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Treadstone has some interesting options like baffled endtanks and side flow ones like the old spearcos... but they are creeping up in price.

Pathfinders should be ODB1 at least, maybe you can borrow a scan tool? Your CHTS equivalent is in the water neck, and the fsm lists a resistance chart to verify it's in the correct range, though I suspect it's more likely corroded terminals if there's a problem. The coils rarely go bad, but the power transistors do, I would suggest grabbing some spares from a junkyard, the little gray thing with 2 bolt holes that hangs off your plenum on a bent bracket on your model iirc... Your fuel pump could also be gummed up with varnish if it sat for a long time with premium gas (often contains some additives that degrade into waxy goo), dumping injector cleaner in might help, but might make things worse too. Thing is you're trying to diagnose a myriad of moving parts with a questionable history that aren't attached to sensors to throw codes. Rather than getting emotional about it, just clean it up one problem at a time. A VG needs very few sensors to run/start, and only a couple more to run well.

Exactly, we all know how it goes... Excitable owner spends $20k building engine, promptly blows it up, transfers most of the bolt-on parts to a spare block "temporarily", re-tunes, runs for 3 years just fine... The only consistent theme in this whole thread regarding the sohc VG is headwork, headwork, headwork. Literally everything else is secondary to a good port and valve job. You can start with a low compression turbo block, or a medium compression non-turbo block, it doesn't matter. Get the right turbo, get the right cams, and get the headwork done, that's the secret sauce to making it sing. It amazes me how much of a pissing contest this thread is, speculation, bs, random assertions, for what? To prove that one engine didn't put out? Pfffffffft!

A cheaper option would be making some spacers to fit between the calipers and the ears... the only downside would be the caliper sticking out towards the wheel more. Is this fancy machined thing so necessary ?

The z31 afm reads 2-7vdc, and you have to modify the ecu to accept a 0-5v signal (and get a 0-5v afm like z32 which uses the same plug too) if you want to use the s-afc...

As someone who has seen many x-rays, including live scanning of wheels, I'm still impressed... for a first casting, that's still damned good BTW the wheels get scanned with the flashing only trimmed to a minimum but the rollers on the outside, they leave the lug holes and bore filled with cones too, they do as little as possible before the x-ray step. I know it's probably obvious, but I'd make sure you have a clear system/workflow what you need to do first vs after. If you do find problem areas, consider adding more expansion pockets to machine off after...

Nistune is also not garbage, it allows you to tune everything that nissan programmed the ecu capable of doing, AND MORE. The one thing it doesn't do well is "auto-tune" which is why lazy fks don't like it...

If you get a turbo ecu and turbo injectors, with the correct AFM, you should be able to run as-is with no tweaking up to about 280hp, higher if you use a rising-rate fpr... If you're running wonky, it might be related to the CHTS signal, did you install one? the early pathfinder has a sealed kind you can tap into a filler neck just fyi...

I make a couple of kits for the Z31 people that may be relevant: A subframe swap kit, with hardened pins pre-welded to some brackets, they get bolted into the subframe, raised into place while you cut away everything on the car to make things fit. The work is not really hard, just extensive and expensive after all the arms, driveshaft, diff etc are totaled up. Most swaps run well over $2k in my experience, usually close to $3k http://responsetype.com/shop/gazelle-s12/subframe-swap-kit-2/ And a Z32 upright to S13 style coilover adapter, which will let you re-orient the strut axis for better placement http://responsetype.com/shop/silvia-s14/aluminum-upright-strut-adapter/ The toughest part of the swap is always notching and patching the body, there's numerous places where things almost fit, then you clearance for the subframe, only to realize you can't reach a nut. Same goes for re-inforcing the subframe itself, you do that AFTER everything else fits so you know where you can add braces. Don't modify and powdercoat it off the car...

Excellent work Derek, the casting finish is remarkable...

Where's pics of the carnage? Anyway looks like you used 5/8"-ish 3-piece rodend, but the rest of the hardware is unclear, did you weld a nut to the arm for a double adjuster? As for the added strengthening parts, that is way overkill, you should have stuck with 2mm sheet laterally supporting the bolt tubes, with maybe some bead rolled X's on the flat bottom plate...

The 87 ecu is the one you want btw... much more modern electronics, better transitions, and still low-impedence.

I'm sure CX is just rebadging someone else's rods, be worth finding out who... but CX has some real idiots in their ranks, my customers have had run-ins with them getting into huge ego fights and ruining their parts. I would just as soon tell everyone to avoid them like an ******* boss...

.. pics no workie ..

That's silly, the reason your ass is in the air is that you're in a hard corner, likely trail braking already... are they suggesting you tap the brake more while trying to give it gas?

gnosez: which type or series of rodends did you use? I've seen a lot of people snap cheapo rodends in tierod applications, mainly because they can't tilt enough, and if they bind, they snap. Often exacerbated by using poly bushings on one joint, and rodends on the other... the poly allows movement putting 100% of the load on the other joints, namely the rodend. This shouldn't be as common where you have a big chunky rodend placed mostly in rotation, as you would on a control arm, or radius/tension/compression rod... again assuming you have all pivots converted to bearings/rodends.

That's silly.... grade 10.9 metric is roughly equivalent to grade 8 imperial. Which is more or less the standard for anything with a torque rating. That said, if the "rollcenter adjuster" is the negative camber type, and the threads are aluminum, then grade 8.8 is fine, but the normal spindle bolts are going to be 10.9 or better.

You're going to twist your chassis coming off the line!

What cracks tubes? You mean the spindle itself?

Reb: 5/8" = 15.8mm... I'd say 16mm on the factory ones, I can't see him using different...

9mm of knurl, followed by about 7mm of taper, and then 45mm of thread... approximately

60mm long cromoly... direct fit -- M12x1.25 thread pitch http://responsetype.com/shop/fairlady-z/60mm-studs-13mm-undersized/

You swap the entire subframe as a unit with arms and legs together... then you figure out how to make s13 rear coilovers work, and order a custom driveshaft. Here's a kind of writeup on the process for the Z31 guys who do the same: trailing arm->multilink http://responsetype.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=10 I offer a kit that might help you do the swap: http://responsetype.com/shop/gazelle-s12/subframe-swap-kit-1/

Negative camber RCA or straight RCA? NC-RCA should help carry more camber into a turn, even if your control arm doesn't add any...

Any inline-6 that people commonly swap will fit, 2jz, 1jz, rb, l28... any small v8 will fit generally speaking, the width limits using DOHC v8's but sohc's like 1uz will fit, all the domestic pushrods will fit too. If you need more info, you need serious help