pallnet

This brings us back to R&D. This pic makes no sense...the bottom of the injector is not the major part to be concerned about. It’s the top where the fuel can leak out allover your engine and cause a fire that can completely ruin your custom or classic ride. Sure that setup will hold but, does it look nice? Is it overkill? This is in no way to compare my rail to yours. It can't be done! I have put many LONG hours into trying to make my parts fail in every way I have seen others fail in the automotive industry. Remember, I have to tell people why a part failed as part of my job. Another part of my job is some field engineering to an extent. Can I get a show of hands?? There are MANY people running or about to run RX7 injectors with SDS, haltech and others... this also brings us right back to R&D............. Like I have said to others and I’m not going to change what I say... " I like how your products look except for a few things" This in no way means that I condone your parts. Cause to be honest with you, if they fail then they are useless.... the same would go for mine. I did not draw attention to this pic cause of sealing issues. This is just a hole that is too deep. This is poor workmanship. I’m not perfect and I know this but I saw that one right out the box. In the beginning stages of my rail design. I will not tell you how to make your parts. That is your job. This is like I said before, concerns... This is not an attack on you Juan. It’s not. This is just presenting the facts about these O-ring rails. I have done my homework on O-ring rails long before you were making Z parts and selling them online... this is a fact. To be honest with you. The first rail I made was for 14mm O-ring injectors. Long before I thought of making rails for others. It used 1989 jaguar xj6 injectors. I know my parts may not be "eye candy" to some people but they work. My brackets hold as stated... my rails do not leak when properly installed. I brought this on cause of constantly seeing that people feel my O-ringed rail will leak cause, the brackets do not go over the top of the rail. I completely put aside the issue of my lexan spacers. Although, I was going to put all that on here and Zcar a while back after seeing one of your auctions and it saying something about your aluminum spacers being better then plastic. If lexan was to fail in the conditions our cars would put them through, it would not be used as windows of jet liners. Just an example... One would think that you having access to all these tools and making parts for the performance Z market. This would not have come up as an issue. DatsunBoy77 The bracket to the left is obviously not for mounting the rail and neither is the one on the right. Pretty much anyone can tell that. The one right next to the bung is the one. The "L" shaped bracket is made that way cause it's not thick. They made it from thin stock. Believe me. If I could get away with having my camera in the yards. I could flood this board with pics of rail mounting that looks very much like mine. Something i forgot to add in the beginning of all this. I don't want some people to get the wrong idea about all this. This is not about money or parts sales. I make what ppl ask for and no more. This is one of my hobbies, not a major income.. I can never have enough money and that is the rule i live by but, my chacks from work are just the right size for me to live comfy.. If you know what i mean..

The seal in the pic that follows is not intended for being crushed.. Look at ANY car that uses this style of injector, it is not crushed.

