waynekarnes

you seen em at home depot ? i was told that they are available at Lowes. i haven't seen em at the depot. checked at local ace hardware, none there either. i guess will have to get em through vic. how about the tail light panel ( exterior ) any thoughts on where to get those rivets ? i had em in the z, tail lights out, in the drive way, under blue tarp. think neighbor's cat got in through the tail light hole, things dumped over, nothing missing EXCEPT ... those tiny rivets. only have 2 left. can't find the others. was suggested, by fellow on line member, Lowes has em. nearest Lowes is 150 miles away. any thoughts, mail order ? i check msa, on line, no listing. thanks, wayne

on the front of the doors, 240z, there is a seal, looks kinda like a whale tail, goes on the door, seals the area where the door meets the body, under the windshield. any one know where to get the nails, or plugs, what ever they are, that hold that seal to the door ??? thanks, wayne

is this a new set up or existing ? once you let the key go, and it is in the on position, the electricity should continue to travel to the coil, this keeps the engine running. turn the switch to the off position, removes the electricity, engine shuts off. you need to find out, why there is no electricity to the coil, or if you have ignition component problems. as it starts and runs as long as you are cranking, i think it's the wiring or switch. unless you have an on board computer. IF ELECTRONICS< OR COMPUTER CONTROLLED< CHECK 1st B4 DOING THIS run a wire from the pos side of the batt to the pos side of the coil ( on eside goes to the dizz, the other to battery, connect the jumper wire to the side that doesn't go to the dizzy ), use an aligator clip, so you may be able to disconnect it quickly, if need be. this will by pass the ignition switch, a constant hot to the coil. crank engine over, if your other components are okay, you should now have spark at the plugs, after the key is moved from start to on. engine should stay running. if not, you have issues with your components ... points out of adjustment, bad cap, bad electronics, bad coil, ect. good luck, wayne

go to tire rack, put in the size of the tire, when it comes up, click in specs. should take you to a page shows, diameter, section width, contact width. a 205/60/14 will fit fine. i would imagine that the 215/60/14 will fit fine. i have konig rewinds on mine ... 14 x 7, with a 3 inch offset, running 225/60/14 on the rear, 215/60/14 on the front. no issues. at the wreckers, i have seen 225/60/14's on the 6 spokes, fit fine. looked like bulging donuts on the 6 inch rim. thing is, the 6 inch rim is a little narrow for a tire that size. you'd be at about the limits with a 215/60/14 on there. wayne

the rams horns are actually pretty effective in gettin the exhaust out. there is a gain to be had by adding headers, enough, that it is seat of the pants noticeable. thing is for the most part, headers are a pain. melted wires, excessive heat, over heated starter motor. melted bushings. the bolts come loose, exhaust gas leaks out. gaskets burn, header warps, won't lay flat against the head. they usually hang real low, and one ends up scraping em on every speed bump the car goes over. a little too fast, break the header, buy new ones. did you know, the shops won't sell you just the one side ?? yes, i have owned cars with headers. i love the sound of the exhaust hitting em, ain't nothing like it. sounds like pure horse power. really adds to the excitement of any car, pushing any kind of horsepower. i debated whether to replace the rams horns on my 72z with headers. eventually, i know that i am going to do it. and i know, that as much as i am gonna love it, i'm gonna hate em an equal amount. a smart guy would keep the rams horns. i have the scarab kit. the rams horn on the driver's side has been cut, tilted, and welded to clear the steering shaft. they still give off lots of heat. but, nothing like the way headers dissipate heat. try the rams horns, if you don't like em, you can go to the headers. i think, that you'll be happy with the rams horns. wayne

