pallnet

Go to the chat room. We can have quicker replies that way.

Sounds like your fuel pressure is that high. Do you have a tester gauge you can plug into the feed line? That would tell the truth.

OK let’s see if we can tackle your issues one at a time. 1) BRACKET FITMENT. The brackets fit just fine and there should not be a space if installed properly. The injectors should be able to twist. One thing to remember is that the brackets and rail is made to fit many 11mm O-ring injectors. If you feel that the brackets could hold your injectors down tighter, just remove the brackets from the rail and lock one at a time in a vice to flatten them out a little. This will increase the clamping force. 2) TEARING O-RINGS. A twisting motion is used to install all injectors into the rail before installing into the intake. The O-rings must be lubed with a silicone lube to reduce the chance of "O-ring swell". This is the best way to install my and other rails on other cars I have worked on for the past 11 years. You are 100% guaranteed to rip O-rings if you put all injectors into the intake and "jam" the rail down on them. You could also damage the bores and or your injectors. 3) LARGE PINTLE INJECTORS. This can be handled 2 ways. I recommend the first although it's more work. Remove the intake and bore the holes of the intake to 17/64" if I remember correctly. Clean the edges and then reinstall the intake. All will go together with the stock Z injector tip seals (Silicone lube again). A customer told me a second way and I do not recommend this. He said to remove the pintle caps all together and just install the injectors without boring the holes. He claims to have no VAC leaks. 4) OVER 60PSI AND HISSING. That right there sounds like a bad FPR or possibly the FPR is hooked up wrong. If you over pressure any fuel rail, you will hear noises like that. I do a lot of pressure testing and I have heard exactly what you’re talking about. For the other guy who asked, do not use the stock injector holders. I have sold many of this style rails. I have walked a few (Not so mechanically inclined) people though installs. I have also heard and seen many improper ways to install my rails. I am using the exact same injectors you speak of and the same rail on my own car. I used stock 11mm O-rings bought from a local parts house with "0" fitment issues and "0" leaking from the injectors or the rail. The rail on my car is the second one I prototyped long before I sold any to you guys. It has been leak tested to over 120psi. I do leak test others (One every5-6 sold) as I make them for quality control. Also I do test fit here before I ship them out. This is why most rails are shipped partially assembled and the brackets may look like they have been bolted down. If none of this helps you out. Email me with your phone # and I will call you and see if I can walk you through the install.

Check this out man.. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=9903&item=7981256825&rd=1

Yes I do make 11mm O-ring rails in 2 forms. Finned stock and smooth stock. They are very popular. Eamil me for a price sheet and pictures of my work. pallnet@hotmail.com

I have run 12psi without any problems. the air was 55' in my intake and I was running 93 octane. I tool around at 6.7-8psi and set it at 10psi if the air is in the 60's. The weather is changing and soon it will be 100' around here in southern Louisiana so, the boost levels will be low. The engine is has stock flat top pistons shaved this that and the other, a few tricks here and there. I'm running SDS, 8.9-1 compression and traction is a major issue. I know the boost levels don't sound like much but you have to factor in my compression..

Can you send me some pricing on porting heads. I have done only a few and it's been mild work, nothing to great to brag about. It helps that you have a flow bench to test with..

Pull the latch assembly off the car and soak it in the penetrant overnight. Then clean it well and work it over and over again on the bench. Lube it on all the moving parts with white lithium grease then reinstall. Should work great.. Good luck..

Warren is correct on this one man. When that stuff is mixed with a paste grease that is in the locks already. The particles are not aligned to slide along each other as designed.. Think about it.... I have 11 years of working on Jaguar cars (Certified) and have seen this often in locks as well as other parts of the car.. Warren has been working as a locksmith (His own business) since I was a pup...

Look to the quest vans. Ford was selling them under a different name as well. mercury villeger. The motors are the same but the intakes are shaped differently. The VG30 was also bought by hyundi (i think) and used in one of their cars with a different intake.. Search the yards with your dimentions. you will find a bolt up option, i'm sure.. VG30 was a popular engine for other car makers to buy.. Nissan made a killing off of it..

Looking killer Gabe. Don't let Ivo push you around.. He's so tough way up there in Chi-town.

I'm sure your onto something there Tony. Mine didn't smoke and when I removed it, it still looks new. It just couldn't hold the torque. Now the 6 puck setup I'm running now.. That is a totaly different story..

From what I have read and learned. The more compression you are able to run and get away with, the less boost you "NEED" to run to get very good useble HP with the correct EFI system.

Yeah I will be posting my maps and updates as I make changes. I'm still working on the map. I need to make adjustments to the tempature settings cause the weather changed this week to much colder then it was last week and I noticed the mixture changed to being kinda FAT. I also have to make a few changes to my map sensor settings, in the vacume ranges. When cruising I can run a little leaner.. I just installed a 6 puck ACT. Before that the stock turbo clutch would not hold as the RPM's came up. It would slip at about 4000 RPM's under a load. At the sametime I installed a SPEC aluminum flywheel. WHAT A COMBO!!! I will be buying the same setup for my other turbo build.

