Daphur280

As the title states, need to replace my standard 5 speed in my 240z, not looking to spend a whole lot either, obv

Is that diff gonna be enough with the RB25det or an L28et?

When I went to automotive school we had similar deals from all of the tool trucks in our area (Snap-On, Cornwell, Mac), personally I preferred the quality of Mac and Snap-On, especially their specialty tools that were exclusive through the individual tool vendors. However when i began working at a shop, in this case Toyota, I noticed I wasn't using everything I had bought, and I at the same time after $10k in tools I still didn't have enough, I would recommend only getting what you need for where you're at. For example, we never got any vehicles needing SAE so I avoided buying those tools from one of them and bought them from Harbor Freight or Sears instead. Also remember, they're salesmen, they dont make money unless you buy stuff, so dont let them "ooh and ahh" you about some fancy stuff, just stick to basics, air tools, wrenches, sockets, grip tools, etc. Also, if you dont already have a box, keep in mind where you're goin and how much you will need, dont get an oversized box and then later on not use the space, plus most boxes retain their value (Mac and Snap-on) and dealers will buy them back at good prices if you need to upgrade later on.

Tony, what fuel management are you running?

or advantages? perhaps cost?

So I finally got my V-band flange welded to the downpipe, and I originally told the guy to go ahead and make a considerable reduction in length before the bend because the turbo sits back pretty far on the manifold (L28ET), well... when he trimmed down the length he compensated it for the reducer to the flange, the piece I had him add, looking at it--it appeared to be the proper length to clear the firewall. Boy was I wrong, When I had mocked it up it was well into the firewall and would not work. So I'm at a crossroad, do I: A)Take it back and have him redo it, and chance messing it up or B)Weld up here the current T3 fland sits and scoot one up closer to the center of the manifold (I've seen this done before on the cast manifold) or C) scrap and sell everything (motor) and get an RB30? heres a shot of the T3/T4 turbo (bagged) with downpipe banded to it

Is there an advantage to this rather than going with a non-hydraulic lifter head? This tompic has peaked my interest, but I have a p90a Hydraulic head.

Thread revival... <FT Student, PT Uniform Production/Shipping Management, FT Caregiver.

Can we get the pics updated on this?

I'm using a FPR adjusted at 37-40psi and my mixture remains lean and furthermore leans out at higher RPM's, could this be an affect from the FPR or from the AFM? I've adjusted the AFM in all sorts of adjustments both where the mixture leaned out and (in theory) where it should have richen the mixture but my mixture remains lean.

I have one, and it sucks, the welds prohibit 2 of the nuts from fastening all the way, and I'm unable to grind it down, so I have a hefty exhaust leak. I'm going with a t3/to4e turbo w/ v-band to eliminate this.

any news?

Need it for my L28et the KA24e throttle body didn't work out

Yes it was out of the blue, car was running "ok" turned it off, came back 1.5 hours later, problem began. I've adjusted the AFM a little bit to the point that it will run, barely idle, and barely drive, but soon as I give it anything more than feathering the gas, it cuts out or leans out. Everything is from an 83zxt Not sure if this was mentioned earlier, but I have a KA Throttle Body, hence the KA or VG TPS, I just picked up a L TPS and discovered that the mounting slots are wider than the KA/VG so I will not be able to use the "stock" original L28 TPS with my TB... Not sure what to do next either

Added 1/8th steel shim on cap, still wobbly if not worse...

It's either a ka or z31 but I have one of both.

As far as movement it seems to move regularly, however I've noticed with adjustments to richen and lean the mixture the result is typically the same once I have a "stable" mixture which is: lean @ from idle>2k rpms; rich @ 2k-5k rpms; and leans out @5k+rpms. I am using the stock AFM and ECU however neither are from the car from which I pulled the motor from, and the AFM was messed with prior to installation, but this has not prohibited it from running before. Additionally I have a KA24E Throttlebody with TPS. As far as the z31 swap, I'm no where I'm still searching for all of the wiring since I am missing the wiring for the IGN module. So the z31 stuff doesn't apply to any of this. My voltage appears to be fine, the only thing I've noticed is it (my idle) stabilizes after the car reaches operating temp, I do not have a cold start valve installed which I think contributes...

Will I want to put shims on the mating surface of the bushing as well as the rack mounts as pictured in post #10 ?

Harness? Did you swap out the stock dash for a turbo one? When you say "I've got a boost gauge" are you saying you have an aftermarket boost gauge? If so you do not need the stock boost sensor, just install the Boost gauge's vacuum line to the intake plenum.

I tried looking up in search for this issue as I saw a similar thread about a year ago but did not come up with results, so perhaps someone who knows of the thread or hopefully the issue, can point me in the right direction. engine: I/C'ed L28et Problem: car starts up w/o problem, however soon as I give it any amount of gas, it begins to cut out like its not getting fuel, but I checked the pressure and it is getting 36-40psi at the fuel rail.

iS it better to weld here vs the caps?

Yes all replaced, still wobble, I had forgetten to mention that I replaced the tie rod ends and ball joints when I added the bushings due to I was focused on the bushing parts, then following that replacement I replaced the CA bushings. Replaced brakes with Toyota Calipers and machined the Rotors, all new hardware too. I replaced the bearings when I did this too. I can actually see the movement when I pry the rack up (when fastened) from the crossmember and can visually see that it has play within the bushing. So I'm confident the issue is within the bushing or caps and nothing else

I wouldn't mind adding the steel strips, but would rather find out why its like that rather than remedy the problem, if you know what I mean. In either case I think I'm gonna go back to the black poly bushings I had in there previously, on my way to work this morning the wobble was much more severe.

I checked them both while installing, they are identical, which also has me wondering now if I have 2 passenger caps.

No it doesn't make contact with crossmember, however when i first installed the bushings i think it was in a different position before installing the first set of bushings.