Daphur280

So you're saying I should vacuum/pressure bleed the calipers unmounted from the rotors?

I'm starting to feel that ways about brakes and suspension, can't even figure out my brake issues, and having a rough time with customers' suspension repairs

you will need the 5 Speed shifter. I modified my shifter by cutting a bit at the bends in the shifter and mad a smaller angle at each bend and had them welded so I could still use the rubber boot from the 240z. Otherwise it might tear it up or pop it out of 2nd and forth if your hand is not on the shifter. Otherwise same D/S and mounts should work.

No progress, I let the pressure bleeder go to town on the calipers and I still have to pump up 3-4x to get pressure. Could this braided line orientation be causing some issues? With the way the line is above the bleeder?

As in bleeding through into the booster? If its not bleeding through it (the pedal) shouldn't move at all right?

Everything is oriented correctly, I made this mistake the first time I put on my Toyota calipers I'm gonna rebelled everything twice over and let you know

as in how tight/deep are the bleeder valves? Its been installed before moving, and I had pressure, then I bled the system, test drove, bench bled the master, then bled the system, then test drove again.

So nearing the point of getting my Z back on the road and I am having severe brake bleeding issues. Its a 73 240z w/ Toyota S12+ (non vented), '85ish Maxima rear brakes with DatsunPartsLLC brackets, and 15/16 Master Cylinder, and braided lines front and rear. Calipers and master cylinder were good prior to install. In a hurry (because I was moving) I put the master cylinder, bled the system and actually had pressure throughout the system, it was loaded onto a flatbed and towed to where I'm at now. I finished installing the e-brake, ran the car and I have squishy pedal, no pressure or brakes until I pump the brake pedal 3 times. I pulled the Z back in the garage and noticed upon the 3rd or 4th brake pedal pump and on it would "hiss" at the last inch of pushing the pedal. I bench bled the MC, re-bled the system, and still the same story, no pressure until I pump the brakes in rapid sequence and on the 3rd or 4th press. Also I'm noticing when I bleed the rear brakes I'm barely getting any fluid coming out, or at least no where as near as much as I do in the front. I have no signs of leaking anywhere (lines, brakes, distribution blocks, MC, booster), and I am at a loss. I'm considering taking it to a brake shop and have them bleed it with a brake flusher (so it bleeds all 4 corners at the same time). But I'm on a budget and would rather save the $$. Any ideas?

pm'ed

yes I've weighed 280 at one point and had a 230ish guy with me in mine

Not really sure where I want to place my switches just yet, I was thinking on the center console between the two pockets on the angled section. Anyone else do the same or place them elsewhere? Please post pics too.

Thanks I'll give that a try

Similarly to this post: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113455-internal-wastegate-t3t4-woes/ I am running into a similar issue. My lever arm was at a funky angle, so I attempted to "clock" the turbo to get the appropriate angle, in addition the inlet was pointing straight out into the inner fender, so I needed to clock the angle to install the piping. Once it was clocked where I needed it the lever arm is out of reach from the flapper assembly. Its at the correct angle from the flapper, so that its 90 deg. but its about 1" off. So can I adjust the lever arm (unscrew) so that it reaches or leave it be and figure something else out? Also, should I be concerned about the housing touching the manifold?

I have the same turbo (not yet installed) I'll see if I have the same issue

So I've done several google searches and have come up empty handed, i know there are a few members who have 88-89 Z31 goods on their l28et, can anyone point me in their direction?

I see a lot of them on japan Z's, probably something offered through some vendor over there. Try "Works" http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k157217635

Yeah I have combed through those over the years especially the pinned thread on z31 ECU/MAF/chopper wheel to 280zxt, I'm looking for--if anyone has done a similar or exact install as I am about to.

So I'm finally getting around to putting the Z31 goodies into my 240z, Currently have an '83 L28et in it. Putting this out there before any mentions the phrase "Use the Search" - "z31" "ecu" "MAF" does not come up because its less than 4 characters. So I have the complete harness which I intend to use, an 89 N/A z31 ecu, the JW dropping resistors, MAF, chopper wheel and dizzy. I believe I have everything needed other than sense of direction. I was simply gonna start wiring things from the z31 harness to all the components: sensors, dizzy, injectors, etc. A bit of the confusion comes in from wiring the fuel pump. From my understanding from the Z31 ecu on 280zxt thread, the pump is wired differently. However my fuel pump and pump relay are wired independently from the 280zxt wiring harness in my 240z. I've wired it to direct 12v and a switch. Also looking for other things that can be removed from the z31 harness (I think I read that somewhere if being wired into a 240z). Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Pics?

any updates?

Did you get the svx diff to work in the Z?

lazy lol

So I may be going with 15x10s +0 on rear with 1.5" spacers all should be good right?

picked up "American" rotors, there 11"

I'm leaning that way too, I just have to figure out how I'm gonna find new rotors.