This thread is in relation to: http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=420855&t=420855 Does everyone know what I do for a living?? I am a certified Jaguar and ASE tech. Doe’s this mean what I say can be carved in stone? No! But, this tells you that I’m not just a babbling idiot that can type. These are a few questions for JSK with my concerns. Did you sell O-ringed rails to customers without hardware to mount them? Is that really what it will look like after? Is it a better way to make mounting brackets the way you did, as far as function? It looks like it will function with no real problems except a few. One minor and the other could be major. “Looks†as well as “how well a part works†is always considered in every sale of any custom part. IMO the mounting hardware is not appealing in any way shape or form. Honestly, you should do more R&D. Your O-ring rail is based off of the DSM injectors and as stated by you. This would be fine if everyone used only DSM injectors. There is a difference in DSMs and other 11mm O-ring type injectors and this can’t be made up as a later fix like a band-aid. Are you going to speedy sleeve your injector ports to make them seal up against other 11mm O-ring injectors, other then the DSMs? This could be a VERY serious problem. We’re talking about fuel sitting over an intake manifold that is sitting over an exhaust manifold. Many guys like the RX7 injectors cause they are 460cc N/A, low ohms and are very easy to find. Will your rail support normal running pressures with these smaller O-ringed injectors inside holes milled for the DSMs? Better yet, fuel pumps can build pressure sometimes double normal running pressure (32psi) if the pump is still running while the return is capped off. Will your rail support these injectors at say, 100psi?? All new parts that I sell are put through tests to try to make them fail under unreal conditions. That way I know for sure that they will holdup to everyday usage. After seeing what was said on hybridz in the thread about your brake kits, I feel that you do not do this. Although for the most part, I do like the looks of the parts you produce. This does not mean they work properly or as stated. There seems to be some doubts about my mounting brackets for the pallnet O-ring rail. In the pics below you will see a pic of a Jaguar rail that was in production from 1988-1997. My rail is based on the same principles of this rail, as far as mounting. The Jaguar rail is made of steel for ease of production reasons. The way my brackets are made, failure is highly unlikely. Either the mounting bolts would have to strip out more then ¼†of 6mm tapped thread from the rail. Bend the rail mounting brackets (not enough leverage). Or rip out roughly ½†of tapped 8mm thread from the intake mounting points. My rail mounted on a intake manifold. If this is not enough for some of you, feel free to take the link below copy this vid to your computer and watch. I forgot to mention that before i ran this test, i abused the rail mounting by holding the setup by the rail and shakeing it around like a ragdoll very insane like to try to make it come loose in any way shape or form. I also left the rail under the max pressure in the vid for more then a half hour. Vid link below. sorry, you will have to copy and paste to get to the vid. ftp://injectortest:password@68.63.18.210

Nathan i have SS hose on my engine and setup just like you explained. my new motor will be setup the same if not more SS hose throughout the car. sumping the tank, SDS and a few other goodies are on the program. ooh yeah. my first rail i made was for ford big O-ring injectors so, i have the tools and the know how to make those as well.

just made a O-ring style fuel rail that i will be putting on ebay. it came out SWEET to say the least.. here are pics of the prototype and the one for sale. the prototype in mounted on the intake. the one for sale has the gauge in it. i figured i would make these now cause, everyone is changing over to import O-ring style injectors.

they are not plastic. they are aluminum, i painted them red to match my engine colors. 75-76 maybe 77 Z's had them.

i don't remember what one i bought. i wanna say it was for a civic or something like that. does not really matter anyways. i had to heat it up and cut to get it to fit. i charge $125.00 for a barbed rail with a guality liquid filled gauge on it.

i make and sell them as well. i don't sell on a large volume cause, i do them in my spare time. link to my pics below. http://groups.msn.com/monkeysphotos/myprojects.msnw?Page=1

i have them on the front of my car. i had first put them on all 4 corners but, the rear was too low so, i put the old upper mounts back on. with my car being as low as it is, i still need a little more adjustment. i have only one complaint but, this will be the same with other camber adjustments. it's hard to make adjustments on the alighnment rack unless you lift the car. adjust, lower the car. check the camber and caster again to see where your at. sometimes, you have to do this like a handfull of times to get it as close to being right as you can. the product is good and lowers the car like .5"-1" from the mount alone..

yeah, it was a N/A. the rear mount is brand new. as a matter of fact, i'm putting the mount on ebay.. i have no use for it. so, that tells me that they opped for the LSD when they found one.. wwhhoo hhoooo i have another LSD!!!!..

ok, i did a few checks on it and YES!! it is a clutch LSD. i put a wrench on each stub shaft to bind them. the clutch locked right away. no play what so ever.. both shafts lock right away. there is no metal on the drain plug magnet. looks like this might be a keeper. i regret selling the other one. as much as i wanted to keep it. i needed some quick cash.

