like WD40 and sucked all the air out, and had a trap for any remaining moisture to flow to. Now where can I get a 3000 gallon tub of WD40?

Maybe... its... a... very... supple... leather?

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/30-7291 That is the one you are looking for. Be advised, this panel is spot welded on to a sort of shelf that it originally just sits on... creating a gap with two pieces of metal with a few spot welds, and a great spot for rust to take hold. If that panel is rusted, you might look inside and see if it has also started to come through into the interior underneath, and you'll need to fab up some sheet metal to weld in its place.

Dallas car looks way overpriced. He said 1700 firm, so I doubt he will be ok with 1000 on the table. A tip on the rust bit... anywhere that you usually see pinhole rust from behind otherwise good looking paint means that the rust has come from the inside, and eaten all the way out, so that area needs to be completely cut out and replaced. And I would bet that the odometer has rolled over once or twice, or three times... no way to tell, and I highly doubt it has 60k miles!

Nice find Sparks! I hope you talked with the owner for a while to get the nostalgic history on it As for the car in question for which this post is about... I say give him 50 bucks for just the spoiler, then run, run away!

I second the caliper theory. It's easy and quick to check at least.

Not that this thread was ever headed for greatness, but I think it just took a turn south, hahaha

It seems that once you get one, you can't get enough! I guess one Z is never really enough...