pallnet

In my 11 years of working for Jaguar on the line, at the dealership working on cars day in day out, I found on most glowing cat issues it was a cylinder not buring the fuel (Ignition failure) and dumping it into the exhaust. This cause the fuel to get trapped and burn in the cat itself which makes it glow cherry red. This melts down the cat. Trust me, Jaguar had a lot of this with the V12 cars. A LOT... Second cause was clogged exhaust and backing up the system. Never a lean condition. Is there something I'm missing?

Maybe this helps. http://centuryperformance.com/torquerec.asp

I would bet that it's an L20 bored and stroked to an L28. Like you said "Japan road taxes based partly on displacement". I know that's what I would do if the block would hold. Your buddy might be right about the roughness. Carbs are such a PITA and even more when you have more then one of them.

Yes I know of the trannys being roughly the same internaly. The RB tranny's fall into the same group. A trade a guy a while back for some other parts. After him and I exchanged many detailed photos online, we come to the conclusion that he will be able to use the 87-89 Z31 turbo I had. He pulled the front section (Bellhousing) from his RB AWD tranny and fit it to the 87-89 Z31 turbo tranny. He swapped the bellhousings with no issues in doing the swap. All three of the tranny's mentioned above share the same 10 bolt center section. Now I'm not sure if the Z33 tranny's share this same 10 bolt center section. From the look of the case, I doubt it.

I wanted to see if there were any updates on this. I have one Z32 tranny, a driveshaft and I'm about to score an 87-89 Z31 turbo tranny before this weekend. Although they look slightly different, they are basicly the same tranny internaly. ?????????????????????????????????????????

Quoc Looks bad azz. You making me want to go RB.

You guys that are putting RB25DETs in your Z's and other cars will like this. Today I finished testing one of the prototype RB25DET topfeed rails. This rail is to change over from expencive sidefeed injectors to 11mm O-ring topfeed style injectors that can be had for a whole lot cheaper. The picstures below are pictures of the ptotype that points the injector plugs toward the runners. This is to run the EFI harness under the rail for a much cleaner look. I have the other prototype on the bench and I'm pressure testing it at the moment. No pictures of that one just yet. This custom rail seup is for the Greddy intake manifold or the off brand aftermarket manifold. It will fit a stock manifold but you would have to mod the plenum a bit cause of bosses and fittings hanging down from the plenum. http://groups.msn.com/pallnet/differentfuelrails.msnw?Page=3

Sorry not meaning to "thread jack" here. Hoke You scare me with the mallet thing.. l8 This may help you guys with installing injectors into a tight bore. Loosely fit the brackets to the rail. After lubing the O-rings on the injectors. Fit the injectors inot the bores of the rail with a slight twisting/rotating motion. Once you have all the injectors into the rail (Don't worry the bores are tight enough to hold the injectors in the rail) you can install the rail and injectors as an assembly onto the intake.

Get a set. Trim to fit. Mold to make them look like originals. Pop molds of them. Sell to the RZ7 guys. It's a few hundred dollars to invest. the payoff might be real nice. Just an idea..

Does the RB tranny and the 6 speed 350Z tranny have the same 10 bolt center section? If so then it may be possible to mate a 6 speed to the RB. I traded a friend a 87 turbo 5 speed that has the 10 bolt center section. He used his RB front half and put that on the 87 turbo tranny. All worked out just fine. If this is not the case then maybe it CAN be the case..

I second what Joe said. If you understand how the VLSD is made, you will see why I agree. Think of the inside of the VLSD like a torque converter. You need the longer shaft to turn the inner most part, this creates your LSD "lockup".

Mike I make a topfeed rail for the SR20 engine. So if your buddy is interested, let him know. Thanks and I hope you can find a good sleeper body.