LED's in Tails is nothing new. I have been running them for a good long while now. I made 2 other 280Z sets of LED brake lights for friends and one set of full LED 240Z tails for another.

I have 8.9-1 compression for my setup. I have to tell you that it PULLS SO FRICKEN HARD FROM THE MOMENT "GO"!! That's with stock boost too.. Yesterday I bumped the boost up to 8psi after programing the settings in my SDS. I thought something was gonna break! the torque is insane.. I heard a "click,click" sound in the engine bay and at the moment I thoguht it was "ping" and shut the boost controller off for the rest of my trip. I was too far from home to have any real problems. While heading home and reliving my 8psi experiance over and over again. I realized that the "click, click" sound was the boost controller solinoid and not "ping". This weekend I will be doing some more tuning and setting the system to run a solid 8psi as my "low" setting all the time. At the sametime I will be setting my "high" setting to 10 psi and tuning for that. I built this motor with stock Nissan parts. Who knows how long it will hold together or how much boost it will take. I believe that the key my setup running so well is the SDS system and everything being balanced.

I have a good "B" box in my car right now and still trying to panout the deal on the Z31 parts. I do not have them in my posession just yet. I have a few motors laying around that i can put the tranny against to see that will need to be done. This is a back burner idea at the moment but not too far back. I feel that my tranny that's in my car right now will be nick named "The lunchbox", not too long from now. My new setup is putting out some serious torque. I will post what I figure out when i get the parts. Then I will post what i'm doing as I do it.

Look like I may be getting a 87 turbo 5 speed from a friend. I would really love to use it in my S30. This should pretty much remove all my worries about tranny failure for a good long time. Anyone out there done this before? If so, I need to know the details. I have a good idea of what I have to do but, all info helps..

I do not have the second nipple connected. When I test that nipple it's basicly open to the vent horn of the BOV. so I will be loosing boost pressure to the atmosphere. One of the issues with this setup is that that engine normaly makes high vac #'s. I'm getting 22"s of vac at idle and when cruising it's the same.. Most turbo engines make 16 inches of vac at cruising and somewhere around 20 inches at idle. This makes it very easy to set the BOV. Not mine.. I believe that the compression is causeing this. this makes it very hard to set the BOV to pop at the correct time. When i set it to open at the higher vac #'s it flutters badly. if i se the BOV to open and not flutter, it opens the wholetime i'm in the high vac #'s and this happens in cruising.

I think I need a few others ideas as to what this could be. First off here is the basic specs of the motor. 8.9-1 compression T3/T4 Greddy Type-S BOV SDS EM3 6E Running 5psi at the moment. This is what's going on.. I'm crusing and I can hear air escaping from the BOV. When the BOV pops, it flutters. If I loosen the tension on the BOV it will hang open alot more. The more I tighten it, the worst the flutter gets. The car will get into boost but I feel like it will get into boost a little quicker if the BOV does not open. I checked the operation of the BOV and it's in perfect working order. I bought the IC setup already madeup and out of a S30. I noticed that the BOV mount is right after the turbo and I thought it was a rule of thumb that the BOV should be as close to the TB as possible. Maybe this is my issue and maybe not. All and any ideas would be helpful.. Thanks.. pallnet

Wow KA24DET.. I'm sure you heard about the rod knock that most of them get. I do see alot of them in the yards. Let me know if I can help you locate anything.

I was wondering if anyone running SDS can give me there ignition settings. I would like to compare what I have to others. Thanks

Lookin good. I hope everything goes smooth on the rest of the install and the fireup..

I just finished installing my turbo setup a few weeks back and the stock (new) turbo clutch can't hold it. I just recieved my ACT 6 puck setup and 10 pount SPEC 240mm aluminum flywheel. I believe that if my stock pressure plate had more clamping force, it would hold. I will be installing the ACT PP and the light flywheel with a stock disk first. I do like to drive the car around town and to work sometimes. There is traffic on the way to and from work. I guess if the stock disk slips after this, then I will pull the tranny and install the 6 puck disk.. I don't want a seriously harsh engaugement but, if I have to then I guess I have to. The torque is insane with my new motor setup. Even right off the line. I look at it this way. I will be able to find my weak spots in the drivetrain. Torque, I love it!

I just finished putting together the same engine. I'm running SDS with 460cc injectors but only have it set at 5 pounds of boost at the moment. Well to be honest with you, at the moment she is asleep in the driveway waiting on a 6 puck clutch and 10 pound flywheel setup. The first time forrest and I took her out for tuneing. We realized that the stock turbo clutch just will not hold the torque. The problem starts to show right before I get into boost. Yes, the car is a beast even out of boost. The throttle responce is insane. I really have no clue how long the pistons or rings will be able to hold up. I imagine that as long as the fuel and timing is right and I keep the charge cold enough, it should last long enough to hurt the feelings of a few V8 owners out there. I have ARP head studs and am useing a victor HG. I know I will play hell if I have to change it later on cause, I coppercoat both sides before install. I don't want to have to change a HG on this setup just for a small coolent leak. I did notice that this engine likes to run below a certain temp. A bit over that and she does not sound right. I may install a backup electric fan for "just in case" the main electric fan fails on me. One on each side of the radiator.