i ran a search and found a few pics. there was one that i'm looking for that has both side by side basicly and that is the one i can't find. i have a question though.. did the 300ZX open diffs have a carrier that looked like the clutch type?? i have seen the open ones and i have had 2 LSD clutch types and i know the carrier is squareish looking without the big hole to see the spider gears. i found a diff in a yard today in a 88 ZX not turbo. it has the finned cover and that made me pull the diff out the car. i opened it in the yard to be sure and it looks like a clutch LSD. only thing is in the yard when i turned the drive shaft both wheels turned, when i turned one wheel both turned (in the same direction) now, i have the cover off and stabbed in a couple of stubs in it at the house. one turns one way and the other turns the other way. it has no fluid in it at this time. will i need to create some binding on one side to make the clutches engage?? i'm going outside to take a pic of the inside of this thing to be sure. it really looks like the real thing. if so, it just goes to show ya that you can get a LSD out of a N/A. us Z nuts are swapping them into our cars fellas.. i try to look at all Z's for things like this.. be back in about a hour or so with a pic or two.. thanks pallnet

can not be plugged. look to the race cars for this one fellas. they use a breather tank and have the crankcase breather and the valve cover breathers run to the tank located on the fender well of firewall. call summit or jegs. they can help.. pallnet

cool, so how much are we talking about ?

what kind of price are we looking at on it.. ooh yeah.. very fine looking work.. noway to make it 3" all the ay without the taper?

i have no plans for the swap anytime soon. the money is not that big of an issue. nore is the time and fabing parts to work. just nor ready to do it. i'm still working on pulling power from the L28's. it's fun... the writeup was very informative and i do mean VERY. good writeup and thanks..

i have a set of them in the garage. i'm missing a few of the studs. i have to make them, no biggy. they are thin and one of your stock studs needs to be pressed out and a longer one needs to be pressed in in each hub.this stud goes through the adapter and the wheel to be secured by both a small lug nut under the wheel and the wheel lug nut in the wheel. i hope i explained this right. kinda hard to do so without seeing what i'm talking about. they appear to be very strong and i like the idea of one stud going completely through both the adapter and the wheel with 2 lugs securing that stud.

make sure the TPS is adjusted properly as per the manual. i know i remove the TPS for cleaning when i put them on ebay or sell to ppl. and if you were to buy one of mine, you will have to reset the TPS when you install it on the car. some ppl use the flap adjustment screw to set the base idle and some use the aidle adjustment on the side of the intake of the ZX's. that is why i don't even bother setting it. most ppl who do the conversion will have to reset it anyways. see if that works for you.. good luck.. pallnet

i know the car very well. a handfull of my tools have graced that engine bay. i installed a flow tested and cleand set of injectors from my private stock, on that car when gabe came over before you bought it. very clean car with no problems (after he left my garage) i even went over to his house and installed a headgasket and manafold studs. again, from my private stock. that car took second to only his wife and little girl. it's really hard to see that you are having these kinds of problems with such a well cared for car. i hope you get these things worked out cause that car does not belong parked for any reason. good luck.. pallnet

is there a difference between the vac curve? does the 240Z have a shorter or smaller curve? thanks..

i have a friend in england. they cost me a little over $100.00 shipped to my door. i think i will be ordering a few more sets within the next few weeks.

i have a few. i had to make brackets in the corners of the window frame. good thing is, i can change up my mirrors if i want different flush mount mirrors for different moods.. hahaha jokeing but, it could happen.. well, the brackets make it easy. i know the body does not look the greatest right now. i'm getting everything mounted and all my holes drilled before i do the body work.

http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=4&i=113389&t=113389 it's a link to Zcar.com call me lazy hahahahhaha

not P79, it was N47 but different then the one on the 77-80Z's. i have not pulled one for myself. i seen to be pulling other part at the yard and not getting the time to pull one of these to see everything first hand. those are things that i know.. now things that i have heard... it has the good chambers. mate it with a flat top block and you get high compression but, managable. i heard this once that, the head is square port. i will know for sure oneday soon.

there is a guy in texas that's running this setup with a N42 head. he said that his compression is somehwere around 13 to 1. he said he has to run raceing fuel all the time. the car will not run off of pump gas. the name he goes under on Zcar.com is slingshot. sorry, i don't have a link to his site. i lost it with my other comp going south. personaly, i would think about the P90 and maybe shane it a little. good luck.. pallnet