i have a fuel injected 58 vette. don't be impressed, my vette is awaiting resurrection, buried under laundry and such in my garage. the fuel injection unit you have is a 63 or newer. most of my vette books are hidden away at my mom's, or i could i.d. it for you. i fit was running, when pulled from the car, and you have the correct distributor ( they are mechanical driven off the dizzy), and all the build dates match, it has a value, somewhere in the $5000, to $6500 range. if it is a cobbled together unit and no distributor, some where in the $1500 to $3500 range. look on the web for Jack Podell. he is the wizard of rochester fuel injection. there are others, but as far as i know, Jack is the best. you are right, that F.I. unit is an impressive site. they provide, neck snapping performance and decent mileage. back in the late 60's early 70's, idiots that couldn't figure em out, yanked em off and tossed em on a shelf, in favor of inferior carbs. a buddy of mine, Dave Laverty, had a smooth as silk, jet black, 60 impala, 68 vette 327, bored 10 over, running a 64 fuelie on it, 4 speed and 4:11 posi. easily clicked of a 13.60's on the quarter mile at baylands ( fremont, ca. ), any time he wanted. this was in '74. used to tear up most of the camaros, mustangs and trans ams. this was back before the bloated smokey and the bandit, girlie trans ams came out. was something, 3 of us in that impala, he'd flat smoke a 72 trans am. guy in the trans am, catch us at the next light, staring that big impala up and down, as if he'd just seen a ufo ... LOL Dave also owned and restored an original 65 fuel injected corvette roadster. 375 hp, 327, 4 speed, red on white. beautiful car. spooky fast. had the stock hub caps on it. turned in the low 12's. he had a run in with the internal revenue service. forced him to sell it. basically they took his car, and a few years later, cancer took him. if you have the engine that matches that F.I. unit, you are probably looking at around 5 to 9 grand, if in good condition and all is there. that's for just the F.I, and the engine, not a car. cruise by the library or book store, look for Noland Adams' books ( my buddy Dave, helped him with some research ), you will find most of what you need there, as far as satisfying your curiosity, as to what you have. pick up a hemmings motor news, to get an idea of its worth. the last 65 unit ( the rarest ), i attempted to buy, cherry, just rebuilt, ready to bolt on, sold for $7500. the unit, the dizzy, original fuel filter and related chrome fuel lines. the 57 though 62 units, aren't as flashy, thus go for less, though the 59 though 62 units probably run as well as the 63 units. enough of my rambling. i too thought how cool a 63 - 65 F.I. unit would look under the hood of my 72. thing is, it would probably be worth more than my z

a little something for you to look at. this is on craigslist in the san jose, california, bay area. i do noy know this guy or anything about the truck. contact the seller for more info. Trade my '73Datsun p/u w/V8 for your car/truck or whatever?? - $1800 - $1800 (belmont) Reply to: kustomrivet@hotmail.com Date: 2004-06-26, 4:14PM PDT #####another update now my price is 1800 ####Update:::I am now taking cash offers and im lowering the price to 2500 OBO highest offer takes it, right now i would rather have cash than a trade. OK this is what i have and looking to trade 1973 Datsun 620 ford 302 5.0 v8 motor C4 racing transmission 8.8" rear end (i think out of a mustang) 4.10 gears NO SMOG Required ohh yea!!! i actually really like the truck but i think i am looking for somthing else now. here are some pics http://www.imgspot.com/uploads/datsunrear.jpg http://www.imgspot.com/uploads/datsunmotor.jpg http://www.imgspot.com/uploads/datsunfront.jpg http://www.imgspot.com/uploads/datsiunpass.jpg no reasonable offer declinded but im not really looking for cash but if so i want 4000 ####UPDATE now looking for 2500 ###UPDATE i want cash not really looking for trades right now but who knows try me anyway stuff im looking for: cars looking for running in ok condition but hey whatever condition it's in throw it at me also YOU MUST HAVE PINK SLIP I am not spending hours at the dmv trying to get cars registered.i have pink for mine so dont worry. chevrolet: nova chevelle monte carlo trucks basically almost anthing chevy mabye even an impala or caprice also buick grand national regal t type plymouth dodge or chrysler: charger challenger roadrunner superbee gtx dart trucks this is what im really looking for but if you have a car you think i might want drop me a line anyway. Also looking for a coulpe particular guns: springfield armory m1 garrand 308 or 30-06 and 1911 45 acp preferablly long barrell s & w .44 mag revolver like i said before is what im really interested in but willing to take offers on other collectable or cool guns. please only registered guns im not trying to make some crooked ass deal and i dont want anything illeagal. I cant think of anything else i want to trade for but if you have any cool stuff email me make me an offer it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests 34835678

