240z!!!

that would make sense ecu doesnt sense air then screws everything thing else...

something wrong with your idle air control valve then....you can take the screw all the way out and spray cleaner in it...it should be in your intake between runner 2-3 i believe

i assume the boots your talking about are the inner tie rod dust boots...if so then they are only meant to keep dust and crud off your inner tie rods...there should be some kind of seal at each end of the rack...further more to prevent the burnout of your power steering pump i would suggest taking the belt off...(running your power steering pump empty will burn it up) at least until you get it fixed... you should be able to get a rebuilt rack from any of the parts vendors(autozone ect.) if not you could get a rebuild kit and have someone repair the old one

depending what sr your using your ecu should have a check engine light on the bottom of it...use a screwdriver to check the codes...fix all vacuum leaks and make sure your getting good fuel pressure...id say its fuel or your timing is off plus vacuum leaks or a combination of all 3...more specs?

haha i was helping him out over the phone and actually used the exact post listed to describe to him how to wire it...thanks for that...just wish it wasnt so hard to find...took me a while

is that a honda delsol front bumper? id throw in 20 to watch it burn...group buy? we can get 1000 people on this forum to throw in a dollar....haha

man this just makes me feel old....ok so im 20...but ive had cars in my life since i was 12 by the time i was 14 i could rebuild 2 stoke motors without help...i started with with older cars first car being a 68 2dr nova..second being 82 280zx...and ive had 40+ cars and ive worked on everyone of them my self(except for thing that i couldnt do with the tools i had...such as an alignment)...but ive watched pletty of my friends go through nadc(nashville auto desiel college) i dont think that a day goes by that i dont have a wrench in my hand working on someones car...but everyday ive worked on a car whether it be from experience, watching someone do something, or listening to someone rant about cars ive always learned something new...anyways no one on this forum can read mind and for all we know you could be working on a studabaker so being specific really really helps....thats one of the things that bothers me the most(other than people asking questions that have been anwsers a million and a half times)

use a meat dehydrator...it will really dry it out good without phisically burning it...

that is very high for a rolling shell...let alone its a 280z and not a 240z so its worth that much less...

well due to the lack of interests its hacked up in a million pieces..but i know its been in a wreck it has a 73 or later radiator core support because it has a hood seal metal holder and has the bolts underneath the core support for the tow hook looking thing that was only on 73 and later cars

that would probably work great...you could probably even spray it on the back of the fender then shave it down to fit then paint it and it wouldnt look so messy....

whoa whoa whoa....do not use "great stuff"....it is an open cell foam and holds moisture and will cause rust on anything it touches...i would suggest a closed cell foam that doesnt hold moisture...my buddy worked for a foam company that foamed the inside of houses...they used a closed foam it held heat better, it was a sound deadener(they actually used it to do music studio's) and it didnt hold moisture

the car doesnt necessarily have to be a v8 but must be a 240z with no rust...all cars will be considered though...but im just looking for a z car i cant resist

awww man it has a sun roof....if the car was a good bit in price lower but thats a lot of work to make it right again...

...im looking for a decent project so im not wanting to pay an arm and a leg....economy still down cars are still going for nothing...it honestly depends on the car though on how much im willing to pay, dont really have much of a budget but what ive set for myself but i dont wanna completed car unless some wants to give it to me for an awesome price..

i thought that was hilarious...haha

im looking for a 240z v8 project has to be mostly complete...but more or less a project...i would prefer a 5 or 6 speed manual...and please no rust...i will need pictures of floors, hatch, spare tire well, inner fender wells, preferably pictures of under the picture(at least pictures of the rocker thats under the front fenders...ect...ill consider just about anything...maybe even 260z or 280z...sorry no zx's...i have cash and im ready to buy...

the reason why its probably staying on is because of bad wires to the alternator...probably the jumper wires....and that motor sounds exactly like the old turbo i used to have leaky injectors coupled with a bad afm did it for me...have you tried adjusting the afm?...have you checked or adjusted timing? also check your plugs and see what they look like there are diagnostic pictures of plugs for reference all over the internet...

thats exactly what im looking for....those are the only ones that look good with the rear done only...i want to do my car like yours is... if anyone knows where a set is please let me know

im looking for some flares that ive been searching for, for a while...i believe they are jim cooks racing flares...they are molded with the bumper indentions and with the lower rear quarter indentions...ive looked for hours at a time and cant find them...im looking for just the rears...if anyone could help that would be great

How does the Mr. Gasket handle running dry frequently? actually i put my mr. gasket fuel pump in before i cleaned the tank(the mr gasket comes with a screw on fuel filter before it and you can get replacements) and ive actually ran it dry multiple times and i had to get out with a wrench and tap on the filter until the crud unclogged but its never went out on me.... when i hooked mine up i used 14g wire and got one of those old universal truck headlight switches that holds a fuse because it says run it inline with a fuse and also you can cut the pump off if it does get clogged....it also doubles as a steal safe devise cause if you hide the switch and turn it off when you get out if someone steals your car they can only get so far with the gas in the float bowls and probably wont take the time to figure out whats wrong

id keep the l24 in it with carbs....go out and get a good fuel pump(electric)...(ive got a mr. gasket mini fuel pump ive had on my car for almost a year and it works perfect, they have them in stock at advanced auto parts)...make sure there is absolutely no crud in the gas tank what so ever...put new fuels lines and make sure your evap. tank lines are good...id also get a 60 amp internally regulated alt. its like 65 bucks at advanced and do the upgrade(so you know for a fact that you wont break down becuase of charging system..get a new battery, do all regular maintenance, and all fluids...and drive it around for a while to make sure there are no more bugs...and as someone already suggested fix all exhuast leaks....other than that you could do an electronic distributor with a new coil....but id stay l24 carb'd for the simple fact that if you do have some leftover crud in the tank and it gets to the carbs the carbs wont really care about it as much as fuel injection will and its no fun breaking down only to gas soaked on a long trip with the possibility of it doing it again...oh and because ive had a carb'd 240z for ever and driven it daily for the entire time ive had it with no problems

last pics...what the car looks like halfway complete

more pics

i was wondering if the structure of this car is compromised...is this car repairable with stock frame rails ei no tube chassis...id really like to fix this car if all possible because its vin # 7081 and comes with tons of nice rare series one parts like an uncracked dash, the toolboxes behind the seats, original seat belts, original series 1 seats, matching numbers motor with 2400 valve cover, 4 screw carbs, non riser heat shield, non riser airbox, series 1 steering wheel, ect. thanks for the help