G-E

If in doubt, use the Nissan method, after warmup, back off half a turn, then retorque...

1. definitely aero, either uneven airflow or just too susceptible to crosswind or something, possibly too light on the front wheels? 2. something is moving or twisting under biased load, since it happens in either direction, I'd lean towards the chassis twisting (you use rodend arms/links no?) 3. could be a combination of aero and spring rate, does the car rise and dip sharply between shifts, or oscillate at all?

For your captive pipe problem, could you not install a compression fitting that can be undone easily? or use a cup-and-o-ring setup like many oem injectors, since you know they'd have a hard time coming apart on their own?

Love the fuel setup, do you remember the oooooold Audi 5000 had a similar hardline setup for the spark? that would be epic hahah

I agree with Reb, if you're lifting the last thing you want is a bigger swaybar at the back, you should instead be looking at rollcenter adjustment for the front, or stiffer springs. Just like with pain, sometimes the symptom isn't located near the cause...

Haha! The art of tracing will never die! Looks awesome...

http://responsetype.com/shop/fairlady-z/60mm-studs-13mm-undersized/

Because you need a hard head to drive a datsun

Well that's the paradox of experience, the more experience someone has, the less they care about enabling technology? Believe it or not, I prefer calling people and having a real talk, then using email as the reminder for that...

Coming to a stop in a turbo car always results in a rich situation, so that may or may not mean anything... it is possible you have a boost leak rather than vacuum leak. Did you do any smoke tests or spray ether around?

The "hybrid" axle used by Z31 guys in the writeups end up too long even with the ball cages flipped, you'd really need a new axle shaft for the J30/Z31 ends.

This isn't quite so simple... the Q45 and R32 diffs have a different style "large" housing, and I believe there's some minor bolt hole variation among the others?

Just fyi a straight RCA will reduce camber ever so slightly...

Since he can't plug his odb probe into the Z, he probably tried to use the hall sensor on your spark plug wires (or some other stupid place) and didn't get a proper rpm signal... I'm guessing this was a stationary test without using the dyno?

I agree this is definitely a heat-treat (or lack of) problem... The parts look super smooth so I doubt they even used pre-hardened material, and the lack of discolouration of the end makes me think they used "billet" as-is, but I couldn't be certain of that. Also keep in mind that overtightening the stub's retaining nut, or having CV joints with excess play (unequal distribution of torque leading to bending stress) all can exacerbate an otherwise less serious issue.

I have a set of ae86 coilovers converted from stock struts by JIC, the owner hit a wall drifting and one is bent. The bend is almost imperceptible and is located right where the tubing meets the base (cast portion), I checked tube straightness where accessible with no obvious curving, but it's still bent. If I measure from the hub face to the strut tube, it clearly deviates from the good one.

I recommend getting the thrust bearing blocks that some companies like stance and fortuneauto sell separately, they replace the upper spring perch with somehting thicker... The main benefit is under compression your spring will be able to rotate freely, as it wants to, and it will add about 1" of height to the mount.

The only time dimples or texturing matters is where the fuel enters the tract far away from the valve... since most fuel injected vehicles have a relatively short distance between fuel and valve, you won't notice a thing. On older cars with old TBI injectors or carbs that spray poorly, I'm sure there's some recovery of inefficiency, but again this wouldn't be the case with modern injection hardware. The other side of the equation is the air characteristics, texture changes the way the air hugs and tears from the wall (boundary layer). If you have lots of texture, you also have lots of directions that impede or cancel each other, which is why it will alternately behave like a larger cross section or smaller cross section, depending on density and speed. At best you could see it like a resonator in an exhaust, in most cases it doesn't affect anything, in a few cases it helps, in a few cases it does hurt flow, but ultimately it won't make things perform as well as a bigger pipe. Visually the best way to visualize it is a ton of little aerofoils with their own laminar flow and shock fronts in different directions. Venturies are always smooth, carbs are always smooth, it's not an accident.

I might suggest making a new version with a wide clevis to sandwich the control arm, most hotrod/offroad shops these days will have some sizes on hand, if you're lucky you can find one a tiny bit bigger and use washers to take up the space. Otherwise make the new plate from 4140HT, I love that stuff...

From what I've seen they are a bit weaker, and have a higher tendency to shatter if there's too much shock or misalignment, but where that upper limit is is debatable. Personally I wouldn't worry so much about the strength, but would investigate if there are better particular types of lube for ceramic vs all steel.

PCD = 4.5" / 114.3mm Holes = 10.5mm

Then you'll likely have to have your axles modified to work, don't expect the circlips that hold the axles in to line up...

If you have the 88SS axles yes, just make sure it's the s13/s14 vlsd, others use different gear/shim arrangements and you'd need to modify things...

Boosted should have talked to me man, I have nissan-datsun specific cromoly studs coming out of my ass haha

Yes, you need the two arms solidly attached, and then the two rodends at the body make it act like a bind-free A-arm. If you look at the AZCAR kit you see they use a clevis which prevents deflection somewhat. I really don't understand TTT, they make a lot of noob mistakes in their designs, like making something super strong, with a super weak spot.