MikeJTR, has me thinking of more on the fly engineering. buying the $140 radiator, to go with the taurus fans ( yes, i now have two. it was suggested to me, i had the wrong year. went to the wreckers got one out of a 91 taurus. slightly offset, unfortunately, it doesn't clear the water pump either ). the zirgo fan arrived today. fits real nice ( hand held it in place ). only covers a portion of the radiator, makes me wonder if it will do the job. 2670 cfm. 4.5 amp, 96 watt peak, 55 watt output. website says it'll work fine. there isn't a shroud, and i think that is what makes the taurus fan work so well. labrat, do you remember what the cfm is on the fan you are using ? is it a 14 or 16 inch fan ? i'm guessing, you are running the summit 2 core one inch core tubes. i am probably going to end up buying the radiator from mike, drive up to livermore and pick it up. meanwhile, i will try the zrigo fan. see if it will work with the 4 core brass and copper radiator. wayne

Mike, and everyone, appreciate the responses ... back in 73-76, had a 4 core radiator in my chevelle ( 327, apprx 365 hp ). ran 12.49 1/4 mi. was my daily driver. same fan set up as the z, stock chevy, metal fan with a clutch. no shroud. never got over 190 degrees. of course, heat wasn't trapped in the engine compartment. current radiator has about 500 miles on it. i have only put about maybe 20 miles on the car, since i've had it. car has the fiat syndrome. fix one thing something else breaks. i bought the z dead in the water, been sitting 10 years. V8 was installed back around 1977. passenger side head had cracked, valve job, both heads, flushed the block and the radiator. 50/50 mix of antifreeze. i drove it about 12 miles, pulled into the driveway, outside temps in low 80's. no real temp gauge, just the z dash gauge. was , leaning towards 3/4. engine just felt hotter than i would like it. intitially, when i parked, no coolant in the overflow tank. about 5 minutes later, coolant expanded, into the tank, no surge, no pulsating. so, i know it wasn't boiling, once cooled down, coolant went back into the radiator. i want to eliminate the fan. with the clutch, it sits about an inch or less from the radiator, i can't use a shroud, because it would bump the hood. with the scarab kit ( may be a home made set up, using some scarab parts ), the fan sticks up about an inch or so above the radiator. combination of the two, frighten me. plus, i want to make sure that the engine has adequate cooling. i need to get a T for the sender and put a temp gauge under the hood. someone suggested that $35 digital temp sensor from craftsman. point it at the block, radiator, ect. get an idea of what's going on. easier than adding the T and a guage. i've already spent the money on the zirgo, see if i can make that work. budget doesn't allow for replacing the radiator. but, if i can't drive it with current radiator and zirgo fan, i guess i will be forced to afford a new radiator. was gonna resell the taurus fan, but ... from everyone's advise, i'm gonna wait and see if the zirgo 14 inch 2680 cfm fan and the current radiator set up works. if not, as i said, i'll end up buying a radiator, hoses, ect. to go with my 2 speed taurus fan. what might that radiator sell for ? so ... concensus is that i don't need the 100 amp alt. ???? thanks again, wayne ... figuring this z stuff out, is a bit different than vettes, chevelles, and 55 chevys.

did a search and saw that you had used an olds fan. i saw one at the wreckers, has the 3 tubular 'leg" mounts. i almost snagged it, figured if it could cool the olds engine, it should work for the V8 in my z. i also saw it on a cadillac, with the 4.3 V8. i wonder what the cfm might be, there is no shroud, and the nose of the z, isn't real good at letting air in. you may want to build a shroud to go with that olds fan. the tauras fan works so well, because it has the shroud, funneling it through the radiator, as well as being able to move lots of air. i just bought a 14 inch 2680 cfm, zirgo, off e bay. also got the thermostatic adjustable switch. as far as placement, looks like i can off-set it enough to clear the fan motor. instructions are included to make it a pusher, if i can't get it to fit as a puller. measured, and it should fit, in front of the radiator, just incase. neighbor suggested, i run 2 10 inch fans. i'm not too keen on that idea, figured 2 fans, would draw too many amps. and yes, i'm looking into fabricating a shroud. i have read that, using a spook, or the msa air dam brings more air into the radiator, as well as getting rid of the lift ( 240z's are lighter at 55 mph, than sitting still ). air gets under em and lifts em off the road, need down force aerodynamic aids to push em back down onto the pavement. anyway, supposedly the spook or airdam, brings more air through the radiator, engine runs cooler. consider that as well as a shroud. thanks for the suggestion about the olds fan. wayne