L28et does fit in an S13. I was part of a project that the guy never finished. I may own it in a month or two. Personaly, I would do the S12. Go as light as possible to get that power to weight ratio up there. It will fit in the engine bay and most driveline parts are the same but, i'm sure you know this. Gut EVERYTHING and put her back together with the shell of a dash, have a chick make you a fake back seat with just foam and fabric. You know the drill. If you do it right, the engine will look like it was there from the factory and the car will be a wolf in sheep's clothing. Since your dragging and this is a car only for that. I would up the compression and overbore (not very expencive) to get power right off the line. Something like an 8.5-9.0 compression. You will not need a big turbo. The boost will come on full blast like a freight train at right about 2000rpms. 3:70 rear with a 280zx ( box. You should be able to find some Datsun/Nissan wheels that look right on the car and give you a little bit more meat in the back. Swastikas look right with the body. Kinda stock looking. I don't know if you can tell but I have been wanting to put an L28et in an S12... Good luck and keep us posted.

Thanks. Honestly if it were me, I would get the silicone hoses. I like the race parts more then anything else. Plus you can put them like you want. This should be a pce of cake with all the info found on here.. Are you putting an airdam on the car? If so, you will not see the rad hanging down. I have a ZX custom 4 core in mine and it kinda hangs down a bit but with the airdam on the car, you can't see it. I have seen other aluminum radiators where the bottom hose end on was pointing straight at the alternator. This is something to think about. Cause if you don't have that problem then your a big step ahead. Not to mention that this rad bolts up. Dave is a standup guy. Everything I see him saying is true to what I have seen from other installs.

I had 2 dealings with Dave at Arizona. Both were smooth as can be. Both times the parts fit perfectly. Although I didn't get a radiator, I will in the near future, that's if I don't get super lucky in the salvage yards. Dave is a good guy and his parts do what they were made to do in the way they were made to do it.. I'm a certified tech but even if I were a monkey on a leash standing next to an organ grinder, I could install this radiator.

Joel Dude, it's good to see you're ok and the cars are fine. Sorry to hear about your home having some damage. I hope things go well with recovering from the storm.

JOEL Man I hope you, your family, the Z and home are all ok. Man that bitch flood the whole area. This is not looking good at all.. Us here in Slidell faired much better this time around.

Yeah I was gonna say.... I rode out hurricane Katrina here in Slidell Louisiana. Trust me, it didn't look that nice. As most of you may know by now, a good bit of Slidell is in the lake now. My house survived with little damage and a few losses. There are pics on the web. Google search "hurricane Katrina pictures" You will see stuff that could make a grown man cry.. FEMA hasn't done crap for us and it seems like you have to have the luck of a horseshoe up your azz to get through to the redcross. By the way, I will be back up and running in a week. We are still haveing shipping issues in my area.

Oh, I forgot to mention that I will be back up and running in about a week. I can ship out but supplies are short. I'm working on getting more supplies in here to work with.

I will not disclose the maker of the studs I buy for my kits but I can tell you this. If there is a problem with the grade then a fist full of major car makers will have some serious problems. I don't sell anything without serious testing being done by myself and/or the manufacturer. Thanks fellas.

My family and I will pull through this. We're OK. The house and cars are OK although mom lost her Nissan 4 door frontier in New Orleans. It was overcome by water. Thanks for thinking about us fellas.

Did you try disconnecting the return line in the engine bay (With the engine off). Removing the fuel cap and blowign the return line out with compressed air? You should hear it in the tank with the cap off. You may have set the gauge a little off when you messed with the set screw but still the pressure is too high. There is something in your return system building the pressure. After you find the problem and get it squared away then you can use your new cheapy gauge to reset the one that came with the rail.

hahahhahhahahahahahahahaha

I can't wait to take a ride over to check it out after he get's back and settled. Joel, I would like to meet you when you go out there to BR. I go to our meets in BR every now and then (1 good hour from me). Give me a heads up if you go out there.

Clint Your RX7 injectors are the later ones. You want to check but I don't think you have to bore out the holes in the manifold. If I remember correctly, those injectors have a smaller pintle setup like the stock Z injectors.