240z!!!

i have 1 on a parts car 100 plus shipping its off of a 72 and will need paint

maybe...

well my steering u-joints are perfect...and from what i can tell my wheel bearings are ok....but my stearing rack looks like hell...its got fluid all over it and the boots are ate up and the tie rod ends dont look good either....and the lower ball joints are really really stiff and look ate up also

im using a universal mr. gasket mini pump...i think they are 40 bucks at advanced auto parts...and mine is running a constant 6 lbs with no problems

looking for some cheap 240z, 260z, 280z 280zx....would like them in complete condition...i do not want rolling chassis...non running or no title is ok...wrecked is ok also....needs to be in a state or 2 within tn....let me know what you have

i done that on my 240sx also...it was lowered 2 inches i think and had 17 inch wheels...just jacked it up a little then lowered it on the bat and heated up the paint while i rolled it...didnt mess the paint up at all

id say 100-150....i almost bought a pantera hatch about a month ago he only wanted 75 but it had a crack in it and the shipping would have killed me....but ill trade my stock hatch for it and some cash and come pick it up really soon...

id say get it running first then worry about modifications....oh and the last 280zx i owned sat in a field for 7 years...i took a battery and a can of starting fluid and drove it home...motors just dont lock up from sitting unless its a ridiculous amount of time or it got water in it...from a bad headgasket or something

i was just wondering cause i have a sandblaster i can use anytime and i just bought 11 bags of 40/80 grit black diamond...in prep to do my car....but thats a really good price

i know ive taken them out before...it was easier to just cut them then install new ones...i dont want to go down the long road of trying to take them out without breaking them again

i know we have different rates here...but i was wondering if you knew how much it would be for the same thing if you sand blasted it yourself?

i was gonna check that as well...cause i was reading the factory manual yesterday and that was one of the diagnosis but where would i get a new u-joint?

im running the stock valance and stock bumper

well mine is a slight wobble but is more or less a swerving...it really random but does it often like you just jerked the wheel in one direction but i dont move the steering wheel....its crazy...if i do 60 or so and let go of the steering wheel it will go straight as an arrow but when i get up to 70+ it do that swerving thing...

your "you get what you pay for" quote is flawed...honestly...i mean house of color paint isnt any better than any other big name brand...all your paying for is a name...and most of the parts for the z cars that you come across is the same part that some companys have bought there part and threw there name on it...you could pay more from one person and less from another and its still the same part... its honestly based off how much work you want to put into it...the more work you do the less a painter will charge...oh and fyi...me and my dad had a dodge dakota and we had it painted in 1999...we did all the prep work and post work ourselves and took it to mayco and they sprayed it with a metallic blue and still to this day the truck look amazing with not 1 chip, run, streak or any kind of inperfection...and it only cost us 299

like the title says looking for some after market springs preferably in 175 front 200 in the rear or something close to that...this is a street/daily so i cant use any radical springs but want something stiffer so i can make my homemade coil over setup

im gonna get the rest of my suspension parts together and do it all at once...im gonna need spindle pins(so i can put in the rear poly bushings), tie rods inner and outer and lower balljoints and probably go ahead and do the wheel bearings while im at it then get an alinment...i planned on doing this in incriments but looks like ill be doing everything all at once which is gonna make it easier...

i just redone all the the brakes as well...and when i brake it stops good...but I'm assuming you mean does it swerve or jitter while braking...if that's what you mean than no it doesn't do anything abnormal..

it depends on how much prep work and post work you do yourself...hell if you do all the prep work and buy the paint mayco will shoot it for cheap and do a good job..then you can do all the post work like buffing sanding ext....it also depends on what color and stage your going with of coarse 1 stage is gonna be cheaper than 2 but 2 is a 100 times better.......but if your looking for someone to do all the prep and post work plus paint im with sweetleaf 3-5k if you do everything but paint itself id say 500-1000

yeah i put poly steering rack bushings on it also...i even upgraded the front sway bar from the stock 16mm i believe to a beefy 1"...im surprised how much better it handles but im not satisfied until i can do at least 120mph without trying to fight it to stay staight...although i wont be going that fast very often but thats my goal for the suspension

i installed all new poly bushings in the front including the coupler(i also have all the rear poly bushings but havent installed them yet)...but i really have to say that took all the play out of my steering wheel...when i move the steering wheel it actually turns...

tie rods and ball joints were gonna be my next purchase...and as for the rear; that explains a whole lot because when i go over a speed bump it acts like it has no spring cause it just hits it hard....the back must be sagged so much its just bottomed out.... after i get the rest of my bushings on which should be sometime next week and get my rear swaybar on then im gonna get the ball joints and tie rods and put them on then ill give ya'll an update and let you know how it works out

the tires are very new and only have a couple thousand miles but the old tires didnt show any kind of abnormal wear and neither are the ones on there now.... another problem...i was at my buddy marks and he randomly asked me if i have camber kits...and i said "no why"....he goes cause your back tires have a lot of camber...i went and looked at my car and darned if they didnt...they are angled in at the top and out at the bottom but i dont have camber kits and i have the stock rear suspension...what could cause this? and could this be a part of my problem?

the p.o. had the an aliment on it right before i got it and it was doing it then...although it being done right is questionable....how is toe adjusted?

first i have a 72' 240z...now ive had this problem for a while and just did some work and its still doing it...whenever i drive on the highway it likes to swerve off by itself without me moving the wheel...i cant tell if its just random or when i hit bumps...but it does it the whole time im on the highway it almost feels like the wind is blowing me around...last week i bought a full poly bushing kit and got it yesterday and decided to put the front bushings on with a 1" sway bar which replaced my 16mm one...after driving it, it handles much better but still does that swerve thing on the highway...all my tires are balanced and i checked the outer tie rods and the lower ball joints and regreased them they look and feel to be in good working order...i have 14" rims and there is a small spacer on each of them (i dont think it matters though)....the only thing that i can thing of is the wheel bearings or the steering rack but i dont want to guess at this and wanted to find out if anyone had the same problem...all help is apreciated cory