bought the 2 speed taurus fan ... won't clear the water pump. looks like i need another half inch of clearance. running a harrison four core radiator. no idea what it came out of. you guys running a short water pump ?? if so, what braket do you use to for the alternator, so that the belt lines up ? thanks, wayne

i like that new sticker design ... a 1st gen z on the sticker, the hybrid z name and motto ...

oh, tell him you have the blue z with the flares. the one Alex posted on the mailing list, from the Rio Vista Hybrid Z meet. he doesn't care a whole lot for modified cars, as most are cobbled together. he absolutely loves your car. says if one is going to modify a 240z, yours is the perfect example of the way it should be done.

Dan, apparently Vintage air has a set up, that works or is adaptible for the 240z. Carl Beck, on the izzc is running one on his 240z. drop him a note on the forum z mailing list ( classicz.com ) list@240z.org that is the e mail address if you do not subscribe to the list, ask him to respond to your e mail address. you can tell him i sent you. he says that the vintage air set up works very well. he is running a stock 6. wayne

looks good. the side vents, off a trans am ? are they functional ? did you cut into the inner fender wells ? any ducting ? i'm looking to get the heat out of the engine compartment. i had a set of side vents from a 78 trans am, but thought, they might be too large. any pix with more details of the side vents, inside the engine compartment, under the fender ? thanks, wayne

John, the L88 hood looks great on the vette, i had a 70 LT-1 same hood style, i don't think the z car is wide enough to pull that look off. the Z/28 cowl scoop with a 2 inch height, would be the way to go. opening at the cowling for an air intake, would be my choice. some of the hoods i've seen, only raise the portion of the center bulge,i don't care for that. i would prefer the cowl scoop to the standard Z/28 size in length, height and width. not, just the bulge being raised. maybe bring the hood bulge up to the cowl scoop, ending there. eliminating the bulge, would probably change the character of the car, a bit too much. though, it wouldn't bother me, if the bulge were to go. as far as under the hood, stock mounting, metal reinforced, direct bolt on with latch mechanisms. if possible an opening similar to the Z/28, clearance for the cowl induction system. tabs in the rear scoop area, would be a plus. i am running a V8, so my wants lean that direction, Z/28 style cowl, all the way across, not just at the bulge, a functional open scoop, clearance for the air cleaner. were you suggesting, that you need to get $1000 for a fiber glass Z/28 style hood, to break even ?? what would the price of a decent paint ready ( gel coat ??? ) street car, hood with Z/28 style scoop, solid, factory, metal reinforced, stock location mounts, with factory style latch cost, out the door ? thanks, wayne

unfortunately, i had heard the same from the VW/dune buggy sites i visit. most times, it is the prep that caused the problem. not that you didn't do an excellent prep job, just that POR 15 is that sensitive. seems that there is an issue time to time, at seams and overlaps. the POR 15 doesn't flow into small areas, or there is residue left behind from the marine clean or the metal prep. i think that the POR 15 paint stripper should take the POR 15 and tie coat off ... it'll be messy ... http://www.prp-porshop.com/por-15-strippers-solvents.htm i used the POR 15 on my son's baja bug's interior floor ... it had no rust, just wanted to coat it ... i'm gonna spray bed liner over the top of it. on my 240z i used rust bullet ... i had bought the POR 15 before i found out about rust bullet. http://www.itkillsrust.com/phpBB2/forum2.html'>http://www.itkillsrust.com/phpBB2/forum2.html http://www.itkillsrust.com/ http://www.customrodder.com/tech/0309cr_rustinhibitor/ i am not associated with the rust bullet product, other than being a customer. basically ... wire brush the rust, get the loose stuff cleaned up, vacuum the dust up and out of the nooks and crannies ... brush or spray rust bullet on ... plus, the rust bullet doesn't require any special product specific prep products to apply, nor thinning should one want to spray it. if patching small holes ... scrub with wire brush ... coat with rust bullet, lay regular fiberglass mat over the just painted rust bullet. tap it in place with the end of the brush, until saturated, more rust bullet, more mat, repeat until comfortable. it'll harden just like fiberglass and be rust protected and preventive at the same time. good luck with the clean up, and sorry to hear of your problems with the POR 15 ... i feel for you, do all that work, to have it fail ! wayne

missed it while thinking about it ... will have to ebay or hit the wreckers ... i like the idea of the sable fan, it appears to be offset more than the taurus ... but, may just be my perspective. the fans i was checking out were, the 3.8 version. didn't know about the three wires, but figured, if has 2 speeds, gotta have 3 wires ... ground and two hot leads. when you hook em to power, one slow ... one fast ... do you remove power from the slow lead when applying power to the fast lead, or leave power on ? thanks, wayne

Mike, thanks, that info helps quite a bit ... what amp alternator are you running ? off line some one suggested to me, that i would want to run a 100 amp alt. if i planned on using an electric fan. do you remember what year taurus you got the fan from. when i was at the wreckers, seemed to be 3 styles. two where the wiring came head in to the motor, one with 3 wires, one with 2 wires. the third one, that plugged in from the side. thanks again, wayne

been considering it. as yet, no over heating issues, prev owner said no issues, but he also drove it for about 6 months with a cracked head too. i finally got around to cleaning out the cargo area, so i could get the hatch open, found 2 one gallon containers of coolant, under the carpet, in the spare tire well. he obviously knew something wasn't right ... i've no idea if i have a short or long water pump. i am considering running a high volume water pump, but .. part of me says, the water has to stay in the radiator long enough to get cool, if it moves too quickly though the radiator, won't cool. water wetter, will probably help. don't want to go much lower than a 165 thermostat, want the engine at operating temp. thinking about adding a 280z hood, for the thermal vents. i have the MSA aero kit to install. i have heard that kit, puts more air into the radiator, if true, i am sure that will help a bunch. sure would be nice if i could use the LS1 fan, found 2 of em at the pick and pull over the weekend. on my set up, i'd have to pull the water pump off, and still probably not have enough room for that. thanks for your opinions, keep em coming, wayne

does the taurus fan motor sit over near the head of the engine, or is it centered at the water pump ? i was thinking that the cmf of the sable would be the same as the taurus, and the motor is offset. i am guessing that, the fan in the center of the radiator is more effeicent, than the offset. do you remember what year taurus that you got the fan from ? the fans i was looking at, had the power wiring coming in from the side as well as head in ( from the engine ), into the fan motor. you used the shroud and all,as it unbolts from the taurus, yes ? how did you mount it to the radiator ? that fan and fan clutch being so close to the radiator, make me more than a little nervous. thanks for the reply, wayne ...

the new fiat >??? kinda like the spider convertible ??? fun to look at, but you wouldn't want to own one ? too bad, it's a good looking car. i like the lines of the coupe, better than the convertible version.

it's a rebodied mercedes. if i had bucks, i'd have one in my driveway ... not that i want a mercedes. but i do like the way it looks. i think if nissan had been on the ball, that's what the 350z would of looked like. especially since they didn't go retro like VW did with the bug.

STRUT ALIGNMENT LEVEL Safely get your vehicle back on the road after replacing struts, rack and pinion steering, or doing any type of front end work. Accurately restore the strut alignment to factory specs without expensive equipment. * Super strong magnet mounts on brake rotor, spindle or steering knuckle * Easy-to-read unbreakable bubble level * Camber settings from -3° to +3° ITEM 42496-0VGA $9.99 Email link to a friend http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42496 at harbor freight ... no idea if it works ...

i am running scarab kit, installed in 77. currently has thermostatic fan and 4 core radiator. have 4 inches between pulley and pump. about an inch between the thermostatic lockup device and the radiator. i was looking at some e fans at the wreckers today. looks like some of em have the motors offset, the mercury sable, for example. any has anyone with a scarab style kit, installed an electric fan ? thanks.